Peru

Archaeological Site

Travelers have their heads literally in the clouds when visiting the walled jungle fortress Kuélap in the northern highlands of Peru – the gateway to the Amazonas region. Overlooking the lush Utcubamba Valley, situated at 3000m (9842ft) above sea level, this remote pre-Inca site is spread over 15 acres, making it one of the largest stone ruins in the Americas. Built by the indigenous Chachapoyas, Kuélap includes over 400 circular buildings (many well-preserved) that can be reached by foot or cable car. Dubbed the "Machu Picchu of the North," this lofty piece of history has yet to become a major tourism draw as the location is slightly off-the-beaten-path. The spectacular history and views of the cloud forest are reason enough however to take on the adventure of getting there. History of Kuélap A grandiose project, Kuélap was built by the Chachapoyas people (meaning “Cloud Warriors”) as early as the 7th century, a challenge that would continue on for at least another 400 years. The finished result is a near-mile-long stone complex divided into three sections, surrounded by walls (some reaching over 18m/60ft high) and with three narrow entrance points that would have forced intruders to slow down and enter in single file. Kuélap played witness to the flourishing Chachapoya culture and its purpose likely evolved with the years – fortress, refuge, strategic defense point and high-altitude city are among the site’s likely roles. The Chachapoyas enjoyed a few hundred years of peace and development until another culture in Peru began expanding across the Andes and along the coast of Peru. According to archaeological evidence and chroniclers of the time, the Incas chased the Chachapoyas out of their sky-high fortress towards the end of the 15th century and built a few of their own structures on the premises; a century later they too would suffer a loss when the Spanish violently colonized the pre-Columbian empire. Though the Incas were hoping to completely wipe out the Chachapoyas people, their legacy lives on in the genetic traces of indigenous communities that populate the modern Chachapoyas city. Ultimately abandoned, Kuélap was on the path to ruin as local fauna began to invade the area and thick cloud forest blanketed it from the common explorer. For better or worse, a local judge on a field visit to the area happened upon the stone complex in the 1840s, though no records show if damage, theft or otherwise was carried out. Not until 1979 did Peru’s Ministry of Culture take notice and implement plans to protect and conserve a piece of its history. Today the once-forgotten stronghold is on the Unesco World Heritage Site Tentative List and the recent (2017) implementation of on-site cable cars is just one effort to make Kuélap more appealing and accessible to tourists. Top things to see at Kuélap Only a third of Kuelap has actually been excavated and yet what is visible is quite striking and telling of the pre-Columbian Chachapoya culture. Shielded by a colossal stone wall, the center of Kuelap is scattered with hundreds of low circular walls – the remnants of dwellings that were once covered by soaring thatched roofs. The round shapes are enough to make the Chachapoya culture unique, considering most ancient Andean cultures used straight lines in their designs. Epiphytes and orchids lure hummingbirds, which in turn guide visitors along the nearly 610-meter (2000ft) long site, passing rhomboid friezes and zoomorphic reliefs along the way. Keeping a balance on the south and north ends, Kuélap is guarded by two towering structures. On the southwestern end of the site stands the Main Temple, also referred to as El Tintero (Inkpot). Fashioned in the shape of a large inverted cone, this enigmatic structure likely served religious or