Kris Davidson
Southwest Gulf Coast
People who prefer Florida's Gulf side over its Atlantic one generally fall in love with this stretch of sun-kissed coastline from Sarasota to Naples. These two affluent, cultured towns set the tone for the whole region, where visits sway between soporific beach days and art-museum meanders, fine dining and designer cocktails. With their rowdy bars and casual fun, Siesta Key and Fort Myers Beach are slight exceptions, but even they don't reach the same pitch of spring break hysteria just north. No, in this region you'll remember hunting prehistoric shark's teeth in Venice and jewel-like tulip shells in Sanibel, a night at the circus in Sarasota and buying art in Matlacha.
Latest Stories from Southwest Gulf Coast
Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Southwest Gulf Coast.
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Ringling Museum Complex
The 66-acre winter estate of railroad, real-estate and circus baron John Ringling and his wife, Mable, is one of the Gulf Coast’s premier attractions and incorporates their personal collection of artworks in what is now Florida’s state art museum. Nearby, Ringling’s Circus Museum documents his theatrical successes, while their lavish Venetian Gothic home, Cà d’Zan, reveals the impresario’s extravagant tastes. Don’t miss the PBS-produced film on Ringling’s life, which is screened in the Circus Museum. John & Mable Ringling Museum of Art The Ringlings aspired to become serious art connoisseurs, and they amassed an impressive collection of 14th- to 18th-century European tapestries and paintings. Housed in a grand Mediterranean-style palazzo, the museum covers 21 galleries showcasing many Spanish and baroque works, and includes a world-renowned collection of Rubens canvases, including the Triumph of the Eucharist cycle. One wing presents some rotating exhibits and one permanent collection of contemporary art, and the Searing Wing offers Joseph's Coat, a stunning 3000-sq-ft James Turrell–designed 'Sky Space.' Opened in 2016, the newest wing contains historical and contemporary Asian art. Free on Mondays. Cà d'Zan Ringling's winter home, Cà d'Zan (House of John; 1924–26), displays an unmistakable theatrical flair evocative of his two favorite Venetian hotels, the Danieli and the Bauer Grunwald. Ceilings are painted masterpieces, especially Willy Pogany's Dancers of Nations in the ballroom, and even the patio's zigzag marble fronting Sarasota Bay dazzles. Self-guided tours ($10) include the 1st floor's kitchens, taproom and opulent public spaces, while guided tours ($20) add the 2nd floor's stupendous bedrooms and bathrooms. Circus Museum This is actually several museums in one, and they are as delightful as the circus itself. One building preserves the hand-carved animal wagons, calliopes and artifacts from Ringling Bros' original traveling show. Other exhibits trace the evolution of the circus from sideshow to Cirque du Soleil. Yet in the center ring, so to speak, is the miniature Howard Bros Circus: a truly epic re-creation at 1/12th scale of the entire Ringling Bros and Barnum & Bailey Circus in action. This intricately detailed work occupies its own building, and exists thanks to the 60-year labor of love of one man, Howard Tibbels.
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Edison & Ford Winter Estates
Florida's snowbirds can be easy to mock, but not this pair. Thomas Edison built his winter home in 1885 and lived in Florida seasonally until his death in 1931. Edison's friend Henry Ford built his adjacent bungalow in 1916. Together, and sometimes side by side in Edison's lab, these two inventors, businessmen and neighbors changed our world. The museum does an excellent job of presenting the overwhelming scope of their achievements. Edison, Ford and Harvey Firestone were dedicated 'tin-can tourists' who enjoyed driving and camping across America together, and exhibits chronicle their journeys and how these fed their refinements of the automobile. Indeed, the main purpose of Edison's Fort Myers lab was to develop a domestic source of rubber (primarily using goldenrod plants) for auto manufacturing, although he then went on to file 1093 patents for things like the light bulb, the phonograph, waffle irons and sprocketed celluloid film. The rich botanical gardens and genteel homes very nearly glow, and are decked out with historical goodies and period furniture. Don't forgo the self-guided audio tour of the estates (adults/children $25/15). Guided tours are also available from 10am to 4pm on the hour
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Naples Botanical Gardens
This outstanding botanical garden styles itself as ‘a place of bliss, a region of supreme delight.’ And after spending some time wandering its 2½-mile trail through nine cultivated gardens you’ll rapidly find your inner Zen. Children will dig the thatched-roof tree house, butterfly house and interactive fountain, while adults get dreamy-eyed contemplating landscape architect Raymond Jungles' Scott Florida garden, filled with cascades, 12ft-tall oolite rocks and legacy tree species like date palms, sycamore leaf figs and lemon ficus. A 14,000-sq-ft visitors center was built using reclaimed 'sinker cypress' trees, which had been sitting at the bottom of the Suwannee River for about 100 years, as siding. It houses three gardens, including a stunning outdoor orchid display containing more than 1000 different species. The Naples Garden Club has found a home here, too, and offers on-site advice, tours and programs.
