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Taipei
Awarded Best in Travel 2022
Taipei is a friendly city whose allure lies in its blend of Chinese culture with a curious fusion of Japanese, Southeast Asian and American influences.
Historical Journey
In many ways this 300-year-old city is like a living museum. The Taoist temples buzz with the prayers of the hopeful; the wooden boards of Japanese-era mansions creak under the feet of visitors; while the treasures in the National Palace Museum date back 5000 years. Merchant villas to military barracks have been restored, reworked and now live again as a museum or a shopfront. From the heirlooms of a tea merchant to the memories of a cemetery for the victims of the White Terror, Taipei is a city that takes great pride in celebrating its history – the triumphant and the tragic.
The Weird and Wonderful
Taipei's oddness is one of its charms. It may be inspired by the kawaii (cutesy) culture of Japan, but there's a lot of home-grown humour in there, too. In the puppet museum you will find a strip-tease marionette; the idea of chocolate sauce on a steak is nothing out of the ordinary; themed restaurants transport you to a world where hotpot is slurped from a toilet bowl; and a park installation invites you to cycle a stationary bike whose pedals power an eerie-sounding pipe organ.
Having Fun with Food
Dining out is so popular that many studio apartments in Taipei don't have kitchens: eating out is cheap, casual and tasty and many families do that or get takeaway most nights of the week. Indeed dining out is the best way to understand the Taiwanese. Whether you're getting your fingers greasy sampling snacks at one of the night markets or sharing dishes at a Taiwanese rèchǎo (stir-fried) joint, the defining characteristic is the element of fun. Yes, that is an invitation to try stinky tofu. While you're at it, you might as well have some Taiwan Beer, too!
People-first Taipei
With its lanes of blackened walk-ups and countless shopfronts, the city may look like it was thrown together in a hurry, but look again. Great care has been taken to make it a truly liveable place for people: public transport grids the city well and is fast, reliable and cheap; every few blocks there's a park with a generous supply of benches, shelters and flowers; good (and often great) coffee is available everywhere; the MRT has courtesy umbrellas free for rainy days; and a clean and free public toilet is never far away.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Taipei.
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National Palace Museum
Home to the world's largest and arguably finest collection of Chinese art, this vast hoard covers treasures in painting, calligraphy, statuary, bronzes, lacquerware, ceramics, jade and religious objects. Some of the most popular items, such as the famous Jadeite Cabbage, are always on display – although check first that it's not on loan to the southern branch in Chiayi. There are controversial plans to partially or even wholly close the museum in 2020 for three years' refurbishment. The historical range at this museum is truly outstanding. Even within a single category, such as ceramics, pieces range over multiple dynasties, and even back to Neolithic times. Level 1 includes rare books, special exhibits, Qing and Ming dynasty furniture, religious sculptures, and a great orientation gallery to give you an overview of dynasties. Level 2 includes painting, calligraphy, a history of Chinese ceramics with abundant examples, and an interactive area with videos and a virtual tour of 20 famous paintings. Level 3 contains bronzes, weapons, ritual vessels, and Ming and Qing dynasty carvings. There is also the stunning jade collection, covering weapons, teapots, jewellery, ritual objects and the renowned Jadeite Cabbage. Level 4 was closed at the time of writing. Previously a teahouse, there are plans to convert it into more exhibition space. The classy Silks Palace restaurant is in the building to the left of the main hall. Also on the left is the second Exhibition Hall that occasionally hosts special shows. The museum offers free guided tours in English at 10am and 3pm (book online or register in person about 20 minutes before, limited to 30 people). If you prefer to move about at your own pace, try an English headphone guide (NT$150). There is also a museum gift shop worth exploring. To reach the museum from Shilin MRT station, head out Exit 1 to Zhongzheng Rd and catch the R30 (red 30), minibus 18 or 19, or bus 255, 304 or 815. It's about 15 minutes to the museum. From Dazhi MRT station take bus B13 (brown 13).