ceremonial purposes – archaeologists have found an underground chamber housing the remains of animal sacrifices, as well as graves and llama skeletons in the surrounding area. Meanwhile its height of 5.5m (18ft) has led others to speculate it was used as a solar observatory. On the northwest is the 7-meter (23ft) tall Torreón, a tower perhaps used as a watchtower or for defensive purposes due to findings of stone weapons. When to visit Located in northern Peru, where the Andes meet the Amazon, Kuelap is no stranger to sudden spouts of rain. The ideal time of year to visit Kuélap is between April and October, the so-called dry season (though rain in this region can be unpredictable any time of year). Temperatures will be slightly cooler, but the sun will likely be shining upon the high-altitude site. Unlike Machu Picchu, Kuélap can be visited all year round. The main disadvantage of visiting between November and March is the high probability of rainfall, making any length of the hike much more difficult and the numerous changes in transportation required all the more uncomfortable. Keep in mind that the site attracts a fair amount of local visitors on the weekends and holidays, so aim for a mid-week visit early in the morning. It is recommended to wear light layers as well as to bring a sun hat, rain jacket, sunscreen and bug repellant. How do I get there? Far from major urban hubs, Kuélap is relatively isolated compared to its younger and more famous cousin, Machu Picchu. The fastest way to get to Kuelap is by flying from Lima to the high jungle city Jaen, a 1.5-hour flight. There are typically two direct flights offered daily by Latam airlines, and it is recommended to take the early flight as, from Jaen, the city of Chachapoyas is a 4-hour drive by car or bus. Once in Chachapoyas take a taxi or colectivo (shared public transport) to Nuevo Tingo (about 1 hour away) to purchase lift tickets. Hop on a cable car for a scenic 20-minute ride that ascends towards Kuélap. After disembarking, travelers will have to walk 30 minutes to arrive at the site entrance. In total, it takes about 8 hours of hopping on and off transportation to arrive at Kuélap (depending on bus or taxi availability and road conditions), making the journey of getting there an adventure in itself. There are plenty of small inns and hostels in Chachapoyas should travelers forgo the rush and enjoy a bit of rest before jumping in the car again to head to Nuevo Tingo. Alternatively, those looking to stretch their legs can skip the cable cars and, from Tingo Viejo, embark on a 9km (5.6mi) hike through the cloud forest along the Camino Herradura. It takes about 3-4 hours to ascend the craggy mountainside and, though trails are well-marked, local guides can be hired in Chachapoyas city. Tickets and information Once a site well off the beaten path, Kuélap is inching its way to popularity thanks to the cable cars and direct flights to Jaen – neither of which were transportation options a decade ago. However, the low fees for arrival and entrance are an indication of how little tourism the impressive site continues to receive. Purchase of tickets for the cable car and site entrance is only available on site. Round-trip tickets for the cable car ride must be paid in cash (Peruvian soles only) and cost S/21.70 per person (regardless of age). The cable lift system operates Tuesday through Sunday, 8am-4:30pm. Keep in mind that while the cable cars do not operate on Mondays there are buses that can transport travelers from Nuevo Tingo towards the site entrance. Entrance to Kuélap costs S/30 for adults, S/15 for seniors and just S/2 for children 12 years or younger. Visitors should expect to spend at least 2 hours perusing the site. Hiring a local guide is strongly recommended to get the most out of the trip.

