Tokyo

Shinjuku is the biggest nightlife district in the land of the rising neon sun. There is truly something for everyone here, from the anachronistic shanty bars of Golden Gai, a favourite haunt of writers and artists; to the camp dance bars of Tokyo's gay quarter, Shinjuku-nichōme; and to the old-school izakaya (Japanese pub-eateries) of Shinjuku-sanchōme, where co-workers go to unwind after work. There are all-night karaoke parlours, jazz dens and hipster cocktail bars. The options are dizzying, the lights spellbinding and the whole show continues past dawn.

While the famous seafood market has moved to Toyosu, Tsukiji's lively market remains a treat. The area's focus is now Tsukiji Uogashi, a modern, L-shaped complex packed with fish and fresh produce stalls. Outside you can snack on treats from producers that sell tamago-yaki (rolled omelettes) and kamaboko (steamed fish paste) to top Tokyo restaurants; shop for professional-quality kitchen tools, such as hand-forged knives and bamboo steamer baskets; listen to the banter of the merchants and their regular customers; and bask in the energy of a storied, old-style, open-air market.

Tokyo’s willingness to experiment with contemporary architecture seems at odds with its practical approach to just about everything else. But Japan’s architects are among the most celebrated in the world and this city is their showcase. You can see examples of many of their works along the boulevard Omote-sandō in Harajuku, but also at museums, malls and maybe even your hotel. Tokyo has long been a source of inspiration for designers around the world; perhaps it will be for you, too.

Harajuku is the gathering point for Tokyo's diverse fashion tribes. Tightly packed shopping bazaar Takeshita-dōri is a beacon for teens all over Japan. Omote-sandō, a broad boulevard with high-end designer boutiques, draws polished divas. The backstreets of Harajuku form Tokyo's street-fashion laboratory; here's where you'll find the trendsetters, the peacocks and the style photographers who chronicle it all. More than a particular look, Harajuku symbolises an ethos of freedom of expression and (literal) transformation; shopping here is equal parts acquisition and inspiration.

Tokyo’s largest and most famous Shintō shrine feels a world away from the city. It’s reached via a long, rambling forest path marked by towering torii (entrance gates). The grounds are vast, enveloping the classic wooden shrine buildings and a landscaped garden in a thick coat of green. Meiji-jingū is a place of worship and a memorial to Emperor Meiji, but it’s also a place for traditional festivals and rituals, where weddings are held and milestones celebrated – something you might catch if you're lucky.

In a city where the sentiment 'new is better' goes almost unquestioned, Yanasen – the collective name for the neighbouring Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi districts – stand out for having a profound connection to the old. Having largely survived the Great Kantō Earthquake and the Allied firebombing during WWII, Yanasen has a high concentration of vintage wooden buildings and venerable temples and shrines. Discover its more charming corners on a free walking tour, which departs from the lovely former home of sculptor Asakura Fumio.

teamLab is Japan's most prominent digital-art collective, whose installations have appeared all over the world. At this new museum, opened in 2018 and the first devoted solely to their work, they've gathered many of these installations (and added some new ones) to create a totally immersive, interactive art experience unlike anything else. Weaving together several worlds, it's surprisingly delightful and makes for some great photos. Digital art in general is trending in Tokyo, and you'll see it worked into other attractions around the city.

The spiritual home of Tokyo's ancestors, this Buddhist temple was founded over 1000 years before the city got its start. Today it retains an alluring, lively atmosphere redolent of Edo (old Tokyo) and the merchant quarters of yesteryear. The colourful Nakamise-dōri arcade approaching the temple complex overflows with vendors selling snacks and souvenirs. The main plaza holds a five-storey pagoda, renovated in 2017, and a smoking cauldron of incense. Altogether, Sensō-ji is a heady mix of secular and sacred, and one of Tokyo's most iconic sights.

The purifying salt sails into the air. The two giants leap up and crash into each other. A flurry of slapping and heaving ensues. Who will shove the other out of the sacred ring and move up in the ranks? From the ancient rituals to the thrill of the quick bouts, sumo is a fascinating spectacle. Tournaments take place in Tokyo in January, May and September; outside of tournament season you can catch an early-morning practice session at one of the stables where wrestlers live and train.

Come spring, thousands of cherry trees around the city burst into white and pink flowers. If Tokyoites have one moment to let their hair down en masse, this is it. They gather in parks and along river banks for sake-fuelled cherry-blossom-viewing parties called hanami. Grassy Yoyogi-kōen, one of the city's largest parks, is where you'll find some of the most spirited and elaborate bacchanals – complete with barbecues and turntables. Many revellers stay long past dark for yozakura (night blossoms).

Dramatic, intensely visual kabuki is Japan's most recognised art form. Kabuki developed in Tokyo, then known as Edo, during the 18th and 19th centuries, and an afternoon at the theatre has been a favourite local pastime ever since. Descendants of the great actors of the day still grace Tokyo stages, drawing devoted fans. Established in 1889, Kabukiza is Tokyo’s premier kabuki theatre. Renovated in 2013, the contemporary Kuma Kengō design preserved the showy traditional facade and includes a tower in which you’ll find a great teahouse and rooftop garden.

On a clear day, the perfect, snowcapped cone of Japan’s national symbol, Mt Fuji, is visible in the distance – putting all of Tokyo’s artificial monuments to shame. You can hunt for views from the observatories and restaurants that top many of the city’s highest buildings. Or head to the mountains west of Tokyo for a better look – an easy excursion from the capital. Even better yet, join the thousands of pilgrims who climb the sacred peak each summer. Watching the sunrise from the top is a profound, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

This is the Tokyo you’ve dreamed about and seen in movies: the frenetic pace, the mind-boggling crowds, the glowing lights and the giant video screens beaming larger-than-life celebrities over the streets. At Shibuya’s famous 'scramble' crossing, all of this comes together every time the light changes. It’s an awesome sight. Come during the day to get the perfect overhead shot from a nearby rooftop, or on a Friday or Saturday night when you'll find the whole scene turned up to 11.

This is the world's largest collection of Japanese art, home to gorgeous silken kimonos, evocative scroll paintings done in charcoal ink, earthy tea-ceremony pottery and haunting examples of samurai armour and swords. Even better: it's totally manageable to view in half a day and organised into easy-to-grasp, thoughtful exhibitions. The Tokyo National Museum also includes the enchanting Gallery of Hōryū-ji Treasures, a hall filled with dozens of spot-lit Buddha statues dating from the 7th century, as well as art and artefacts that span the Asian continent.

Venture into the belly of the pop culture beast that is Akihabara, the centre of Tokyo's otaku (geek) subculture. You don't have to obsess about manga or anime to enjoy this quirky neighbourhood: as otaku culture gains more and more influence on the culture at large, 'Akiba' is drawing more visitors who don't fit the stereotype. With its neon-bright electronics stores, retro arcades, cosplay cafes – and now the chance to drive go-karts through the streets – it's equal parts sensory overload, cultural mind-bender and just plain fun.

Even those unfamiliar with the magical world of master animator Miyazaki Hayao – creator of anime (Japanese animation) classics including Princess Mononoke and Spirited Away – will find this museum enchanting. Fans won't want to leave. Miyazaki designed the space himself and, like his films, it's filled with whirring steampunk-esque machines and fairy-tale structures. And while you won't see staff cosplaying (costume playing) any characters, many of the animated characters have been cleverly worked into the designs.