About me

I’m a Czech girl from the Eastern part of the country. I moved to Prague to attend University and, after a few years spent abroad, have made it my official base. It’s been more than a decade now since I’ve called Prague home.

Veronika Primm at the Old Town Square Prague
The writer enjoys Old Town Square @ Veronika Primm / Lonely Planet

When I want to get out of the city… I can do so easily by just visiting the suburban parts of Prague. The large nature reserves there, such as the Prokopské údolí or Divoká Šárka provide enough respite from the city and always recharge my batteries. 

A typical weekend involves… a good late brunch in one of my favourite places such as SmetanaQ Bistro by the Vltava River, or maybe a small neighbourhood café called Mezi srnky where table-sharing is encouraged, or a taste of Vietnam at Caféfin. Then it’s on to an event or two, because there’s always something happening in Prague. I like the hangout spot Kasárna Karlín, revived from former military barracks. I also like a stroll through the park, usually Havlíčkovy sady with its artificial grottoes, followed by a relaxing evening, perhaps with a movie at one of the smaller cinemas such as the Kino Pilotů in Vršovice. It has a good bar which is ideal for when the movie you’ve just watched brings out the need for a hearty discussion.

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Kasarna Karlin, former military barracks Prague
The writer likes to hang out at the Kasarna Karlin on the weekends and roam through the district © Veronika Primm / Lonely Planet

When I need to relax… I go to a Prague quarter, an area I don’t pass through on a day-to-day basis and stroll in random directions, often ending up in parks and cafés. The Karlín district is great for this. The small park, Kaizlovy sady is lined on one side with pastel-colored houses and is usually quite empty apart from a few dog walkers. I like to conclude my walk in the nearby Můj šálek kávy café or at Bistro Proti Proudu.

When I’m looking for a cheap eat… I often head to Loving Hut, a chain of vegan buffet-style restaurants, where you can help yourself to a healthy plate of food and pay by its weight. Otherwise, the key to a cheap bite in Prague is to make use of daily lunch menus. That way, you can get a good meal for only 100-150 CZK.

My go-to foodie spots… are mostly in the Vinohrady district, since it’s so rich in diverse cuisine. The recent addition of ramen joints proves that even further. The new Bon Ramen off the Náměstí míru Square is one of my favorites. For Indonesian cuisine, I love Javánka Bistro just around the corner from my apartment. Bruxx on Náměstí míru brings the flavours of Belgium to Prague and is an excellent fit for special occasions. When I feel like having real Czech cuisine, there are many great restaurants to choose from – e.g. Kravín, Vinohradský Parlament or Máchova never disappoint. 

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The Charles Bridge in Prague ending at the bridge towers
There are so many great sights to see in Prague, its fun to go to the big ones with visitors © Joe Daniel Price / Getty Images

When I have friends in town… I show them the top sights first, taking tram no. 22 to the Prague Castle, crossing the Charles Bridge and strolling all the way to the Old Town Square to admire the Astronomical Clock. I like to show them also the lesser-known areas of Prague such as the New World Quarter just off the Prague Castle and the hilltop Vyšehrad Citadel.

My favorite place to see the sunset… is the Letná Park, because you get to see the sun setting above the city, which looks absolutely magical.

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Three hands hold cinnamon rolls topped with ice cream with the Prague skyline in the backgroudn
Try one of the many delicious desserts in Prague © Alexander Spatari / Getty Images

When I’m looking for something sweet… I always know where to look. For a bit of a traditional sweet treat from my childhood, I swear by the indiánek, a local dessert made out of mousse covered in chocolate and resting on a small sponge cake. But the trick is – the mousse has to be pink! At least that’s how I remember it from my childhood. Nowadays, most indianek’s are white inside. For the real old school one, I go to Libeřské lahůdky by the tram stop Vodičkova in the New Town. They even have them in two sizes.

For a modern and even more decadent sweet tooth, I go for the Czech version of Cronut – the Crobliha (Croissant + Kobliha). Oh Deer Bakery is the only place to get it. Its owner, who developed the recipe himself, has recently opened a new shop near the Národní třída tram stop, making it a little too easy to succumb to sweet cravings.

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A red and white tram drives down a road with white buildings behind
The tram in Prague makes it so easy to get around © Serr Novick / Getty Images

One of the best things about Prague… is how easy it is to get around. The city centre is quite compact, so you can even walk everywhere. The public transport network is dense and works well. I especially love riding on trams since you can just zone out as you ride along and stare out of the window without a care in the world. It’s somewhat therapeutic.

The best time to be in Prague is… anytime outside the summer peak season, pre-Christmas time and Easter. Truth to be told, Prague is magical at any time of the year, in the peak months you just need to get more creative if you want to avoid crowds. I like late September, early October – it’s time when the Indian summer often makes an appearance, the afternoons can still get balmy warm, yet the crowds have mostly left.

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