Platja Llevant in Formentera. martin SC photo/Shutterstock
Formentera, Ibiza’s bohemian little sister, is one of Spain’s Balearic Islands. At just 19km (12 miles) long and 2km (1.2 miles) wide, it is one of the country’s smallest inhabited islands, but it certainly packs a punch. It’s the epitome of barefoot luxury, where rustic beach bars meet hippie vibes and uber-chic hotels. Think relaxing on swaths of dreamy white sand beaches lapped by aquamarine waters and cycling down sandy tracks with the wind whipping your hair and salt on your skin. An eco destination, nature and sustainability are also central to the island, which is home to several marine reserves, protected areas and a natural park.
Plan your trip to this laid-back island with our guide for first-time visitors.
When should I go to Formentera?
July and August are the busiest months in Formentera, and the most expensive too. During this time of year, the island also fills up with day-trippers from nearby Ibiza. To escape the crowds – and the traffic – visit in spring or fall instead. Anywhere from April to the beginning of June and from September to October is a good option, with better deals and fewer visitors. Swimming in the sea will is possible from late May and even throughout September, so these are the best months if you want to make the most of the beaches.
You’ll almost certainly avoid the crowds in winter, but is it worth it? The Balearic Island Tourism Board is, in fact, actively encouraging more visitors during the colder months of the year. Of course, it will be too cold for swimming, but winter could be the ideal time to explore the landscapes by bicycle, on foot or horseback. With an average temperature of 16°C (60°F) in January and February and only a few days of rain, it’s perfect for exploring. It does, however, get chilly at night, so you’ll need to come prepared. Some of the beach bars, restaurants and tourist areas may shut up shop in the winter, so base yourself in the main villages such as Es Pujols or Sant Francesc to ensure services will be open.
How much time should I spend in Formentera?
Some people decide to just pop over to Formentera on a day trip from Ibiza, but despite its pocket size, this little bohemian isle really deserves more of your time. Allow four to five days to see most of its main beaches, take bike rides to its lighthouses, revel in a range of water sports and seek out its charming inland villages.
If you have a week or more, you can enjoy the slow life, really getting acquainted with every corner of Formentera, and even have time to visit its weekly artisanal markets and relax over lazy beachside lunches of traditional Balearic cuisine.
With just a few days, base yourself in Es Pujols, the main tourist resort on the island, for its access to a range of dining and nightlife whilst still being close to some of the main beaches. If you want a quieter area and prefer to avoid driving, La Savina is a great choice, within easy walking distance to several beaches and hiking routes. For longer stays, move between postcard-perfect Cala Saona with its incredible cyan-colored waters, the peaceful village of Pilar de la Mola and the charming capital of Sant Francesc.
Is it easy to get in and around Formentera?
The best way to reach Formentera is to fly to Ibiza Airport and then take the ferry, as the island does not have its own airport. The ferry takes around half an hour, connecting the Port of Ibiza with the Port of La Savina, and is operated by Baleària. There is another ferry that departs from Palma de Mallorca, but it takes significantly longer, approximately four hours in total. Keep in mind, ferries run throughout the year, but are more frequent in summer. There is also one ferry straight to Formentera from the mainland town of Dénia in the Alicante province, which takes around two hours.
Because Formentera is so small, most people choose to get around with a combination of mopeds, bicycles and on foot. Many of the roads on Formentera are not paved, so you’ll need to be comfortable riding on them. There are several rental places across the island.
If you’re traveling with small kids or those with mobility issues, renting a car is possible, but there are strict limits as to how many are for hire, so you need to book well in advance. Driving from one side of the island to the other takes just 25 minutes. From June to September, it’s not possible to bring cars onto the island, so don't plan on renting one in Ibiza and taking the ferry across.
Public transportation is not widely available on Formentera, but there is a local bus that travels to some of the villages and beaches. Be aware, though, they are relatively infrequent, and you’ll still need to walk a bit from the bus stops to the beaches.
Top things to do in Formentera
Admire Formentera’s iconic lighthouses
Lighthouses have become somewhat of a symbol of the island, even though there are only three. The most famous of these is Cap de Barbària, located on the southwestern tip of the island amid a rocky, lunar-like landscape – an ideal spot to catch the sunset. At the eastern end of the island lies Far de Sa Mola, an emblem of Formentera, which Jules Verne referred to as ‘the end of the world’ in his novel Off on a Comet (Hector Servadac). The last is La Savina, set between the flamingo-filled Estany Pudent lagoon and the sea.
