In Trás-os-Montes, despite its clutch of large towns, rural life is still the region’s heart and soul, from the southwest’s steep vineyard-clad hillsides, to the olive groves, almond orchards and rugged canyon-lands of the sun-baked east, and the chestnut-shaded, heathery highlands of the north.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Trás-os-Montes.
Palace
Casa de MateusFamously depicted on bottles of Mateus rosé, the 18th-century Casa de Mateus is one of Portugal’s great baroque masterpieces – probably the work of Italian-born architect Nicolau Nasoni. Guided tours of the mansion (in English, French, Spanish and German) take you through the main quarters, which combine rusticity with restrained grandeur.
Waterfall
Fisgas de ErmeloJust north of the town of Ermelo, on the N304 between Vila Real and Mondim de Basto, is a turn-off to the dramatic Fisgas de Ermelo waterfalls. From this junction, the road climbs 4km to an overlook with picture-perfect views of the falls and the rugged terrain surrounding them.
Viewpoint
Miradouro Fraga do PuioOverlooking a dramatic bend in the Douro just south of the village of Picote, this viewpoint is a dramatic spot to watch the sunset.
Fortress
CidadelaClimb uphill from Largo de São Vicente and you’ll soon set foot inside the astonishingly well-preserved 12th-century citadel. People still live in its narrow, atmospheric lanes, unspoilt by the few, low-key handicrafts shops and cafes that have crept in.
Village
Rio de OnorThis lovely little town of 70 souls situated in the eastern half of the park is entirely unfazed by the Spanish–Portuguese border splicing it down the middle. It’s interesting not just for its rustic stone buildings, the ground floors of which still house straw-filled stables for goats, sheep and donkeys, but also for its staunch maintenance of the communal lifestyle once typical of the region.
Museum
Museu do Abade de BaçalSet in a restored 18th-century bishop’s palace, this is one of Portugal’s best regional museums. Its diverse collections include local artefacts from the Celtic and Roman eras, along with objects, paintings and photographs depicting daily life in Trás-os-Montes from medieval times to the present.
Village
ErmeloThe 800-year-old village of Ermelo is famous for its schist cottages capped with fairy-tale slate roofs that seem to have been constructed from broken blackboards. Once the main village of the region, it boasts traditional espigueiros (stone granaries), an ancient chapel, a sturdy granite pelourinho (pillory), a workshop that still practises the ancient local art of linen-making, and Ponte de Várzea – a Roman bridge rebuilt in medieval times.
Tower
Torre de MenagemThe lovely Torre de Menagem (castle keep) stands alone on a grassy embankment behind Chaves' main square, the only major remnant of a 14th-century castle built by Dom Dinis. Around the tower are attractive manicured flowerbeds and a stretch of old defensive walls, with views over the town and countryside. For even better views, visit the Museu Militar, where a series of creaky staircases climbs past a motley collection of military gear to the tower's panoramic rooftop terrace.
Museum
Museu da Terra de MirandaThis modest but attractive museum sheds light on a unique culture that has preserved age-old traditions into the 21st century. The handsome 17th-century building (formerly Miranda’s town hall and jail) houses a fascinating collection of local artefacts: ceramics, textiles, furniture, musical instruments and tribal-looking masks, along with re-creations of a traditional kitchen and a blacksmith’s forge.