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Eastern Slovakia

Welcome to Slovakia's untrammelled east, home to Andy Warhol history, hundreds of hidden caves, and the best wine region you've never heard of. Freethinking Košice, Slovakia's second-largest city, is the prime reason to visit, with waterfall-kissed Slovenský Raj National Park close behind. But discovering Eastern Slovakia's uncommon attractions is a big part of the fun. Start with mysterious wooden churches, sprinkled across the lonely villages around Bardejov, before venturing to the Slovak Vatican, an ice cave and mouldy medieval wine cellars. Sprinkle it all with coppery spa waters, the country's best castle ruin, and a few architectural gems like Levoča and Bardejov, and you have one unforgettable road trip.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Eastern Slovakia.

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Cathedral of St Elizabeth
This 14th-century cathedral dominates Košice's main square, its gables bristling above tall, stained-glass windows while colourful roof tiles evoke a resplendent scaled dragon. One of Europe's easternmost Gothic cathedrals, 60m-long St Elizabeth is the largest in the country. Ascend 160 stone steps up the narrow stairwell of 59.7m-tall Sigisimund Tower to peep out across the city. Below the church, a crypt contains the tomb of Duke Ferenc Rákóczi, who was exiled to Turkey after the failed 18th-century Hungarian revolt against Austria. In summer, guided tours illuminate the history behind various features of the church, as well as entering the oft-closed St Michael's Chapel outside.
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Rodošto & Mikluš Prison
This complex's motley attractions form a whirlwind tour of Košice's history. In the bastion, whose walls date to the 15th century, Košice is revealed as a powerhouse of medieval weapons production: you'll see cannonballs, coats of arms and well-dressed horse mannequins. Adjoining is a replica of the house in which Hungarian national hero Franz II Rákoczi was exiled in the 18th century. At the prison, you'll learn executioner etiquette from a video presentation before seeing grisly restraints in the cells.
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Hlavné Nám
Much of Košice's finery is assembled along Hlavné nám, a long plaza with flower gardens, fountains and cafes on either side. Stroll past the central musical fountain to experience its hourly chimes (and, at night, the multicoloured light show). Across from the fountain is the State Theatre, a baroque beauty from 1899. Walking south you'll see the Shire Hall (1779), crowned with a coat of arms and home to the East Slovak Gallery.
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Hrnčiarska
Art studios and traditional workshops line quaint Hrnčiarska, including herbalists, blacksmiths, potters and purveyors of precious stones. Some of their crafts haven't changed in 200 years; others use timeworn techniques to create contemporary designs. A few businesses along this cobbled lane have traditional crafts demonstrations, while others house arty coffee shops.
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East Slovak Museum
Choose your own adventure at this sizeable regional museum with two distinct galleries. 'Centuries in Art’ offers richer cultural insights, with 16th-century woodcarvings, silversmithery and Gothic art, along with lavish parlour furniture from the 18th century onwards. Better for kids is the ‘Carpathian Nature’ exhibition, with antler-lined hallways, dinosaur figurines and enjoyably retro presentations on space exploration.
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Lower Gate Underground Museum
The underground remains of medieval Košice – lower gate, defence chambers, fortifications and waterways dating from the 13th to 15th centuries – were only uncovered during construction work in 1996. Get lost in the maze-like passages of the archaeological excavations at the south end of the square, which include the oldest walls in town.
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East Slovak Gallery
A thoughtfully curated gallery space with rotating exhibitions of contemporary art, the East Slovak Gallery also has a permanent collection of 19th- and 20th-century regional art. Most atmospheric are the underground chambers peopled with religious statues; among the oldest is a fine 14th-century sculpture of St John the Baptist.
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Plague Column
A statue of the immaculate conception of the Virgin Mary crowns Košice's 14m-high 'plague column'. Raised in 1723, this masterful baroque sculpture is a symbol of gratitude for Košice surviving numerous plagues and wars, in particular an epidemic in 1709–10.
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Singing Fountain
This water feature, framed by flowerbeds, dances to the merry tune of a nearby 22-bell sculpture every hour. In summer, come after sundown when multicoloured lights set the jets of water glowing.