For the millions of tourists who descend every year on its sandy beaches, splash in its gentle waves and stay in all-inclusive resorts, the coast from Cala Millor to Portocolom is paradise. But for those who mourn the loss of Mallorca’s once-pristine coastline, the overdevelopment is nothing short of a catastrophe. But the crowd-weary shouldn't be put off entirely. Head inland to cosy rural hotels and drive, cycle or hike to off-the-beaten-path beaches, such as Cala Romántica or Cala Varques.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Central East Coast.
Cave
Coves del DracOver-visited, probably overpriced, the Coves del Drac are by no means overrated. Of all Mallorca's accessible cave complexes, this is the least forgettable. A 1.2km shuffle with the inevitable crowd, accompanied by a multilingual commentary, leads through chamber after chamber of impossible shapes, colours and dimensions. The one-hour tour (leaving on each hour) finishes at a vast amphitheatre and lake, where you’ll enjoy a brief boat-borne classical music recital.
Beach
Cala MarçalThis broad, comely blue-flag beach is a lovely choice for a family outing from Portocolom: there's parking, nearby restaurants, toilets, and plenty of sand and gentle waves.
Beach
Cala VarquesThis isolated scrub-backed beach is one of the loveliest on Mallorca's east coast: nearly 100m long, and sloping down into brilliant turqouise sea.
Beach
Passeig de la SirenaMost of the town's activity crowds alongside the Passeig de la Sirena and the harbour, where a small crowded beach provides the perfect place to observe the comings and goings of fishing boats and yachts in the marina, perhaps over an ice cream or aperitif. Riddling the honey-coloured cliffs bordering the beach you’ll find the modest Coves Blanques, a handful of small caves that were inhabited during the Talayotic period and were later used by fishers for shelter.
Zoo
Safari-ZooBeyond Cala Millor's sprawl is Safari-Zoo, where you can see more than 600 animals (including rhinos, hippos, zebras, giraffes, baboons, wildebeest and numerous antelope species) from the comfort of your car or an open-sided tourist train (which skirts the reserve nine times daily). The animals have plenty of space to roam, unlike those in the depressing enclosures in the more traditional zoo that makes up the rest of the park.
Cave
Coves dels HamsOn the northern side of town on the road to Manacor, this underground labyrinth has some fine stalactite formations and an open-roofed cave rich with plants and birds. The main cave, with its 12 galleries, is the setting for the Sea of Venice musical performance. Be aware that the massive signs all over town to the 'caves' lead here, not to the more famous (and crowded) Coves del Drac.
Beach
Cala s’ArenalFacing Portocolom across the water, there are actually two, proximate s'Arenals: Grand, which is broader and sandier, and Petit, which is rockier, more secluded and more...petite. Both are well patronised by locals, when conditions are right.
Beach
Cala MagranerDifficult to access on foot and walled in by weather-pitted walls of rock, this secluded cove is the perfect place to drop anchor and dive off the side of a boat.
Beach
Cala SequerSequer is a tiny sequestered toenail of sand between sheer rock walls: great if you fancy the walk to get there, and the unbroken solitude once you arrive.