Mae Hong Son

Northern Thailand on two wheels

Thailand’s ubiquitous and scrawny scooters may not exactly inspire Easy Rider-style notions of freedom on the open road. But they’re actually one of the best ways to explore the country’s northern provinces at your own pace, while providing opportunities to leave the beaten track at any moment.

Driving past a Lahu village in Mae Hong Son, northern Thailand. Image by Lonely Planet

Austin Bush

Lonely Planet Writer

Top 10 must-try Northern Thai dishes

Think you know Thai food? Think again. Thailand's cuisine takes a different form every time it crosses a provincial border, and the dishes of Thailand's northern provinces are no exception.

Northern Thai food is a world away from the dishes you’ve probably encountered at your local Thai restaurant at home – or even in Bangkok for that matter. The food of the north is indicative of the region's seasonal and relatively cool climate, not to mention a love for pork, veggies and all things deep-fried. Traditionally, the residents of Thailand's north ate almost exclusively kôw nĕe•o, sticky rice, known in the local dialect as kôw nêung. Coconut milk rarely makes its way into the northern kitchen, and northern Thai cuisine is probably the most seasonal and least spicy of Thailand's regional schools of cooking, often relying on bitter or other dried spice flavours.

Austin Bush

Lonely Planet Writer

Thailand’s Mae Hong Son loop by motorbike

Tucked into Thailand’s northwest corner, Mae Hong Son province is one of the nation’s last frontiers for off-the-beaten-track exploration. There’s no better way to take in its mountainous, mist covered passes and steamy jungles than tackling the 600km Mae Hong Son Loop by motorbike.

Begin the trip in the northern Thailand tourist hub of Chiang Mai. From here riders can choose to travel the Mae Hong Son loop in a clockwise direction by heading south from Chiang Mai towards Hot along route 108 (an ideal choice if you're still building confidence as a rider), or anticlockwise via the more challenging route 107 north to Chiang Dao – you won’t miss a thing either way. The loop can be completed in a minimum of four days, but the more time you have, the better. Here’s our roundup of the best stops along the way.