Dive the biggest shipwreck in the Mediterranean
If you have your diving qualification, Formentera offers several excellent dive sites. One of the most unique is diving the wreck of Don Pedro, a cargo ship measuring over 140m (459ft) and home to a rich variety of sea life including moray eels, barracudas and groupers. Other good dive sites include La Mariana, El Arco and the Punta Rasa Caves.
Discover Ses Salines and the Reserva Marina de la Punta de Sa Creu
To experience nature at its best in Formentera, visit the Ses Salines Natural Park or the Punta de Sa Creu Marine Reserve. Ses Salines spans over 14,000 hectares between Ibiza and Formentera with salt pans, lagoons and marshes that are home to around 210 species of birdlife. Its seabed – a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site – is covered in psidonia (sea grass) meadows. The Reserva Marina de la Punta de Sa Creu, on the other hand, lies around the southeast of the island, also known for its posidonia (marine plants), where you can spot sea turtles and dolphins. While you need a permit to dive in the reserve, snorkeling is allowed without one.
Find your perfect beach on Formentera
Beaches are what Formentera is all about, and wherever you are on the island, you’re never far from one of its brilliantly white sandy stretches. Platja Iletes, located on the Trucador Peninsula on the very northern tip of the island, is a huge crescent bay lapped by turquoise waters with almost magical pink-hued sand. And just south of here lies Platja Llevant, a long bleached-blond sweep surrounded by dunes and rocky headlands, which is a favorite for naturists. Or perhaps Migjorn is more your style, situated on the southern shore, interspersed with rocky ochre outcrops.
Sample Formentera’s local cuisine
Cuisine may not be the first thing that comes to mind when visiting Formentera, but despite its size, the island has its own unique dishes centered around seasonal ingredients and of course, the sea. Try ensalada payesa, a local salad made of dried fish, potatoes, peppers and bescuit (a type of bread); bullit de peix (fish stew); and calamars a la bruta (fried squid in its own ink).
My favorite thing to do in Formentera
Whenever I’m on the island, I love to book a horseback-riding trek, enabling me to discover new trails and small hidden corners. Pathways take you down pine-scented forested tracks, through salt marshes filled with birdlife, or – my top choice – to the shore, where you can canter along the beach and splash through the surf. Rutas Es Boixets is a good company, open year-round.
How much money do I need for Formentera?
The island is generally considered to be one of Spain’s most expensive, meaning you’ll find prices slightly higher than in neighboring Ibiza and Mallorca, so don’t be surprised by the price tags. Debit, credit cards and payment apps can be used widely on Formentera, although you will need cash for some of the smaller beach bars and villages. Here are some examples of average daily costs:
Night at a basic hotel in high season: €200–400 (US$230–460)
One-day bicycle/moped rental: from €4/10 (US$5/12)
Paella at a beachfront restaurant: from €25pp (US$29)
A cocktail from rustic beach bar KM11: €12 (US$14)
Tapas dishes from al fresco restaurant Can Carlitos: €7–24 (US$8–28)
Kayak rental: from €38 (US$44)
Can you drink tap water in Formentera?
The tap water in Formentera is generally safe to use for brushing your teeth and cooking with, but as it’s quite salty, it doesn’t taste great. Therefore, bottled water is generally recommended.
What language do they speak in Formentera?
Formentera has two official languages – Spanish and a dialect of Catalan called Eivissenc or Ibicenco. In Formentera it’s also sometimes referred to as Formenterer. Although many people working in tourism will speak English or Spanish, locals will appreciate you using some Catalan words such as bon dia (good morning), bona tarda (good afternoon) and bona nit (good night).
Be a responsible tourist
Spain’s Balearic Islands have been suffering greatly from mass tourism, and over the last couple of years, residents have organized numerous protests. Formentera has one of the highest tourist to resident ratios in the world, so it’s essential to lessen your impact, not only on the locals, but on Formentera’s fragile ecosystem too. Travel in the shoulder or low seasons, buy local produce, wear reef-safe sunscreen and be aware of your water usage.
Reserve tourist services in advance
Because of its small size and popularity, particularly in summer, you’ll need to plan for your visit and book everything well in advance. This goes for ferry tickets, car hire, and most importantly, accommodations. You can’t just rock up and expect beds to be available. Booking ahead for nicer restaurants is also recommended for the summer period.
Plan with a local
