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Beautiful, culturally rich, affordable and easily accessible from Durban and Johannesburg, mountainous Lesotho (le-soo-too) is a vastly underrated travel destination. The contrast with South Africa could not be more striking, with the Basotho people's distinct personality and the altitudinous terrain's topographical extremes. Even a few days in Lesotho’s hospitable mountain lodges and trading posts will give you a fresh perspective on Southern Africa.
This is essentially an alpine country, where villagers on horseback in multicoloured balaclavas and blankets greet you round precipitous bends. The hiking and trekking – often on a famed Basotho pony – is world class, offering undulating expanses of pastoral charm, traditional rondavels (round huts with a conical roof) and innumerable grazing sheep.
The 1000m-high ‘lowlands’ offer craft shopping and sights, but don't miss a trip to the southern, central or northeastern highlands, where streams traverse an ancient dinosaur playground. This is genuine adventure travel.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Lesotho.
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This site is unique in Lesotho, not only because it is the country's only snake park, but because you can also get your car washed while you visit the anacondas, endemic puff adders and spitting cobras. Oh, and the eccentric, local herpetologist who owns the place also keeps bees. And the first chief of Qacha's Nek used to live in a cave above where the snakes are kept. For the full effect, do the tour late at night (don't worry, the place is lit up).
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Dinosaur footprints abound near Leribe. About 7km north of town (en route to Butha-Buthe) are the Subeng River footprints. At the signpost, just before the road crosses the river, walk down about 500m to a concrete causeway. The worn footprints of at least three species of dinosaur are about 15m downstream on the right bank. A local man who owns the land will collect your money, and children will likely offer to guide you.
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This set of footprints is a few kilometres south of Leribe at Tsikoane village. Immediately after the Tsikoane Primary School, take the small dirt road to the right towards some rocky outcrops. Follow it up to the church. Children will vie to lead you the 1km slog up the mountainside to the footprints, in a series of caves, and a guide can be helpful here. The prints are clearly visible on the rock ceiling.
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One of Quthing’s main claims to fame is the proliferation of dinosaur footprints in the surrounding area. The most easily accessible are signposted on the left as you leave town heading northeast towards Qacha's Nek. In this building are 230-million-year-old footprints and a craft shop. Children will offer to guide you to more footprints for a small tip.
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A little-visited but incredibly picturesque lake that makes for gorgeous day trips from Quthing (a two-hour, bumpy ride each way). Intrepid travellers may even opt to camp here. One guide who can arrange the outings is Mamalephane, who works in conjunction with the Hillsview Guest House.
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Five kilometres west of Quthing is this intriguing section of an old mission, built directly into a San rock shelter in 1866 by Reverend David-Frédéric Ellenberger, a Swiss missionary who was among the first to arrive in Lesotho. There’s a cast of a dinosaur footprint in the ceiling, a museum with displays on local culture and history, and fading San rock art nearby. To get here, take the signposted turn-off near the Masitise Primary School and follow the road about 1km back past the small red church. At the neighbouring house you can ask for the key from the caretaker, the church pastor. From here, the museum is three minutes further on foot.
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Leribe's main sight is this crumbling gun tower near the market. It was built for the Gun War in the late 1800s, but spent most of its career as a storehouse for government records. The tower is not open to visitors.
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On the hill above Lower Quthing, overlooking the Senqu (Orange) River gorge, this former colonial administrative centre has good views and gently dilapidated buildings. Walk or catch a shared taxi up from Lower Quthing to escape the hustle and bustle and have a quiet stroll.