A must-visit site in San Telmo, El Zanjón de Granados (elzanjon.com.ar/en-us; access only by tour at 10am, 2pm & 4pm), is a sprawling complex that reveals much of the history of colonial settlement in Buenos Aires. In the 1980s, local businessman Jorge Eckstein bought the building with plans to build a restaurant. The house had been abandoned for over a decade and was filled with rubbish. During restoration, which took 17 years, a system of tunnels was discovered beneath the floors. Originally developed by an aristocratic family who constructed the building in the 19th century, the tunnels covered the natural waterway that ran to the nearby Río de la Plata (the river was just two blocks from here in the 1800s). On his fascinating site they also have some interesting archaeological objects on view, including pieces of a pipe from Africa.
Across the road from El Zanjón de Granado is the enigmatic tiny home, Casa Mínima also restored by Eckstein. Keep an eye out for the green door and look up to spot the tiny balcony. It is Buenos Aires’ narrowest home, measuring just 2m wide. If you wish to visit El Zanjón and Casa Mínima on the same day, you can buy the combo promotion only at the museum ticket office. Tours only of Casa Mínima are at 1pm on weekends.
English tours are held daily. If you’re short on time, the one-hour Flash Tour (of both sites) is an option, but we recommend going the whole hog, you’ll find yourself wanting to linger longer if you sprint through.
