Matt Munro
Galicia
Galicia, a unique region with its own language and distinctive culture, is home to Santiago de Compostela, the destination of more than quarter of a million souls who travel each year along the Camino de Santiago pilgrim trails. Santiago is one of Spain's most beautiful and magical cities, an exceptionally good reason for any traveller to make their way to Spain's northwestern corner.
But Galicia is much more than Santiago. The wild coastline is frayed up and down its 1200km length by majestic rías (coastal inlets), and strung with cliffs, beaches, islands and fishing ports – which bring in arguably the best seafood in Europe. Inland is a labyrinth of deep-green valleys, speckled with stone villages, medieval monasteries and age-old vineyards. And as you travel you'll repeatedly run into reminders of Galicia's unique cultural identity: the sound of bagpipes, the wayside cruceiros (carved-stone crosses), the castro fort-villages of Galicians' Celtic ancestors.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Galicia.
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Catedral de Santiago de Compostela
The grand heart of Santiago, the cathedral soars above the city in a splendid jumble of spires and sculpture. Built piecemeal over several centuries, its beauty is a mix of an original Romanesque structure (constructed between 1075 and 1211) and later Gothic and baroque flourishes. The tomb of Santiago beneath the main altar is a magnet for all who come here. The cathedral's artistic high point is the Pórtico de la Gloria inside the west entrance, featuring 200 masterly Romanesque sculptures. Over the centuries the cathedral has suffered considerable wear and tear from water seepage, settlement and humidity. A decade-long restoration programme, which saw parts of the building closed to visitors for years, was due to be completed by the end of 2020. The magnificent baroque western facade facing Praza do Obradoiro, and the Pórtico de la Gloria just inside it, are among sections that have been returned to their former glory. Before the restoration works, the main entrance to the cathedral was through this Obradoiro facade, erected in the 18th century to replace the weather-damaged Romanesque one. Today the main entrance is from Praza das Praterías by the southern facade – the only one that conserves its original Romanesque form. Visits to the artistically unparalleled Pórtico de la Gloria (Galician: Porta da Gloria) are limited to 25 people at a time. Guided visits of 45 minutes are given several times daily, with tickets sold up to 90 days ahead through the cathedral website or on the same day (if available) at the Pazo de Xelmírez, the 12th-century bishop's palace adjoining the cathedral, where the tour starts. Book as far ahead as possible. Tours are normally in Spanish but occasionally in English: you can ask at the Pazo on the day of your visit and change your tour time if necessary. Fifteen-minute unguided visits happen between 7pm and 8pm Monday to Saturday; 50 general-public tickets (free) for these are given out on a first-come-first-served basis between 7pm and 8pm the day before at the Fundación Catedral office in the Casa do Deán. For Monday visits go on Saturday. Take your ID document. The Pórtico de la Gloria features 200 Romanesque sculptures by Maestro Mateo, who was placed in charge of the cathedral-building programme in the late 12th century. Now with much of their original colour restored, these detailed, inspired and remarkably lifelike sculptures in Galician granite add up to a comprehensive review of major figures and scenes from the Bible. The Old Testament and its prophets (including a famously smiling Daniel) are on the north side, the New Testament, Apostles and Last Judgment on the south, and glory and resurrection are depicted in the central archway. The main figure in the central archway is a throned, resurrected Christ, surrounded by the four evangelists plus angels and symbols of Jesus' passion. Below Christ's feet is Santiago, and below him Hercules or Samson, holding open the mouths of two lions. Traditionally, visitors arriving in the cathedral said a brief prayer while placing their fingers in five holes above Hercules' head, created by the repetition of this very act by millions of faithful over centuries. On the central pillar's other side is a sculpture believed to represent Maestro Mateo himself. Another tradition called for visitors to bump heads with the maestro to acquire some of his genius. Countless knocks led to Mateo's notably flat nose; he and Hercules are now blocked off by metal barriers. The three naves of the cathedral's main body are separated by majestic lines of Romanesque arches. Towards the east end of the building rises the fantastically elaborate, Churrigueresque Altar Mayor (High Altar). From the right side of the ambulatory (walkway) running round behind the Altar Mayor, a small staircase leads up to a statue of Santiago that has watched over the cathedral since its consecration in 1211. The faithful queue up here to kiss or embrace the statue. From the statue you emerge on the left side, then descend some steps into the Cripta Apostólica, where we are assured Santiago's remains lie, inside a large 19th-century silver casket. Behind the Altar Mayor is the Puerta Santa, which opens onto Praza da Quintana and is cracked open only in holy years – years when Santiago's feast day, July 25, falls on a Sunday, and plenary indulgence (forgiveness of all sins) is granted to pilgrims – bringing even bigger numbers of people than usual flooding in Santiago. This happens in 2021 and 2027. A pilgrims' Mass is usually celebrated at the Altar Mayor at noon, and other Masses at least once daily. Check to see if the cathedral's rooftop tours resume after the restoration finishes. They offer fabulous views of the city, and of the cathedral's interior from its upper storeys.