Lake

The largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca — a snowcapped range of the Andes in west central Peru — and a gorgeous natural reservoir, Laguna Paron is a unique destination for hikers, rock climbers and nature enthusiasts. Located within the Huascaran National Park and 62 miles north of the hiking mecca Huaraz, the 17.1 square mile lake is distinguished by its striking turquoise hue, a result of high concentrations of dissolved lime. From its shores visitors can take in precious views of formidable peaks blanketed in fresh snow (including Artesonraju, the pyramid peak many believe to have inspired the logo of Paramount Pictures). Listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1985, Laguna Parón can be reached by car or by foot. Having arrived at this awe-inspiring body of water at 4185 meters above sea level, the serene environment welcomes one to meditate, rock climb, kayak or even set up camp near the quiet shores. How to get to Laguna Parón Most people visit the lake as part of an organized tour out of Huaraz or Caraz (from S/50), as the logistics of getting to Laguna Parón — whether by car, hike, or a combo — can become complicated. From Lima, Huaraz can be reached by an 8hr bus ride (take a night bus to pass the time sleeping). A variety of companies whose offices are spread throughout the capital city offer the commute. One of the better recommended is MovilBus. The city of Huaraz is not large, and a short stroll around the plaza will lead you to numerous offers from local agencies and guides for full-day tours of Laguna Parón. Be sure that the guide you hire is certified for Laguna Parón and expect to pay between S/50-70 per person for a group tour. Reputable tours won’t set out until 7:30am or 8am the following day, so take the first day in Huaraz to acclimatize (the city is 3052m/10,013ft above sea level). If you want to venture to Laguna Parón on your own, you will need to commute from Huaraz to Caraz by "combi" (public shuttle van). The 45-mile ride takes less than two hours and costs between S/6-8 per person. These vans depart throughout the day and can be found on Jr. Cajamarca, a 10-minute walk north of the Plaza de Armas in Huaraz. Having arrived in Caraz, find a taxi (there are no rideshare apps here) that is willing to take you to the lake and wait until you are ready to return. Including a wait time of 2-3 hours, a round-trip taxi ride will cost between S/150-180. The bumpy ride takes nearly two hours. Walking to Laguna Parón Those in physical shape and with proper acclimatization to the altitude can hike to Laguna Parón from the town of Parón, a S/8-10 combi ride from Caraz. The 8-mile hike can take three to five hours, depending on stamina as it is quite steep and rocky. Be warned: signs along the route are few and far between, another reason to hire a local guide. Apps such as Maps.me can be helpful navigating the route even without a wi-fi or data connection. Trekkers looking to return to Caraz the same day must get back to the town of Parón before 3pm, when the last shuttle van leaves, or should coordinate for a taxi to wait at the park entrance. What to do at Laguna Parón The lake continues to promote water-based activities despite the fact that its water level was lowered from 75 meters to 15 meters in the mid-1980s to prevent a collapse of Huandoy’s moraine. You can rent a kayak and navigate the smooth frigid waters for half an hour (S/20). Families may be interested in taking a boat ride, though it is costlier and lasts far less time (S/10 per person, and just 15 minutes). Rock climbers will find a challenge at Torre de Parón, known as the Sphinx. There are at least 13 wall routes on the granite monolith. Take an easy hike to the lookout point, the Mirador. This 30 to 40 minute trek is well marked and leads to a prime view (and plenty of photo opportunities) of the turquoise lake. But take your time as you inch your way up in altitude. Looking to soak up the most of your time in Laguna Parón? Campers are welcome and can camp without a fee, though there are no amenities or equipment available on site. You'll need to bring a tent, a warm sleeping bag, plenty of layers and all your food. The following day be sure to take everything with you, including your trash of course, to continue to preserve this pristine natural gem. Tickets and other practicalities Entrance tickets to the lake can be purchased once you’ve reached Huascaran National Park. The entrance fee is S/5. Buy food and water in Huaraz or Caraz, whichever will be the final city/town before heading up to the lake as there are no guarantees of finding vendors at Laguna Parón. The best time to visit is between April and September, when it is sunnier and dry in the Andes. Take a day or two in Huaraz or Caraz to acclimatize to the high altitude. The lake is located at over 4,000 meters above sea level, and rushing to the top can result in stomach sickness or extreme headaches. Restaurant options in Caraz are slim, though La Peña del Gordo is a prime spot to try local flavors, including charqui, a dehydrated meat typically beef or alpaca. Have plenty of Peruvian soles on hand as all transportation, restaurants and entrance fees are all paid in cash not with a bank card.