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Longshan Temple
Founded in 1738 by Han immigrants from Fujian, this temple has served as a municipal, guild and self-defence centre, as well as a house of worship. These days it is one of the city's top religious sites, and a prime venue for exploring both Taiwan's vibrant folk faith and its unique temple arts and architecture. The temple can get very congested with tourists; try coming early in the morning (before 8am) or late in the evening (after 8pm) to avoid the crush. Longshan is dedicated to the bodhisattva of mercy, Guanyin, though in true Taiwanese style there are over 100 other gods and goddesses worshipped in the rear and side halls. Matsu, goddess of the sea, is enshrined in the back centre; Wenchang Dijun, the god of literature, to the far right (come during exam period to see how important he is); red-faced Guan Gong, the god of war and patron of police and gangsters, is enshrined to the far left; and in front of that is the Old Man Under the Moon, known as the Matchmaker or the Chinese Cupid. As with most temples in Taiwan, Longshan has been rebuilt multiple times after destruction by earthquakes, typhoons and even bombing in the last days of WWII. The present structure (with elements from the masterful 1920s and post-WWII reconstructions) doesn't have the same flow and elegance as Bao'an Temple, but it is still an impressive structure with sweeping swallowtail eaves, colourful jiǎnniàn (mosaic-like temple decoration) figures on the roof, and elaborate stone- and woodcarvings. Check out the two-of-a-kind bronze pillars outside the front hall and the incense holders outside the main hall. The handles depict a common temple motif: The Fool Holding up the Sky. The western-style appearance of the 'fools' is no coincidence. They are said to represent the Dutch (or sometimes Dutch slaves), who occupied Taiwan in the 17th century. The best times to visit Longshan are around 6am, 8am and 5pm, when crowds of worshippers gather and engage in hypnotic chanting. Or try Guanyin's birthday on the 19th day of the second lunar month, or the weeks before and during Lunar New Year.
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Taipei 101
Towering above the city like the gigantic bamboo stalk it was designed to resemble, Taipei 101 is impossible to miss. At 508m, Taipei 101 held the title of 'world's tallest building' for a number of years. Until 2011, it also held the title of the world's tallest green building. Ticket sales are on the 5th floor of the Taipei 101 Shopping Mall. The pressure-controlled lift up is quite a rush; at 1010m per minute it takes a mere 40 seconds to get from ground level to the 89th-floor observation deck. Observation decks are on the 88th and 89th floors, with an outdoor deck on the 91st floor opened on some occasions, weather permitting. Don't miss the massive gold-coloured iron wind damper that keeps the tower stable through typhoons and earthquakes. In the basement is a decent food court, and the first five floors are taken up by one of Taipei's swankiest malls. For views of Taipei 101, climb Elephant Mountain or with beer in hand at Zhang Men a few blocks north.
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National Human Rights Museum
This former detention centre, court and jail was where political prisoners were incarcerated and tried during the White Terror period (1947–87). The English audio guide is highly recommended. These peaceful but sombre grounds include tiny jail cells, shackles, the old commissary and a row of telephones where prisoners could speak for just 10 minutes every week with a visitor. This museum is highly recommended for the insight it gives into the horrors of authoritarianism and just how far Taiwan has come. To get here, take Exit 1 from Dapinglin MRT station (green line) and walk for about 15 minutes. Head straight down Mingquan Rd, turn right at the crossroads and carry on past the large Buddhist hospital until you hit Fusing Rd. Turn left here and the museum is straight ahead. The museum is connected to the sprawling National Human Rights Museum on Green Island. If you have at least 10 people, you can book a guided tour. Call at least one day in advance. Some guides are former prisoners of this jail and can offer extraordinary insights.
