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Part of the Outer Eastern Carpathians, the Bieszczady (byesh-chah-di) range in far southeastern Poland extends into Slovakia and Ukraine. Scantily populated and graced by thick woods and open meadows, it’s one of the most attractive areas of the country. As tourist facilities are modest, roads sparse and public transport limited, the region has retained its relative isolation and is a wonderful off-the-beaten-track destination, popular with nature lovers and hikers.
The range’s eastern end, the highest and most spectacular part, has been decreed the Bieszczady National Park (Bieszczadzki Park Narodowy), with its headquarters in Ustrzyki Górne. At 292 sq km, it’s Poland’s third-largest national park after Biebrza and Kampinos. Its highest peak is Mt Tarnica (1346m).
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Bieszczady.
Museum
Sanok’s Museum of Folk Architecture is Poland’s largest skansen (open-air museum of traditional architecture). You’ll find around 120 historic buildings here and gain insight into the cultures of the nomadic Slavic groups, the Boyks and Lemks. Among the highlights are four timber churches (especially the 1667 St Nicholas'), an early 18th-century synagogue, an inn, a school and even a fire station. It's over the San River from the main town.
Museum
Housed in the Renaissance-style castle, this museum is best known for its 700-piece collection of Ruthenian icons. The selection consists of about 260 large pieces dating from the 15th to the 18th centuries, most acquired after WWII from abandoned Uniat churches. The museum’s other treasure is the collection of paintings by Zdzisław Beksiński (1929–2005) on the top floor. Beksiński, who was born in Sanok, was one of Poland’s most remarkable contemporary painters, with a fantastical style all his own.
Synagogue
Lesko's impressive former synagogue is the only one of five to survive WWII. Built in the Mannerist style in the mid-17th century, it has an attached tower – evidence that it was once part of the town’s fortifications. Little of the temple’s original interior decoration has survived, and it now houses a seasonal art gallery, showcasing work from the Bieszczady.
Church
At the southeast corner of the Rynek is the Franciscan Church of the Holy Cross, the town’s oldest. The interior and exterior are in baroque style and date to the mid-17th century, though recent archeological discoveries indicate 14th-century origins. The walls of the interior have a lacy, folksy feel, illuminated by the city's most famous piece of art: The Miraculous Painting of the Virgin Mary in Consolation.
Historic Building
The 16th-century Renaissance-style fortress you see today is built over the foundations of a 14th-century Gothic castle that itself replaced the wooden original, destroyed by the Tatars in 1241. On a natural defensive strongpoint overlooking the San River, it's stout and handsome, and only partially spoiled by the obviously new wing built to house the Historical Museum.
Museum
This modest museum, on a quiet street just a few metres north of the Rynek, is a good introduction to the geology, flora and fauna of the Bieszczady. The ground floor is given over to temporary exhibitions (such as photography in the Bieszczady) and staff can advise on what to see and do in the national park.
Church
Lesko's very pretty parish church, the oldest in Bieszczady, stands northwest of the centre of town. It was built in 1539 and its exterior still retains many Gothic features, including the eastern portal. The freestanding baroque bell tower was added in the mid-18th century.
Lake
Lake Solina (Jezioro Solińskie), a reservoir 27km long and 60m deep, was created in 1968 when the San River was dammed. Poland's largest artificial lake, it is also the Bieszczady region’s most important centre for water sports and recreation.
Cemetery
Before WWII, Jews accounted for two-thirds of Lesko's population. This moving cemetery, dating back to the mid-16th century, has more than 2000 gravestones and gives a tiny hint of the size and importance of the community. To find the entrance, follow ul Moniuszki north (downhill) from the synagogue for 100m. The stairs on the right lead up to the cemetery. There are no set hours – call the telephone number listed and someone will come to let you in.