Archaeological Site

In most people's minds, Chavín is less a town and more a set of ruins – not any old ruins, but the erstwhile ceremonial center of one of Peru's most sophisticated early civilizations, and a Unesco World Heritage Site to boot. Most visitors zip by on a day trip, ignoring the diminutive colonial town with its whimsical plaza and somnolent streets that sits somewhere on the charm-o-meter between gorgeous Chacas and slightly less gorgeous Huari. If you decide to overnight here, you can visit the impressive archaeological site in the early morning and have it all to yourself. Things to do at Chavín de Huántar From Chavín you can hike for a few hours into a lofty valley, in the direction of Olleros, to a high pass with stirring views of Huantsán (6395m) – the highest mountain in the southern Cordillera Blanca. Longer hiking trips with mules and guides can be organized through Cafetería Renato. After admiring the Chavin ruins from ground (and underground) level, you can climb up to this trio of crosses grafted onto a crag high above town for a full view of the archaeological site. Walk four blocks north of Plaza de Armas on Jirón Huaca, turn left, and take the stony, well-marked path uphill. It’s around 3km round-trip. The sulfur Quercos thermal baths, a 30-minute walk south of town, house numerous windowless bath cubicles that fail to take advantage of their riverside setting. Still, the waters work wonders on post-hike muscles. Steps lead down from the main road to modest facilities by the river. A taxi from town costs S10. The outstanding Museo Nacional de Chavín, funded jointly by the Peruvian and Japanese governments, houses most of the intricate tenon heads carved with horror-stricken expressions from Chavín de Huántar , as well as the magnificent Tello Obelisk, another stone object of worship with low relief carvings of a caiman and other fierce animals. The obelisk had been housed in a Lima museum since the 1945 earthquake that destroyed much of the original museum, and was only returned to Chavín in 2008. The museum is located around 2km from the ruins on the north side of town – an easy 25-minute walk It's best to get an early start and make the most of daytime activities while you can. Chavín goes to bed early; this is no party town. Stifle your late-night pisco-sinking urges until you get back to Huaraz. Where to stay and eat There are several lodging options and eateries in Chavín, even if it isn't the most bustling part of Peru. Lodging Finca Renato is perched on a hillside overlooking town, this 6-hectare farm has icy showers but offers fantastic views over rooftops to the ruins. There's a basic refugio with dorm beds and cooking facilities, plus campsites. Make bookings and pick up directions at Cafeteria Renato before venturing up. Hostal Chavín Turístico is a go-to, family-run option for the few travelers who stay overnight in Chavín has well-appointed rooms with cute bedspreads, large bathrooms and – perhaps most refreshingly – no chipped paint or rusty pipes. The rooms are one block away from the same-name restaurant where you check in. Uploading your Instagrams will have to wait, however. There's no wi-fi. Hostal Inca 's street profile is alluring enough – a whitewashed colonial building in Chavín's main square with some flowery arrangements in the courtyard. However, when you get down to the nitty-gritty the Inca is overdue a refurb, with dusty rooms, slightly lumpy beds and no hot water. Breakfast is S12 extra. Dining Churning out sophisticated dishes that outpunch its location’s weight class, Buongiorno is a pleasant surprise in a cordial garden setting. The lomo a la pimienta, a Peruvian fave of grilled steak in wine, cream and cracked-pepper sauce (S35), is three-star Lima quality and the menu also has some strong Italian inflections courtesy of the owner who spent several years abroad. The cooks at  often dart out to the extensive gardens and grab some fresh organic herbs – a nice touch. It’s 50m across the bridge from the entrance to the ruins. The restaurant mainly focuses on the busy dinner trade (when it fills with tour groups). If you're planning on dinner, check ahead as closing times are flexible. For simple international breakfasts alongside homemade yogurt, cheese and manjar blanco (homemade caramel spread), head to Cafeteria Renato, a rustic cafe done out like a cowboy corral with saddles slung over walls and maps decorating the walls. The owners also organize horseback riding and hiking trips in the area. A solid option, especially for trucha al ajo (garlic trout) and trout sudado (in sauce), Chavín