Tucked away besides an anonymous fishing village on the banks of the river, the Wildlife Conservation Society-sponsored dolphin community lodge is doing pioneering work in protecting one of the most endangered animals in Myanmar – the Irrawaddy dolphin.
The lodge’s WCS adviser Thant Zin, runs the project based on three guiding principles. “First, we need to protect the dolphins from any kind of threat, so that the population can grow,” he said. Pollution, river traffic, and indiscriminate fishing techniques – including the use of car batteries - have pushed the Irrawaddy dolphin to the very brink. These days a 74km stretch of the river is officially protected, with stern punishments meted out for repeat offenders (half a dozen fisherman were recently handed jail sentences). As a result, there’s now a stable population of 72 – almost double the population from fifteen years ago.
“Second, we want to preserve the cooperative fishing culture that exists between the dolphins, and the fisherman.” This culture revolves around a centuries-old tradition whereby fishermen use a series of tapping sounds and vocal techniques that allow them to communicate directly with the dolphins. The dolphins then herd the fish towards the fishing boats, flip their tails out of the water to indicate where the fisherman should cast their nets, and feast on the overspill from the catch. It’s one of those things where you’ve got to see it to believe it, and even then, your jaw is guaranteed to hit the deck.
“Third, we make sure that what we do benefits the whole community.” This is no hollow platitude. The passenger boats, the chefs who cook your meals and, of course, the cooperative fisherman themselves, are all part of the local fishing community. Everybody benefits. It enables the locals to preserve their culture while at the same time providing travellers with a unique and unforgettable experience. The biggest beneficiaries of all, though, are the dolphins.
Until recently their future in the river that bears their name looked very bleak indeed. Now, finally, the tide has turned. It’s ecotourism at it’s finest. The lodge is a two-hour drive (or five-hour cruise) from Mandalay.
Words: Dominic Horner
