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The upper gulf has long been the favored playground of the Thai elite due to its proximity to Bangkok. Following in the footsteps of the royal family – every Thai king from Rama IV on has spent his summers at a variety of regal holiday homes here – they in turn have inspired countless domestic tourists to flock to this stretch of coast in pursuit of fun and fine seafood.
A winning combination of outdoor activities and culture is on offer here, with historic sites, national parks and long sandy beaches ideal for beachcombing drawing an increasing number of visitors for the twin delights of an unspoiled coastline and the relaxed pace of provincial life. There's not much diving or snorkeling, and the swimming isn't all that great, but kiteboarders will be in paradise as this part of the gulf is by far the best place in Thailand to ride the wind.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Hua Hin & the Upper Gulf.
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This national historical park sits regally atop Khao Wang (Palace Hill), surveying the city with subdued opulence. Rama IV built the palace and dozens of surrounding structures in 1859 as a retreat from Bangkok. The hilltop location allowed the king to pursue his interest in astronomy. Parts of the palace, made in a mix of European, Thai and Chinese styles, are now a museum furnished with royal belongings.
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This centre, 45km northwest of Hua Hin, cares for over 700 animals, including bears, tigers, gibbons, macaques, loris and birds. There's also an affiliated elephant-rescue program where the elephants live chain-free. A visit here is great – far better than the elephant and tiger tourist traps featured on many tours out of Hua Hin. The centre offers full-access tours introducing animals and discussing rescue histories. The full-day option includes a meet-and-greet with elephants. Drop-in visits are not allowed.
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Thailand’s largest national park is surprisingly close to civilisation but shelters an intense tangle of wilderness that sees relatively few tourists. It's primarily great for butterflies and birds. Occupying an overlapping biozone for birds as the southernmost spot for northern species and the northernmost spot for southern species, it's home to over 400 bird species. The park, except for Pa La-U Waterfall, a popular day trip from Hua Hin, closes from August to October.
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Standing 14m high and weighing in at 30 tonnes each, the beautiful bronze statues of Thailand's most revered kings tower over this park with an impressive mountain backdrop. The US$22 million project south of town was built by the military government after the coup in order to inspire loyalty to the monarchy.
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Who doesn't want to see herds of wild elephants roaming through the forest or enjoying an evening bath? At Kuiburi National Park's hôoay léuk unit, up near the border with Myanmar and about 65km from Pranburi, it's almost guaranteed. Wildlife-watching drives in the back of pickup trucks go through the forest and reclaimed farm fields where elephants live. They're used to seeing vehicles, so they pay them little mind, making this almost like an African safari experience.
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Local painter Tawee Kasangam established this artist collective in a shady grove 4km west of town. The galleries and studio spaces showcase the works of over a dozen artists, many of whom opted out of Bangkok’s fast-paced art world in favour of Hua Hin’s more relaxed atmosphere and scenic landscape of mountains and sea.
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Vastly better than the city-centre Hua Hin Night Market, this popular place 3.5km to the south is a fun mix of food, shopping and performing arts. It's not a high-sell environment; rather it's a very relaxed shopping experience. Many artists come to sell their handmade home decor and clothes, and there's food from Thailand and beyond. Live entertainment hits the stage from 8.30pm and there are buskers all around.
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Pa La-U Waterfall is located in Kaeng Krachan National Park, but far away from the main park area, about 62km from Hua Hin. Unlike the rest of the park, it remains open in the wet season when it's in full flow and is especially popular with day trippers from Hua Hin. The various levels are seen along a walking trail which, while not difficult, has some rough spots.
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Hua Hin Beach is a pleasant, but not stunning, stretch of fine white powder lapped by calm grey-green waves. Remarkably shallow, it's made for strolling and sunbathing, not swimming. Watch out for jellyfish, especially in the wet season. By far the busiest stretch fronts the Hilton and Centara Grand hotels. Restaurants deliver food to people camped out in shaded sunloungers (except on Wednesdays when these are removed to make the beach beautiful for a day) and pony rides are popular.