Turístico has rickety tables around a tiny courtyard and a chalkboard of traditional dishes. The food doesn't lack flavor, and local archaeologists say it’s the most reliable choice in town. It's affiliated with Hostal Chavín Turístico. How to get to Chavín The paved road across the Cordillera Blanca to Chavín passes the Laguna Querococha at 3980m from where there are views of the peaks of Pucaraju (5322m) and Yanamarey (5237m). The road continues through the Kahuish Tunnel (4516m above sea level), which cuts through the Kahuish Pass. As you exit the tunnel and descend toward Chavín, look out for the massive statue of Christ blessing your journey. It was built by Italian missionaries. In Chavín, most transportation leaves from the ugly new bus station several blocks south of the plaza. All local buses pick up and drop off where the highway bends at the plaza. Olguita Tours has regular departures to Huaraz (S12, 2½ hours, six daily) as well as Huari (S5, two hours, four daily) to the north. Transportes Sandoval offers similar services. Combis / colectivos head to Huaraz (S20/25, 2½ hours) from the oddly named Plaza Chupa, a block north of the quaint Plaza de Armas. Both Movil Tours and Turismo Rosario have 7:40pm departures to Lima (S55 to S75, nine hours). The former is far superior, with comfortable and reliable coaches equipped with reclining seats. To continue north along the east side of the Cordillera Blanca, most of the buses originating in Huaraz continue to Huari (S5, two hours). Colectivos leave frequently from near the Plaza de Armas to San Marcos (S2, 20 minutes) from where you can catch colectivos to Huari (S5, 45 minutes). Other than these buses, there is no other public transportation beyond Huari. Hikers can walk to Chavín from Olleros in the Callejón de Hualyas in about three days; it’s an uncrowded trek. The history of Chavín de Huántar Named after the site at Chavín de Huántar, this is considered one of the oldest major cultural periods in Peru, strutting its stuff on the pre-Inca stage from 1200 BC to 500 BC. The Chavín and its contemporaries wielded their influence with great success, particularly between the formative years of 800 BC to 500 BC when they excelled in the agricultural production of potatoes and other highland crops, animal husbandry, ceramic and metal production, and the engineering of buildings and canals. Chavín archaeologists have formerly referred to this time of political ascendance as the Chavín Horizon, though Early Horizon or Late Formative is also used. The principal Chavín deity was feline (jaguar or puma), although lesser condor, eagle and snake deities were also worshipped. Representations of these deities are highly stylized and cover many Chavín-period sites and many extraordinary objects, such the Tello Obelisk in the Museo Nacional de Chavín; the Lanzón, often referred to as the Smiling God, which stands in mystical glory in the tunnels underneath the Chavín site; and the Raimondi Stone at the Museo Nacional de Antropología, Arqueología e Historia del Perú in Lima. The Raimondi Stone (which is currently considered too fragile to move to Chavín) has carvings of a human figure, sometimes called the Staff God, with a jaguar face and large staffs in each hand – an image that has shown up at archaeological sites along the northern and southern coasts of Peru and which suggests the long reach of Chavín interactions. The images on all of these massive stone pillars are believed to indicate a belief in a tripartite universe consisting of the heavens, earth and a netherworld, or, as an alternative theory goes, a cosmos consisting of air, earth and water, though these remain elaborate guesses – archaeologists at the site have seen no good evidence to support any of these theories. As a major ceremonial center, the most powerful players in Chavín were its priests, who impressed the upper ranks of society with complex rituals that were occasionally terrifying. One theory says priests relied on sophisticated observation and understanding of seasonal changes, rain and drought cycles, and the movement of the sun, moon, and stars to create calendars that helped the Chavín reign as agriculturalists, though there is as yet no evidence that calendars were created. Others believe that Chavín leaders were getting to the point of being free of system-serving, and heading for authority based on belief rather than for serving an agricultural purpose. Some archaeologists have argued that women also served as priests and played a powerful role during the Chavín period. Chavín, it seems, remains a rather polarizing mystery.

