Limia River and Ermelo village Peneda Geres national park, northern Portugal

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In Trás-os-Montes, despite its clutch of large towns, rural life is still the region’s heart and soul, from the southwest’s steep vineyard-clad hillsides, to the olive groves, almond orchards and rugged canyon-lands of the sun-baked east, and the chestnut-shaded, heathery highlands of the north.

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