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Welcome to Slovakia's untrammelled east, home to Andy Warhol history, hundreds of hidden caves, and the best wine region you've never heard of. Freethinking Košice, Slovakia's second-largest city, is the prime reason to visit, with waterfall-kissed Slovenský Raj National Park close behind. But discovering Eastern Slovakia's uncommon attractions is a big part of the fun. Start with mysterious wooden churches, sprinkled across the lonely villages around Bardejov, before venturing to the Slovak Vatican, an ice cave and mouldy medieval wine cellars. Sprinkle it all with coppery spa waters, the country's best castle ruin, and a few architectural gems like Levoča and Bardejov, and you have one unforgettable road trip.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Eastern Slovakia.
Castle
Crowning a travertine hill above Spišské Podhradie village, this vast, Unesco-listed fortification is one of Central Europe's biggest castle complexes. Its bulwarks and thick defensive walls date to the 12th century (at the latest), and once guarded Hungarian royals and nobles from flying arrows. Highlights of the four-hectare site, connected by stony pathways and stairs, include views from the 22m-high tower, and a museum of medieval history within the former palace.
National Park
Slovenský Raj's rocky plateaus, primeval forests and interlacing streams form some of Slovakia's most picturesque hiking terrain. Treks often involve scaling metal ladders or balancing on footbridges above waterfalls. For some, the ice-cold slap of river water is reward enough; for the rest of us, it's the views: cliffs giving way to forests and fog-filled valleys, and soft meadows. Trails are challenging but well-marked, and information centres offer multilingual advice. If visiting outside July-to-August high season, read up in advance.
Gallery
Pop-art pioneer and provocateur Andy Warhol (1928–87) would perhaps have wryly approved of Slovakia's peculiar museum in his name. The neon-splashed gallery dominates the otherwise dreary eastern town of Medzilaborce, where Warhol's parents grew up. Photographs and newspaper clippings detail the lives of the Warhols, but the art is much more interesting. Alongside Warhol originals are temporary exhibitions of present-day artists as well as Warhol's contemporaries. The museum's opening in 1991 was controversial; today it makes an entertaining detour.
Cave
More than 110,000 cubic metres of ice are packed into the gleaming walls of this Unesco-listed ice cave, near the southern edge of Slovenský Raj National Park. The atmosphere is otherworldly: icy stalagmites, resembling polished marble, bulge from the ground and chambers sparkle with dangling tendrils of frost. In places, the cave ice is 25m thick. The departure point is a half-hour walk from the car park, so arrive in good time ahead of guided tours (on the hour).
Church
This 14th-century cathedral dominates Košice's main square, its gables bristling above tall, stained-glass windows while colourful roof tiles evoke a resplendent scaled dragon. One of Europe's easternmost Gothic cathedrals, 60m-long St Elizabeth is the largest in the country. Ascend 160 stone steps up the narrow stairwell of 59.7m-tall Sigisimund Tower to peep out across the city.
Church
Glowing beatifically from a hill 2km north of Levoča, the Church of Mariánska Hora is Slovakia's most famous Catholic pilgrimage site. It's thought that a chapel has stood here since the 13th century, though the present neo-Gothic sanctuary is early-20th-century. Just as heavenly as the church, with its uplifting lemon-yellow facade, resplendent rose windows and medieval icon of the Virgin Mary, are the views of Levoča nestled among the meadowlands below. Drive or hike from town (up to an hour).
Winery
Set among expansive vineyards and pastures, Macik winery is a delightful place to experience the region's famous Tokaj wine. A little advance notice is all that's required to taste between six and 13 varieties at the family-run winery, just an hour's drive southeast of Košice; the highlight is touring warren-like wine cellars, blackened with dark mould – its growth is encouraged, to keep the humidity just right.
Church
With tall Gothic windows and a spear-like tower rising over the main square, this 15th-century three-nave basilica is the jewel of Bardejov's Unesco-inscribed architectural reserve. Built on the site of a former Cistercian monastery, the basilica has 11 Gothic altarpieces crafted between 1400 and 1520 (there's explanation in English about each). The highlight is climbing the tower for stupendous views of the orderly main square flanked by coral-roofed buildings.
Square
Much of Košice's finery is assembled along Hlavné nám, a long plaza with flower gardens, fountains and cafes on either side. Stroll past the central musical fountain to experience its hourly chimes (and, at night, the multicoloured light show). Across from the fountain is the State Theatre, a baroque beauty from 1899. Walking south you'll see the Shire Hall (1779), crowned with a coat of arms and home to the East Slovak Gallery.