Archaeological Site

Before metal or ceramic was invented and well before the Maya and Inca cultures ruled, there was Caral, the oldest civilization in the Americas. Having dominated Peru’s coast from 3000-1800 BCE, Caral (also referred to as Norte Chico) would leave behind a massive complex, less than 130 miles from Peru’s modern-day capital, Lima. Constructed when the first pyramids of Egypt were taking shape, the ancient urban center spans over 150 acres of dry desert, overlooking the verdant Supe valley. The Caral archaeological site is impressively well-preserved (perhaps because it was rediscovered less than a century ago) and visitors will note its complex architectural designs and advanced city planning in longstanding earthen and stone structures such as sunken circular plazas, a 28m-high temple, residential and elite dwellings, and ditches to channel water. Caral was the blueprint of Andean civilization and yet the Unesco World Heritage Site receives just a trickle of tourism. Slightly isolated and historically crucial, embrace the absence of crowds when going off the typical tourist route and visiting Caral. History of Caral Buried under desert sand dunes until rediscovered by American archaeologist Paul Kosok in 1948 and extensively studied by Peruvian archaeologist and anthropologist Ruth Shady since the 1990s, Caral is believed to have developed 5000 years ago. The site is one of the largest in the Americas and its creators, the Caral, one of the most important cultures in the world. The Caral civilization (also referred to as Caral-Supe or Norte Chico) thrived on agriculture and fishing, as they were dwellers of Peru’s northern coast. They established themselves in today’s Barranca region around 3000 BCE with small, dispersed settlements that would interact through trade. Evidence-based findings support the idea that Norte Chico members also traded products, resources and knowledge with distant communities based in the jungle and highlands of Peru. The diverse relationships and gained perspectives no doubt contributed to this ancient society’s advanced scientific and technological know-how. The Caral complex was likely built around 2700 BCE and, perhaps for the first time in the Americas, managed to unite settlements in a sacred urban center. Much mystery remains about the civilization but it is believed that at its height Caral was home to an estimated 3000 residents. Details in the architecture, such as stairways that align with stars and altars with fire pits, point to religious and ceremonial occurrences. The absence of a walled closure is the first sign of this society’s peacekeeping trait and in fact archaeologists have yet to find any evidence of warfare in their diggings. Instead, musical instruments made of animal bones and a knotted textile apparatus used for accounting called quipu, popularly associated with the much later Inca culture, have been found in the grounds of Caral. Experts like Shady point to extreme climate change as the cause of Caral’s collapse. Prolonged drought dried up the Supe river and turned what was once a lush valley into the arid dunes that greet visitors today. Archaeologists have found evidence of various other extreme natural phenomena that would have scared Caral locals away (such as earthquakes and floods), leaving Caral abandoned around 1800 BCE. And while Caral is certainly the best preserved and studied example of this pioneering civilization, remnants of 18 neighboring ancient cities have been discovered by archaeologists in the past few decades. In other words, there is much to be discovered about the cradle of Andean civilization and Caral just so happens to be the gateway. How to get to Caral Located north of Lima, about 115 miles along the PanAmerican Highway, Caral can be reached by bus or private car. A four-hour drive, it is doable as a full-day excursion from the capital city; however, travelers should embark on the trip as early as possible in order to enjoy their time at the archaeological site. In a private car, head north along the Panamericana Norte highway until reaching the district of Supe (Barranco) at kilometer 187. From there, drivers are guided by signs to take an exit to the right in order to reach the archaeological site. Considering that renting a car in Peru is extremely expensive and the driving culture unsafe for the unaccustomed, the best option is to visit Caral by bus. Bus companies such as MovilBus and Turismo Barranco operate daily and leave Lima as early as 5:30am and offer return shuttles from Supe until 5:15pm. Round trip tickets are about S/50, depending on the company. The buses only go as far as Supe however, which means travelers need to then take a taxi or colectivo (shared taxi) from the bus stop to the Caral site. From Supe’s main square, walk a few blocks towards the district market and ask for “colectivos a Caral.” A colectivo is by far the more budget-friendly option as it will likely cost less than S/10 for the 40-minute ride, while a taxi can charge up to S/50. Tip: Ask the colectivo or taxi driver to wait for you as you tour Caral, since hailing a taxi in the middle of the desert is not easily done. Tickets to Caral Caral can be visited Monday to Saturday, from 10am-4pm. General entrance to Caral costs S/11 for adults, S/1 for children under 12 years, and S/5.50 for seniors (60 years and over). Tickets must be paid in cash (Peruvian sol) at the on-site ticket booth. Though signs in English are available throughout the site, local guides are available for hire on-site for S/20 to ensure a deeper experience. The site can be accessed by wheelchair although the paths are rocky so caution is advised. Though there are on-site shops, often the only thing open is the ticket booth. Pack a sun hat, sunscreen and plenty of water as you’ll be navigating this open desert site for 2-3 hours by foot.

