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The Izu Peninsula (伊豆半島, Izu-hantō), about 100km southwest of Tokyo in Shizuoka Prefecture, is where the famed Kurofune (Black Ships) of US Commodore Perry dropped anchor in 1854. Contemporary Izu has a cool surfer vibe, lush greenery, rugged coastlines and abundant onsen. Weekends and holidays see crowds descend on the east coast, particularly in summer. It's generally quieter on the west coast, which lacks a railway but has, weather permitting, Mt Fuji views over Suruga-wan (Suruga Bay).
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Izu Peninsula.
Street
It takes less than 10 minutes to walk end-to-end of this quaint cobbled street shadowing a narrow stream leading to Ryōsen-ji temple. However, the appealing ambience of old houses under willow trees now occupied by cafes, jazz bars, boutique shops and restaurants will encourage you to linger.
Area
A cliffside hiking trail winds over volcanic rock and through pine forest along the gorgeous Jōgasaki coast south of Itō. Most visitors head to Kadowaki Lighthouse and the adjacent Kadowaki-no-Umi suspension bridge 23m above the waves; from there you can hike south 6km or so to Izu-Kōgen Station, or stop halfway at the New York Lamp Museum and bus back. From Itō Station, take the bus to Jōgasaki-guchi (¥700, 40 minutes) and walk the 1.2km to the lighthouse.
Architecture
Resembling a parasol of cyprus and glass perched on a cliff above the ocean, this remarkable cafe space is the work of superstar architect Kengo Kuma (designer of the 2020 Tokyo Olympic stadium). You'll find it in the Akao Herb and Rose Garden, 5km south of Atami. The 'Yu-Yu' tourist bus stops here on its loop of Atami's sights.
Buddhist Temple
In the middle of the village is its namesake temple, said to have been founded over 1200 years ago by Kōbō Daishi, the priest credited with spreading Buddhism throughout much of Japan. Zazen (zen meditation) sessions take place on Tuesdays at 9.30am (one hour) and are free to participate in.
Buddhist Temple
A 15-minute walk south of Shimoda Station is Ryōsen-ji, site of the treaty that opened Shimoda, signed by Commodore Perry and representatives of the Tokugawa shogunate. The temple's Museum of the Black Ship stands streetside, with the temple beyond. Just beyond the temple's east gate at Perry Rd, a set of steps takes you up to Chōraku-ji, where a Russo-Japanese treaty was signed in 1854; look for the cemetery and namako-kabe (black-and-white lattice-patterned) walls.
Historic Building
This grand inn (c 1928) is now a national monument for its fine woodwork. Each of its three storeys was designed by a different master carpenter; architecture buffs will love comparing the styles. A highlight is the Grand Hall on the 3rd floor, an ocean of tatami (120 mats!) flanked by stages. An additional ¥500 will let you take a dip in its onsen baths (weekends only).
Museum
A small but refined collection of Japanese and Chinese pottery, paintings and Buddhist treasures spanning a millenia awaits at this museum, built dramatically into the hillside like a Bond villain lair. Artefacts are beautifully displayed in tatami-lined alcoves, the result of a design makeover by artist Sugimoto Hiroshi, while walls of glass at various junctures confer dizzying sea views.
Mountain
Ten kilometres south of Itō is this dormant rice-bowl volcano, a perfectly smooth, steep-sided grassy mound. Ride the chairlift to the 580m summit where you can take in coastal views of Mt Fuji. There's a 1km walk around the crater, bizarrely enough with an archery centre in the middle. Take the bus bound for Shaboten Kōen and Ōmuroyama from Itō Station (¥710, 40 minutes).
Waterfall
Half an hour by bus from Shuzen-ji Station is this 25m waterfall in a ravine. Wasabi plants thrive in the river here; the roadstop gift shop sells tasty (and mild) wasabi soft-serve ice cream. You can also pick up the 3km Amagi Hiking Trail from the falls to the village of Yugashima Onsen, and catch the return bus from there.