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Baker Museum
The pride of Naples, this engaging, sophisticated art museum is part of the Artis–Naples campus, which includes the fabulous Philharmonic Center next door. Devoted to 20th-century modern art, the museum's 15 galleries and glass dome conservatory host exciting temporary and permanent shows, ranging from postmodern works to photography and paper craft to glass sculpture, including a stunning Chihuly exhibition. Note that due to damage from Hurricane Irma, the museum was under repair at the time of research, scheduled to reopen in November 2019. On the last Wednesday of each month, between 6pm and 9pm, the popular 'Art After Hours' allows visitors to explore the museum for free. To accompany, there's live music and free docent tours.
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Island Park
Sarasota's marina is notable for Island Park, an attractive green space poking into the harbor: it has a great playground and play fountain, restrooms, tree-shaded benches, a restaurant and tiki bar; and kayak, jet-ski and boat rentals.
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Delnor-Wiggins Pass State Park
This lovely state park and beach extends for a mile from the mouth of the Cocohatchee River. It boasts gorgeous white sands, which are protected during turtle-nesting season (from May to October). There's an observation tower at the north end, but swimming is best south of the pass' fast-moving waters. The beach is supplied with food concessions (at parking lot four) and showers, and has every item you might need for a day in the sun for hire. Afternoon winds attract kiteboarders and there’s great snorkeling at a reef just offshore. From US 41, take 111th Ave/Hwy 846.
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Lee County Manatee Park
December through March, manatees flock up the Orange River to this warm-water discharge canal from the nearby power plant. The waterway is now a protected sanctuary, with a landscaped park and playground in addition to viewing platforms at water's edge, where manatees swim almost at arm's reach. Calusa Blueway Outfitters rents kayaks (kayaks/canoes from $15/20 per hour). The park is signed off Hwy 80, about 6.5 miles from downtown Fort Myers, and 1.5 miles east of I-75.
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Marie Selby Botanical Gardens
If you visit just one botanical garden in Florida, choose Selby, which has the world's largest scientific collection of orchids and bromeliads – more than 20,000 species. Selby's genteel outdoor gardens are exceptionally well landscaped and relaxing, with 80-year-old banyan trees, koi ponds and splendid bay views. Art exhibits, a cafe and an enticing plant shop complete the experience.
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Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve
With more than 3500 acres of wetlands, this park is a great place to experience southwest Florida's flora and fauna. A 1.2-mile boardwalk trail is staffed by volunteers who help explain the epiphytes, cypress knees, migrating birds and nesting alligators you'll find. Wildlife-watchers should target the winter dry season. The wet summer season is also dramatic of course: at its peak, the entire slough becomes a forested stream up to 3ft deep. The nature center (open from 10am to 4pm Tuesday to Sunday) has excellent displays and offers free guided walks at 9:30am and 1:30pm. From Fort Myers, go south on Cleveland Ave/US 41, east on Colonial Blvd/Hwy 884, then south for 3 miles on Ortiz Ave (which becomes Six Mile Cypress Pkwy).