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Székely Land

Székely Land's meadows, spa towns and occasional urban sprawl have one thing in common: their distinctly Hungarian spirit. In many places, conversation is almost entirely in the local Hungarian dialect, while signs list place names bilingually across much of Székely Land (that is, Ţara Secuilor in Romanian, Székelyföld in Hungarian). The shift from Saxon flavour in nearby Braşov and Sighişoara feels instant.

Charismatic cultural centre Târgu Mureş (Marosvásárhely in Hungarian), with a population evenly split between Romanian and Hungarian-speakers, should be your first stop. Further east, ethnic Hungarians comprise the majority in Odorheiu Secuiesc (Székelyudvarhely) and Miercurea Ciuc (Csíkszereda). Quintessential experiences are soaking in mineral-rich waters, perhaps Sovata's 'Red Sea' or a glossy spa in Băile Tuşnad, and dipping into Székely culture at the fine museums in Sfântu Gheorghe and Odorheiu.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Székely Land.

  • Museum

    Culture Palace

    This ornate secessionist-style building, ostentatiously tiled on the outside and colourfully furnished within, is unlike anything else in Transylvania. Built 1911–13, the Culture Palace harbours busts and glass portraits of composers, glinting chandeliers, Carrara marble stairways, mirrors imported from Venice, a regally decorated concert hall, and display rooms on local history and art (all included in the entry price). The undisputed highlight is the Hall of Mirrors (Sala Oglinzi), where Székely village life and dark fairy-tales are immortalised in stained glass.

  • Museum

    Ethnographic Museum

    Ethnographic exhibitions can be humdrum, so Târgu Mureş’ hay-strewn and vividly soundtracked museum is a welcome surprise. A voiceover (in Romanian), supplemented by a multilingual booklet, guides you through a racy story of moral dilemmas from a century ago, set in rural Transylvania. The museum is furnished with great attention to period detail. Vintage coats on hooks and discarded antique teacups allow you to imagine the characters in the story have only just left the room.

  • Museum

    Haáz Rezső Museum

    This lacey-looking building, 1900-built Haberstumpf cottage, seems slightly lost, standing next to the roaring main road through town. But the gallery within is excellent. It features mostly 20th-century art, much of it modern interpretations of the Hungarian and Romanian countryside, with plenty of striking sculptures and surreality around its several exhibition rooms.

  • Mine

    Salt Mine

    Believe it or not, boarding a bus that trundles down into a salt mine isn’t the most surreal part of visiting Salina Praid. Once inside, you’ll see ping pong tables, a kids’ climbing area, snack bars and a 3D cinema, all within its gritty walls. Resembling well-buffed marble, the salty floor is a playground for kids on scooters. Follow the exit signs to get to a more grown-up chamber (there's a bar).

  • Museum

    Muzeul Național Secuiesc

    About 200m south of Parcul Elisabeta, this wide-ranging museum has exhibitions on natural history, local history, Székely crafts and costumes, plus displays of archaeological discoveries from around the region. There's also a library with the oldest surviving Hungarian-language version of the Bible. The building holding these varied exhibitions is itself a masterpiece, in the style of a fortified church with colourfully tiled spiked roofs; it was designed by leading Hungarian architect Kós Károly between 1911 and 1912.

  • Brewery

    Csiki Sör Brewery Tour

    Learn the secrets of Miercurea Ciuc's beloved brew at this factory tour, 12km south of Miercurea Ciuc, through tastings and traditional Hungarian beer snacks. After a few sips, you too will be singing the praises of the Harghita Mountains' spring water and quality hops. Tours are according to demand, so book a few days ahead by phone or the website.

  • Castle

    Mikó Castle

    Miercurea Ciuc’s centrepiece, and the proud source of the Ciuc beer logo, is Mikó Castle. Today it houses the impressive Csíki Székely Múzeum, which hosts rotating displays of mostly Hungarian art within its venerable walls.

  • Notable Building

    County Council Building

    Next door to the Culture Palace is the County Council Building (1905–7), also secessionist in style. Its decorative orange and green tiled roof and ornate 60m watchtower have made it one of Târgu Mureş' most photographed buildings. You can glimpse inside to see hand-painted ceilings and stained glass facing a grand staircase, but tourists can enjoy a more in-depth fix of architectural splendour at the Culture Palace.

  • Lake

    Lacul Ciucaş

    From the modern church on the main road, Biserica Sfânta Maria, a cobbled path leads down to the lake. Wonderfully scenic thanks to a mountain backdrop and thick clusters of spruce, Lacul Ciucaş is the heart of Băile Tuşnad’s walking trails and spa activity. There isn’t much of a lake beach and it’s a little too reedy to swim, but there are picnic areas on the grass.