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Zhongshan Hall
This handsome four-storey building, constructed in 1936 for the coronation of Emperor Hirohito, is where the Japanese surrender ceremony was held in October 1945, and later where Chiang Kai-shek delivered public speeches from the terrace following his four 're-elections'. On the 3rd-floor stairwell hangs the masterwork Water Buffalo by Huang Tu-shui (1895–1930), the first Taiwanese artist to study in Japan. Zhongshan Hall was one of the most modern buildings in Taiwan at the time it was built, and it blends modernist and western-classical styling. Note the filings on the bricks, custom-made by a kiln in Beitou: the design scatters direct sunlight, making the building difficult for enemy bombers to see (a concern as Japan had been skirmishing with China since 1931). The hall has an auditorium and frequently hosts music and drama performances. You can explore the whole building freely, even the rooftops, at any time during opening hours. Working from the top down, there's an excellent cafe, Le Promenoir Coffee, on the 4th floor, a teahouse on the 3rd, and a restaurant, The Fortress Room on the 2nd, where you can drink or dine on the balcony from which Chiang delivered his public addresses. Free historical or cultural exhibitions, often very good, fill the rooms and hallways throughout.
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Shilin Night Market
Taipei's most famous night market is hugely popular with travellers – and many young locals – who come to enjoy the carnival of street-side snacking, shopping and games. In 2011, the government moved much of the action inside a covered market: the food vendors were relegated to the basement, while clothing, toys and games were given ground level, diluting all the fun. However, there are still lanes and lanes full of food stalls outside, and they retain the original buzz.
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Qingshan Temple
Along with Longshan, this elegant temple, first built in 1856, is one of Wanhua's top houses of worship. There is an abundance of top-quality wood, stone and decorative artwork to see here, and the god's birthday festival is one of Taipei's liveliest religious events. Called the Night Patrol (夜間出巡; Yèjiān Chūxún), this parade takes place from 5pm to 9pm over two nights (the 20th and 21st days of the lunar 10th month, around the end of November or early December). Qingshan's resident god (Qingshan Wang; 青山王) is credited with saving the people of Wanhua from a deadly plague. During the days of his birthday celebrations, he sets out on a pilgrimage to expel evil from the neighbourhood. There are fireworks, gongs, lanterns and a colourful parade of people dressed up as gods, giant Infernal Generals, and other Taoist and folk figures. What makes this pilgrimage particularly dramatic and worth attending is that it takes place at night. The temple is worth a visit any time to examine the stonework in the main hall, the octagonal plafond ceilings (built without nails), the lively cochin pottery figures on either side of the worship hall, and the striking multicoloured jiǎnniàn (mosaic relief) work on the roof, which you can admire up-close by climbing the stairs at the back of the temple.
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Maokong Gondola
This 4km-long, 30-minute gondola ride is as much an attraction as a mode of transport. On clear days and nights the views across Taipei and up the lush Zhinan River valley are enchanting; on foggy days they are dreamy. The gondola has four stations: near the zoo, Taipei Zoo South, Zhinan Temple and Maokong itself. Paying by EasyCard gives you a NT$20 discount. If you're coming by MRT, get off at the zoo, turn left, and walk for about five minutes. If you have a head for heights ask to ride in one of the crystal cabins called the Eyes of Maokong Gondola. The floor has been replaced with triple-layer reinforced glass. Avoid taking the gondola on weekend mornings or afternoons. Take bus BR15 up instead and catch the gondola down after 9pm. Most visitors are with family and don't linger long after dinner. Note that during heavy rains or thundershowers (common in summer), as well as after major earthquakes, the gondola is temporarily shut down. The station has a small and helpful visitor information centre.
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Tianhou Temple
This small, atmospheric temple appears from the outside as a narrow, elaborate shopfront in the Ximending area. But walk through the gate and you'll find one of Taipei's most intriguing temples, a place where Japanese and Chinese worship patterns existed, and still exist, side by side. The original Tianhou Temple (devoted to the goddess Matsu, also known as Tianhou, or the Empress of Heaven) was built in 1746, and demolished during the last years of Japanese rule to make way for a roadway. The current structure was erected in 1948 on the grounds of a former Japanese temple devoted to Hongfa Dashi. As you face the exit you can see a statue of Hongfa Dashi to the right, while on the left is a group of Jizō (the Ksitigarbha bodhisattva) statues. Even today many local worshippers will pray to the Japanese deities as they make their way round the temple.
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