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Often overlooked by travelers, these provinces are an adventure, rich in scenery and tradition. Both were home to important pre-Columbian cultures and consequently the region contains many important archaeological sites. The provinces rise westward into the Andes, with some of the country's most spectacular highland scenery, punctuated by ice-crusted volcanoes soaring above 19600ft (6000m), accessible by tour or 4WD. It's an utterly memorable landscape, and one you should not miss.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Catamarca & La Rioja.
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West of Fiambalá, the paved road winds through the high desert, past picturesque red rock escarpments known as the Quebrada Angosturas, and into some serious altitude, topping out at the Chilean border. It's a stunning drive, with no services apart from a seasonal white-elephant hotel halfway between Fiambalá and the frontier. Los Seismiles are the peaks above 6000m, and you'll see several of them, including Ojos del Salado (6879m), the world's highest volcano.
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The spectacular rock formations and canyons of this dusty desert national park are evidence of the erosive creativity of water. The sandstone cliffs are amazing, as are the distant surrounding mountainscapes. You must enter by guided visit, arranged at the visitors center. The standard 2½-hour trip is included with your entrance fee. You'll be ferried in comfortable minibuses and there’s little walking involved; nevertheless, take water and protection from the fierce sun.
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This old cable-car station documents the extraordinary engineering and mining project that created modern Chilecito at the beginning of the 20th century. Yes, this town, like many in cowboy country the world over, was built on silver, gold and copper. The simple, picturesque museum preserves photos, tools (those mammoth wrenches are cool!) and documents, as well as communications equipment, including an early cell phone.
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The Inca ruins of El Shincal are located 7km west of Londres. Founded in 1471, the town occupied a commanding position in the foothills of the mountains, surveying the vast valley to the south. The setting is spectacular, with fantastic views and great atmosphere. The renovated museum at the entrance has a scale model and good background on Inca and pre-Inca culture, while signs along the way explain local plants.
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A network of stunning, red and white sand dunes rises from the desert floor 15km north of Fiambalá. It's best to arrive in the early morning before the winds kick up, as they can turn a journey of mind-bending beauty into a sand-blasted nightmare. But if you do get here before the winds, you can spend hours trudging up and riding down the dunes on sand boards, which is both hilarious and exhilarating.
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The focus of a visit to Parque Nacional Talampaya is this spectacular, (usually) dry watercourse bounded by sheer sandstone cliffs. Condors soar on thermals, and guanacos, rheas and maras can be seen in the shade of algarrobo trees along the sandy canyon floor. A series of enigmatic petroglyphs carved into oxidized sandstone slabs are the first stop on the standard visit, followed by in-canyon highlights such as the Chimenea, the impressive echo of which is a guaranteed hit.
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This 19th-century cathedral shelters the Virgen del Valle, patron saint of Catamarca and one of northern Argentina’s most venerated images. Her back is to the church: you can get a look at her face by ascending to the Camarín, a glorious mezzanine chapel with original tile and stained glass telling the virgin's story. It's accessed via a pedestrian lane and up a staircase decorated with more antiquated relics.
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This fine archaeological museum displays a superb collection of pre-Columbian ceramics from several different cultures and eras. Some pieces – particularly the black Aguada ceramics with their incised, stylized animal decoration – are of remarkable quality. There’s also a colonial and religious section. Closed weekends in January.
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This worthwhile museum is set in a wonderful early 17th-century adobe building, and has fine regional cultural displays. Themes include chaya (local La Rioja music), the Tinkunaco festival, weaving and winemaking. The guided tour is excellent if your Spanish is up to it.