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Bordering Norway to the west, Dalarnas län (county) occupies a broad swath of land in middle Sweden. It runs from the remote and rugged landscapes of Grövelsjön and Idre in the northwest for about 350km to its southeastern extent, putting it within striking distance for holidaying Stockholmers.
At its heart, the shimmering waters of Lake Siljan, mirror-like in the late, midsummer sun, are bounded by mythical forests and rolling hills dotted with those picture perfect red-painted cottages that epitomise Swedish country life. Dalarna is also the origin of the iconic painted wooden Dalahäst (Dala horse) central to Swedish folklore.
Falun is the county capital, with its World Heritage copper mine and opportunities to get active in the great outdoors year-round. Stock up on painted horses outside Mora in the village of Nusnäs or if it is relaxing you seek, the village of Tällberg is sure to please.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Dalarna.
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Falun’s kopparbergs gruva was the world’s most important copper mine by the 17th century. Called 'Sweden's treasure chest', it drove the small country's international aspirations, funded wars and helped paint all those summer cottages that distinctive red. You can opt to take a one-hour underground tour of the mines or simply explore above ground where you'll find the interesting and informative Mine Museum and some heritage outbuildings, cafes and boutiques.
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Don’t miss Sweden's 'most famous home', located 13km northeast of Falun in the picturesque village of Sundborn. After their deaths, the early-20th-century residence of artist Carl Larsson and his wife Karin was preserved in its entirety by their children, but it’s no gloomy memorial: 'Lilla Hyttnäs' is itself a work of art, full of brightness, humour and love. Admission is by hour-long guided tour: call in advance to book English-language tours or grab an English handbook and follow the Swedes.
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Fat-bottomed roly-poly bear cubs are the star attraction at the largest predator park in Europe, some 16km north of Orsa. Even if there are no cubs around during your visit, there’s plenty to see: polar bears, Kodiak bears, leopards, Amur tigers, lynx, wolves, red foxes and wolverines. The park and the various possible activities here continue to expand, and now include cycling tours, themed hikes and more.
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Built by Axel Munthe (1857–1949), who served as the Swedish royal physician and wrote the best-selling memoir The Story of San Michele, this sumptuously decorated National Romantic–style mansion is set in beautiful gardens with views over Lake Siljan. Built for Munthe's second wife, an English aristocrat, in 1910–11, the mansion was rarely visited by Munthe as he spent most of his time attending to Queen Viktoria on the island of Capri. Admission is by guided tour only.
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The Falu Gruva mine museum, just behind the ticket-sales building at the entrance to the mining complex, contains everything you could possibly want to know about the history, administration, engineering, geology and copper production of the mine, plus displays about the miners' hospital, the world's biggest coin, and various myths and legends. If you're unable or unwilling to descend into the dark, damp but fascinating depths, admission to the museum also lets you freely wander the grounds: well worth it.
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Dalarnas Museum is a super introduction to Swedish folk art, music and costumes. It's kid-friendly, too, with the opposite of the usual 'Do not touch' signs (these say 'Be curious! Please touch!'). Selma Lagerlöf’s study is preserved here, and there are ever-changing art and craft exhibitions, including a great regional collection of textiles. Don't miss the graphic-arts hall, with a display on the history of Swedish sketching and engraving techniques, or the gallery of traditional costumes from all parts of Dalarna.
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The Zorn family house, Zorngården, is an excellent example of a wealthy artist’s residence and reflects Anders Zorn’s National Romantic aspirations (check out the Viking-influenced hall and entryway). Access to the house is by guided tour (in Swedish) on the hour and half-hour. Guided tours in English are conducted over the summer season at 11.15am and 2.15pm and must be booked in advance. Combination tickets including the adjacent Zornmuseet are 160kr (no child discount).
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Even if you have no interest in skiing, you may be pleasantly surprised by the excellent Vasaloppsmuseet, which really communicates the passion behind the world’s largest cross-country skiing event. There’s some fantastic crackly black-and-white film of the first race, a display about nine-times winner and hardy old boy Nils ‘Mora-Nisse’ Karlsson, and an exhibit of prizes. Outside the museum is the race finish line, a favourite place for holiday snaps (distilled alcoholic beverage).
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For something completely different, ride the funicular and elevator to this thoroughly original panoramic museum atop the iconic ski-jump tower looming over Falun from Lugnet, 3km east of town. On offer are excellent views, the chance to learn about the history of the towers and the niche sport of professional ski-jumping, a ride on the ski-jump simulator (for those who like things a little more hands on) or a more subdued game of boules on the lawn outside.