Taiwan's second-largest county is a vacationer's heaven, with beautiful rolling hills, dozens of soaring mountains over 3000m high, and gorgeous lakes. From these natural gifts have sprouted relaxing lakeside resorts such as Sun Moon Lake, sublime mountain retreats like Cingjing, and quaint towns with scenic railroads such as Jiji and Checheng. Nantou offers plenty of breath-taking forests of various climes in which to hike, or simply to enjoy cherry blossoms in spring or maple in cooler months; Shanlinxi and Hehuanshan are examples. Indigenous tribes were the earliest settlers in the mountainous areas here, and you can still get a taste of their culture in Nantou, such as at the Aowanda Forest Recreation Area. Tea grows extremely well in Nantou, and if you love tea, the flavours of fine, high-altitude oolong will likely infuse your memories of your travels here for a long time to come.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Nantou County.
Canyon
It's not hard to see why a 1986 rockslide that killed 28 visitors closed Taichi Gorge to the public for over two decades. The precipitously high, narrow and rocky terrain just doesn't allow for easy trail development. Kudos to the forestry bureau for the wall-hugging wooden steps and the thrilling 136m Ladder to Heaven (天梯; Tiāntī) – it's one of Taiwan's longest suspension bridges, and certainly the only one with built-in steps (to help you descend faster).
Forest
Huisun Forest Reserve, home to Taiwan's largest old-growth forest, not only offers lovely, negative-ion-filled hiking trails; it's a one-stop site for families looking to up their endorphin levels for a weekend. There's a campground to pitch a tent, pagodas and rocks to enjoy, and local coffee to sample, or simply stroll, admire the trees and try to spot a Taiwan blue magpie or two.
Taoist Temple
Dedicated to the Earth God, the carnivalesque Zinan Temple celebrates entrepreneurship and is perpetually busy, as is the marketplace that has grown around it. The temple teems with fortune-tellers and vendors of charms and votive offerings. There's a bizarre chicken statue with a hole that believers are supposed to pass through (front to end) for good fortune. There's another (bronze) chicken you can pet for luck – beak for wealth, breast for peace and prosperity, wings for a good spouse.
Buddhist Temple
From the entrance doors with their giant guardians to the 18 lohan reliefs, only top-quality materials and artists, both Taiwanese and foreign, were used to build this awe-inspiring contemporary edifice. Another highlight is the seven-storey indoor pagoda, which was created without any metal nails or screws. Designed by Taipei 101 architect CY Lee, Chung Tai Temple, with its colossal icons and massive halls, almost brings to mind a totalitarian aesthetic.
National Park
Located along the scenic Hwy 14 near Wushe, this national park is famous for its maples. The park ranges in altitude from 1100m to 2600m, making it a cool retreat in summer. You can walk from one end of the reserve to the other in about two hours, on well-developed trails with bilingual signs. You can stay overnight in the quaint wooden cabins surrounded by plum and maple trees. Aowanda has a visitor centre offering maps and brochures in English.
Farm
An operating tea farm that's also a showcase for the reinstatement of tea shrubs to Sun Moon Lake. The speciality here is Assam black tea, introduced by the Japanese from India. In its heyday, this factory had over 200 workers, but it was forced to close down in the early 2000s due to farmers' preference for cultivating the more lucrative betel nut. A handful of veteran workers persisted and began growing organic Assam; they also turned the factory into a tourist attraction.
Forest
The forest-resort area known as Shanlinxi Forest Recreation Area (literally, Sun Link Sea FRA) has waterfalls, cherry blossoms in spring, and maple in autumn. It is less developed and has fewer tourists than the more popular Sitou to its north, and offers long hikes away from the crowds. There are few eating options here, but the restaurants at the couple of hotels serve set meals for NT$200 to $350 per head.
Viewpoint
This visitor centre offers splendid views of Sun Moon Lake from atop a sleek modern structure that fits neatly in with the surroundings. Wood and concrete come together in a pattern of smooth lines meant to resemble outstretched arms. There's a cafe and a small museum about the surrounding ecology.
Museum
Don’t miss this superb museum adjacent to the main Chung Tai Chan Temple; it is a fabulous showcase of Buddhist artefacts dated as early as AD 386. If you wonder why one Buddha has a medicine ball in his hand while another is holding a lotus, look for the answers on the touchscreen panels. These tools will also help you understand the history of Buddhism, the statues, motifs, iconography, as well as the 22 physical markings of the Buddha.