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Hua Hin & the Upper Gulf

The upper gulf has long been the favored playground of the Thai elite due to its proximity to Bangkok. Following in the footsteps of the royal family – every Thai king from Rama IV on has spent his summers at a variety of regal holiday homes here – they in turn have inspired countless domestic tourists to flock to this stretch of coast in pursuit of fun and fine seafood.

A winning combination of outdoor activities and culture is on offer here, with historic sites, national parks and long sandy beaches ideal for beachcombing drawing an increasing number of visitors for the twin delights of an unspoiled coastline and the relaxed pace of provincial life. There's not much diving or snorkeling, and the swimming isn't all that great, but kiteboarders will be in paradise as this part of the gulf is by far the best place in Thailand to ride the wind.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Hua Hin & the Upper Gulf.

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Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park
This national historical park sits regally atop Khao Wang (Palace Hill), surveying the city with subdued opulence. Rama IV built the palace and dozens of surrounding structures in 1859 as a retreat from Bangkok. The hilltop location allowed the king to pursue his interest in astronomy. Parts of the palace, made in a mix of European, Thai and Chinese styles, are now a museum furnished with royal belongings. Rolling cobblestone paths lead from the palace through the forested hill to three summits, each topped by a stupa. The 40m-tall white spire of Phra That Chom Phet skewers the sky from the central peak. You can climb up through the interior to its waist. The western peak features Wat Phra Kaew Noi (Little Wat Phra Kaew), a small building slightly resembling one from Bangkok's most important temples, and Phra Prang Daeng stupa, with a Khmer-influenced design. There are two entrances to the site. The east, or front, entrance is across from Th Ratwithi and involves a not-too-strenuous footpath. The west entrance on the opposite side of the hill has a cable car (closed for 10 days each June for regular maintenance and a few other days during the year to change the cable) that glides up and down to the summit. At both, keep a leery eye on the troops of unpredictable monkeys. This place is a popular school-group outing and you’ll be as much of a photo op as the historic buildings.
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Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand Rescue Centre & Elephant Refuge
This centre, 45km northwest of Hua Hin, cares for over 700 animals, including bears, tigers, gibbons, macaques, loris and birds. There's also an affiliated elephant-rescue program where the elephants live chain-free. A visit here is great – far better than the elephant and tiger tourist traps featured on many tours out of Hua Hin. The centre offers full-access tours introducing animals and discussing rescue histories. The full-day option includes a meet-and-greet with elephants. Drop-in visits are not allowed. One of the most active groups trying to improve the animal welfare situation in Thailand, the Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand runs this wildlife rescue centre that adopts and cares for abused, injured and abandoned animals that cannot be released back into the wild. Hotel transfer from Hua Hin or Cha-am costs 200B per person and there's also a small lodge (per night including meals 4000B) on-site. Those looking for a more in-depth experience can volunteer at the centre.
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Kaeng Krachan National Park
Thailand’s largest national park is surprisingly close to civilisation but shelters an intense tangle of wilderness that sees relatively few tourists. It's primarily great for butterflies and birds. Occupying an overlapping biozone for birds as the southernmost spot for northern species and the northernmost spot for southern species, it's home to over 400 bird species. The park, except for Pa La-U Waterfall, a popular day trip from Hua Hin, closes from August to October. The wildlife-rich Ban Krang area has a nice 2.5km nature trail. Meanwhile, Panoen Thung is a stunning viewpoint up a 4WD-only road; check whether it's open before heading out. Wake to an eerie symphony of gibbon calls in the early morning mist at campsites at Ban Krang and near Pa La-U Waterfall. You can reach the headquarters by minivan from Phetchaburi and Bangkok, but be sure to tell the driver you are going to Kaeng Krachan National Park and not just Kaeng Krachan town.
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Cicada Market
Vastly better than the city-centre Hua Hin Night Market, this popular place 3.5km to the south is a fun mix of food, shopping and performing arts. It's not a high-sell environment; rather it's a very relaxed shopping experience. Many artists come to sell their handmade home decor and clothes, and there's food from Thailand and beyond. Live entertainment hits the stage from 8.30pm and there are buskers all around. The last green sŏrng·tăa·ou back to the city passes about 9pm.
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Wat Mahathat Worawihan
Centrally located, gleaming white Wat Mahathat is one impressive temple. The showpiece is a 42m-tall five-tiered Ayuthaya-style prang (corn-cob shaped stupa) decorated in stucco relief, a speciality of Phetchaburi’s local artisans you'll see all over town. Inside the wí·hăhn (sanctuary) that fronts it are important, though highly damaged, early-20th-century murals. When leaving or arriving at the temple follow Thanon Suwanmunee through the old teak house district, now filled with lottery vendors, for a picture-postcard view of the prang from the bridge. There are historical signs in front of some of the notable buildings on this street and Th Klongkrachang.
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Wat Huay Mongkol
Colloquially called the big-headed monk, this statue of the revered Luang Phor Thad is a beloved Buddhist pilgrimage site. The southern Thai monk is said to have performed miracles, such as turning seawater into fresh water, inspiring many Thais to travel here to pray. While the 12m figure's head and ears might appear disproportionately large, these features actually represent his enlightenment. The statue is located in a large park with teak trees and a lake, making for a lovely afternoon stroll.
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Ratchaphakdi Park
Standing 14m high and weighing in at 30 tonnes each, the beautiful bronze statues of Thailand's most revered kings tower over this park with an impressive mountain backdrop. The US$22 million project south of town was built by the military government after the coup in order to inspire loyalty to the monarchy. These seven kings – Ramkhamhaeng, Naresuan, Narai, Taksin, Phraphutthayotfa Chulalok (Rama I), Mongkut (Rama IV) and Chulalongkorn (Rama V) – from various kingdoms in what is now Thailand, were chosen to represent the most glorious periods of Thai history, and to hammer home the idea that only under a strong monarchy can the country prosper. There was controversy after it was opened due to claims of corruption in the park's construction, but the army investigated itself and declared that there were no irregularities. Morning visits are best since they face east and there's no shade. They also look nice lit up at night.
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Baan Silapin
Local painter Tawee Kasangam established this artist collective in a shady grove 4km west of town. The galleries and studio spaces showcase the works of over a dozen artists, many of whom opted out of Bangkok’s fast-paced art world in favour of Hua Hin’s more relaxed atmosphere and scenic landscape of mountains and sea. Be sure to check out the earthen huts out back, which shelter playful sculptures. Casual art workshops (per hour adult/child 150/100B) are available on weekends and the coffee shop is very relaxing.
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Pa La-U Waterfall
Pa La-U Waterfall is located in Kaeng Krachan National Park, but far away from the main park area, about 62km from Hua Hin. Unlike the rest of the park, it remains open in the wet season when it's in full flow and is especially popular with day trippers from Hua Hin. The various levels are seen along a walking trail which, while not difficult, has some rough spots. From April to July there are many butterflies.