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Cabo Fisterra
Panoramic Cabo Fisterra is a 3.5km drive or walk south of Fisterra town. It's crowned by a lighthouse, the Faro de Fisterra. Camino de Santiago pilgrims ending their journeys here ritually burn smelly socks, T-shirts and the like on the rocks just past the lighthouse. Many people come for sunset but it's a magnificent spot at any time (unless shrouded in fog or rain). The former lighthouse-keepers' residence is now a comfortable modern hotel, with a good cafe-bar and restaurant. On the way out from Fisterra you pass the 12th-century Igrexa de Santa María das Areas. Some 600m past the church, a track signed 'Conxunto de San Guillermo' heads up the hill to the right, Monte Facho. This provides a longer (by 2km to 3km), but even more scenic alternative walking route to the cape, on which you can visit the mysterious Ermida de San Guillerme – a ruined medieval chapel and rock shelter which some believe may have been the location of a legendary ara solis (altar of the sun) that made Cabo Fisterra a place of pilgrimage long before Christianity arrived. It's also said that childless couples used to come here as recently as the 18th century to try to conceive.
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Praza do Obradoiro
The grand square in front of the cathedral's western facade earned its name (Workshop Sq) from the stonemasons' workshops set up here while the cathedral was being built. It's free of both traffic and cafes, and has a unique, magical atmosphere. Stretching across the northern end of the praza, the Renaissance-style Hostal dos Reis Católicos was built in the early 16th century by order of the Catholic Monarchs, Isabel and Fernando, as a hostel for exhausted pilgrims. Today it's a parador (luxurious state-owned hotel) and shelters well-heeled travellers instead. Its four stately courtyards are open to visitors: the self-guided tour is well worthwhile. Along the western side of the praza stretches the elegant 18th-century Pazo de Raxoi, now Santiago's city hall. At the south end stands the 17th-century Colegio de San Xerome, a former college for the poor that is now the rectorate of Santiago University. It has a 15th-century Romanesque/Gothic portal that was transferred from the college's earlier site.
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Cabo Ortegal
Four kilometres north of the workaday fishing town of Cariño looms the mother of Spanish capes, Cabo Ortegal, where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Bay of Biscay. Great stone shafts drop sheer into the ocean from such a height that the waves crashing on the rocks below seem pitifully benign. Os Tres Aguillóns, three jagged rocky islets, provide a home to hundreds of marine birds. On the road from Cariño, you can stop at the Miradoiro Gabeira viewpoint to take the well-marked Senda de San Xiao path to the little Ermida de San Xiao do Trebo chapel (1.6km). The path traverses a forest, crosses the Río Soutullo and affords grand views. From the chapel you can rejoin the road and continue 1.5km to Cabo Ortegal.
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Torre de Hércules
It was actually the Romans who originally built this lighthouse at the windy northern tip of the city, in the 1st century CE – a beacon on the furthest edge of the civilised world. The outer facing of the 59m-high tower was added in 1788–90, but the inside is mostly original Roman. Climb the 200-plus steps for great panoramas over the headland and its outdoor sculpture park. Buses 3 and 5 run here from Porta Real near Plaza de María Pita. The headland on which the tower stands is a sculpture park with 18 diverse works by Galician sculptors that are well worth investigating.
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Garita de Herbeira
From San Andrés de Teixido the DP2205 winds up and across the Serra da Capelada towards Cariño. Six kilometres from San Andrés is the must-see Garita de Herbeira, a naval lookout built in 1805, 615m above sea level and the best place to be awed by southern Europe's highest ocean cliffs.
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Punta da Estaca de Bares
From the lighthouse near the tip pf the Bares peninsula, a 500m trail follows the spine of a rock outcrop to the Punta da Estaca de Bares, Spain's most northerly point, with awe-inspiring cliffs and fabulous panoramas.
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Praia As Catedrais
This spectacular 1.5km sandy stretch is strung with awesome Gothic-looking rock towers, arches and chambers, sculpted by aeons of sea-water action. Avoid the hour or two either side of high tide when the beach is under water. Such is its popularity that during Semana Santa, July, August, September and some holiday weekends, permits (free from http://ascatedrais.xunta.gal) are required to go down on to the beach. Tickets or receipts from taxis, trains or buses to the beach are also valid for access. Esteiro train station is 1.3km from the beach. From July to September a four-times-daily bus service (€2.50 roundtrip) links Ribadeo's tourist office with As Catedrais. The beach's daily limit is 4812 visitors. There's no restriction on looking at it from the clifftops above.
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Cabo de Home
From the hamlet of Donón, 4km west of Hío, the windswept, rocky cape Cabo de Home stretches 2.5km south. It's strung with walking trails and a few driveable tracks, and has three lighthouses, a couple of beaches and great views of the Illas Cíes. The wonderfully panoramic Iron Age castro Berobriga sits atop Monte Facho nearby: reaching it involves an uphill walk of about 20 minutes, partly along a castro -era stone-paved track. Sandy, woodland-backed Praia da Barra stretches 1.3km from the east side of Cabo de Home and is widely agreed to be Galicia's most beautiful clothing-optional beach (you can walk to it from the cape or drive by a 1.6km side road off the Hío–Donón road).