Island

Of the small remote islands dotted around Lake Titicaca, Isla Amantaní is the least visited. Its population is just 4000, is a few kilometers north of the smaller Isla Taquile and many tours day trip through the region without continuing to Amantaní. Still, a stay here is unforgettable, and it's well worth making your way to this remote corner of Peru. Almost all trips to Amantaní involve an overnight homestay with islanders, giving you a privileged glimpse into the local way of life. The island is very quiet, with no roads or vehicles – you won't even see a dog, as they aren't allowed. Isla Amantaní boasts lovely views, too. Several hills are topped by ruins, among the highest and best-known of which are Pachamama (Mother Earth) and Pachatata (Father Earth). These date to the Tiwanaku period, named for a largely Bolivian culture that appeared around Lake Titicaca and expanded rapidly between 200 BC and AD 1000. Homestays at Isla Amantaní When you arrive, Amantaní Community Lodging – which is essentially made of the island families – will allocate you to your accommodations according to a rotating system. Please respect this process, even if you are with a guided group. There’s no problem with asking for families or friends to be together. All visitors eat at their homestay, and the meals typically include island staples like fish and quinoa. There are small stores for snacks, too, however. As with Taquile, the islanders speak Quechua, but their culture is more heavily influenced by the Aymara. The villagers sometimes organize rousing traditional dances, letting travelers dress in their traditional party gear to dance the night away – though, of course, your hiking boots might ultimately give you away. Don’t forget to look up at the incredibly starry night sky as you make your way back to your hosts' home. Getting to Isla Amantaní Ferries (round-trip S30; admission to island S8) leave from the Puno port for Amantaní at 8:30am every day. There are departures from Amantaní to Taquile and Puno around 4pm every day – check, though, as times vary – and sometimes from Amantaní to Puno at around 8am, depending on demand. A private boat taxi between Llachón and Amantaní costs S100 return.

National Park

This vast national park in the Amazon Basin covers almost 20,000 sq km and is one of the best places in South America to see a stunning variety of tropical wildlife. Progressive in its emphasis on preservation, Unesco declared Manu a Biosphere Reserve in 1977 and a World Natural Heritage Site in 1987. Entry is only with guide and permit.

Market

At the southeast end of town is the floating shantytown of Belén, consisting of scores of huts, built on rafts, which rise and fall with the river. During the low-water months, these rafts sit on the river mud, but for most of the year they float on the river − a colorful and chaotic sight. Seven thousand people live here, and canoes float from hut to hut selling and trading jungle produce.

Viewpoint

About two hours beyond Paucartambo is the extraordinary jungle view at Tres Cruces, a lookout off the Paucartambo–Shintuya road. The sight of the mountains dropping away into the Amazon Basin is gorgeous in itself, but is made more magical by the sunrise phenomenon that occurs from May to July (other months are cloudy), especially around the winter solstice on June 21. The sunrise here gets optically distorted, causing double images, halos and an incredible multicolored light show.

Archaeological Site

For many travelers to Peru, a visit to the lost Inca city of Machu Picchu is the whole purpose of their trip. With its awe-inspiring location, it is the best-known and most spectacular archaeological site on the continent. Despite being swamped by tourists from June to September, it still retains an air of grandeur and mystery. Entrance tickets, valid for a morning or afternoon turn, often sell out: buy them in advance in Cuzco.