The province of Småland isn't small at all, but occupies some 29,400-sq-km of dense forests, glinting lakes and bare marshlands from the Baltic Sea coast, deep into the Swedish interior. In fact, it's so big that its broken up into five smaller counties or län: Kalmar, Östergötland, Jönköpings, Kronobergs and Halland, of which Kalmar is the largest and Östergötland the most populous.
Historically, Småland served as a buffer between the Swedes and Danes who were forever having territorial tussles. Today, it's known for its Glasriket 'Kingdom of Glass' (think Orrefors and Kosta Boda glassware), the scenic Lake Vänern towns of Jönköping-Huskvarna, Gränna and Vadstena, and as the jump-off point for island explorations to Öland (from Kalmar, with its magnificent castle) and Gotland (from Oskarshamn, with its hulking ferries).
From nature to history and culture, Småland has a lot to offer – plan for a few days here if you can.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Småland.
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The site of one of Sweden's original glassworks, established in 1742, the Kosta Boda complex continues to reel in coachloads of visitors. It’s touristy, but the combination of gallery, glass-blowing demonstrations, eateries, and discount retail offerings, combined with the stunning Kosta Boda Art Hotel make it an attractive package. Book and begin 30-minute guided tours of the facility (50kr) from the Kosta Boda Art Gallery.
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Overlooking the lake, and considered one of the finest early Renaissance buildings in the Nordic region, construction commenced on Vadstena Slott, the family project of the early Vasa kings, in 1545. View their gloomy portraits inside, along with a modest historical display. The furnished upper floors are the most interesting, and be sure to visit the chapel, with its incredible 17-second echo! There are guided tours (in English, adult/child 130/90kr) from mid-July to mid-September; call ahead for times.
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The Sancta Birgitta Klostermuseet is in Bjälboättens Palats (a royal residence that became a convent in 1384). It tells the story of St Birgitta’s roller-coaster life and those of all her saint-and-sinner children. Artefacts include the coffin that carried her back from Rome.
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If you're a rev-head or just a lover of beautiful machines, this vehicle museum in a lovely lakeside spot is a must for its staggering collection of more than 300 vehicles of all makes, shapes, sizes and eras, from the humble to the extravagant.
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Sweden’s most famous rune stone, the 9th-century Rökstenen, is near the church at Rök (just off the E4 on the road to Heda and Alvastra, 25km from Vadstena). It’s a monumental memorial stone raised to commemorate a dead son and features the longest runic inscription in the world. It’s an ancient, intricate verse so cryptic that scholars constantly scrap over its interpretation. The outdoor exhibition and stone are always open. Buses are virtually nonexistent, though the scenic flatlands around Vättern make for perfect cycling.
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Not to be confused with the Kosta Glassworks, but within its grounds, the Kosta Glascenter offers demonstrations, workshops and classes in glass blowing with a variety of local artists. And there are plenty of outlets where you can buy one-off pieces made on the premises.
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The factory's own gallery has some stunning pieces but feels at times like a front for its nearby retail outlets. You can see even more exquisite pieces in the rooms and common areas of the Kosta Boda Art Hotel, which is like an extension of the gallery itself.
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‘Of plain construction, humble and strong’, the church was built in response to one of St Birgitta’s visions. After its consecration in 1430, Vadstena became the top pilgrimage site in Sweden. Step inside for medieval sculptures and carved floor slabs.
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Situated adjacent to the striking Väversunda kyrka, this nature reserve and lake pulls in a diverse cast of birds. The adjacent visitor centre has plenty of information about the wildlife you can see at the reserve and regularly organises themed tours.