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Michael Heffernan

Palafrugell & Around

Halfway up the coast from Barcelona to the French border begins one of the most beautiful stretches of the Costa Brava. The town of Palafrugell, 4km inland, is the main access point for a cluster of enticing beach spots. Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu, one-time fishing villages squeezed into gorgeous small bays, are three of the Costa Brava’s most charming, low-key resorts.

Begur, 7km northeast of Palafrugell, is a handsomely conserved, castle-topped village with a cluster of less-developed beaches nearby. Inland, seek out tiny Pals and the fabulous cobbled village of Peratallada.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Palafrugell & Around.

  • See

    Castell de Púbol

    If you’re intrigued by artist Salvador Dalí, the Castell de Púbol is an essential piece of the puzzle. Between Girona and Palafrugell (22km northwest of the latter, south off the C66), this 14th-century castle was Dalí’s gift to his wife and muse Gala, who is buried here. The Gothic-Renaissance building, with creeper-covered walls, spiral stone staircases and a shady garden, was decorated to Gala’s taste, though there are surrealist touches like a grimacing anglerfish fountain and a pouting-lips sofa.

  • See

    Cap de Sant Sebastià

    The magical promontory framing the eastern end of Llafranc offers fabulous views in both directions and out to sea. It hosts an 1857 lighthouse, home to the excellent restaurant Far Nomo, plus a 15th-century watchtower and an 18th-century chapel now incorporated into an upmarket hotel. Also here are the ruins of a pre-Roman Iberian settlement (with multilingual explanatory panels). It’s a 1.2km (20-minute) walk up from central Llafranc: follow the steps from the harbour. You can continue north to Tamariu (4km, about an hour).

  • See

    Jardins de Cap Roig

    Atop Cap Roig, 2km southwest of Calella, these beautiful botanical gardens contain approximately 1000 floral species, set around the early-20th-century castle-palace of Nikolai Voevodsky – a tsarist colonel with expensive tastes, who fell out of grace in his homeland after the Russian revolution.

  • See

    Castell de Begur

    There is little to explore aside from the ragged ruins of this medieval castle, still in much the same state as when it was wrecked by Spanish troops to impede the advance of Napoleon’s army in 1810. A steep, signposted 1km walk leads from central Begur to the ramparts (25 minutes), with breathtaking views over hills rolling towards the Mediterranean.

  • See

    Platja Fonda

    From just northeast of Fornells' car park (4km south of Begur), stone stairs lead down to signposted Platja Fonda, a slate-grey pebbly beach that lures sunbathers (though it can be choppy). A path signed 'Fornells' branches off just before the steps to reach a stunning stony outcrop with a natural pool, where cerulean waves smash against rocks.

  • See

    Cala de Sa Tuna

    The finely pebbled beach of Sa Tuna sits in a small cove 3km east of Begur, fringed by now-remodelled fishers' houses. There are restaurants and parking, though the water can be a little unsettled. This scenic stretch of coast is backed by an old stone watchtower. You can walk to Sa Tuna along a 2.3km path from Begur.

  • See

    Cala d'Aiguafreda

    Around 4.5km northeast of Begur you'll find this tiny, divine rocky cove, where trails fringed by pine trees stretch around a headland. It’s more a picturesque place for a stroll than a sunbathing spot.

  • See

    Platja de Sa Riera

    The fine beach fronting Sa Riera, 3km northeast of Begur, has russet sands and a couple of cafes. A 40-minute, 2.5km walking path leads here from Begur.

  • See

    Museu del Suro

    This surprisingly large, modern museum within a 20th-century factory has audiovisual displays detailing Catalonia's cork industry. Cutting and branding machinery, cork transport and other mysteries are unveiled, while coats of arms made entirely of cork number among the more peculiar sights. The microscope examination station might seem like overkill for cork novices, but the museum offers a worthwhile glimpse into an industry critical to Palafrugell.