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Östersund

This pleasant town by Storsjön lake, in whose chilly waters is said to lurk a rarely sighted monster, is a relaxed and scenic gateway town for further explorations of Norrland. It's remote enough that if you are approaching by car, you can expect to see almost as many reindeer as cars.

The town dates from 1786 and was a lucrative trading centre. Today, its appeal lies in its air of relaxation: in summer, people flock to the terrace bars and cafes of this Unesco-designated 'city of gastronomy', or wander its pedestrianised shopping streets. One of the best ways to appreciate Östersund is to take the footbridge across to the adjacent island of Frösön and gaze back at the city in profile, ideally around sunset.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Östersund.

  • Museum

    Jamtli

    Jamtli, 1km north of the centre, consists of two parts: the open-air museum, comprising painstakingly reconstructed wooden buildings, complete with enthusiastic guides wearing 19th-century period costume; and the indoor museum, home to the Överhogdal Tapestries, the oldest of their kind in Europe – Christian Viking relics from AD 1100 that feature animals, people, ships and dwellings. Another fascinating display is devoted to Storsjöodjuret (the lake monster), including taped interviews with those who claim they have seen it, monster-catching gear and a pickled monster embryo.

  • Museum

    Mus-Olles Museum

    If you're into collections of stuff, this is the place to come, about 34km northwest of Östersund and1 km north of the E14. Per-Olov Nilson was a charismatic collector extraordinaire who first opened his museum in 1906. He hoarded more than 150,000 objects, including 25,000 related to packaging, then formed a trust, which now operates the museum, to run things once he died (in 1955). This fascinating museum, including a cafe and various buildings, is on Per-Olov's old property.

  • Island

    Frösön

    Large and peaceful Frösön island sits just across the bridge from central Östersund, reachable by road and by footbridge from Badhusparken. The island takes its name from Frö, the pagan god of fertility, worshipped by the Vikings originally resident here. Just across the footbridge, outside Landstingshuset and near the Konsum supermarket, is Sweden’s northernmost rune stone, which commemorates the 1050 arrival of Austmaður or ‘East Man’, the first Christian missionary on Frösön.

  • Beach

    Badhusparken

    The waterfront park is the town’s most popular stop for sunbathing and a brisk swim. In winter the lake turns into Sweden's largest ice-skating rink (rent your skates here; 160kr per day) and you can also swim in the specially cut hole in the ice further south along the waterfront before making a spirited dash to the nearby mobile sauna and spa (140kr).

  • Factory

    Storsjöhyttan

    At Sweden's first Économusée (a concept originating in Quebec), you can observe the three masters of glass at work as they transform white-hot melted putty into original, striking creations. Immerse yourself in different glassmaking techniques and the history of glass, or take some glassy goodies home with you.

  • Animal Sanctuary

    Moose Garden

    Head to Moose Garden, 16km southwest of Östersund, to get up close and personal with the King of the Forest – or at least, some tame ones. You get to learn all about the moose, pat one and get as many photos as you like. There is also accommodation here in the form of Moose Lodges (from 690kr).

  • Archaeological Site

    Stone Age Rock Carvings

    Glösa, 40km northwest of Östersund and by the Alsensjön lake, has some of Sweden’s finest Stone Age petroglyphs. The carvings, on rock slabs beside a stream, feature large numbers of elk and date from 5000 BC. There’s also an excellent reconstruction of a Stone Age hut and replicas of skis, snowshoes, a sledge and an elk-skin boat. Nearby are some displays about elk hunting using traps (prohibited since 1864) and more modern methods.

  • Church

    Frösö Kyrka

    Five kilometres west of the centre of Östersund is the restored, late-12th-century Frösö kyrka, with its distinctive separate bell tower, built on a sacrificial site to the ancient gods ( æsir) and incredibly popular for midsummer weddings. Catch bus 3.