Nuttapoom Amornpashara / 500px
Central Honshū
Central Honshū (本州中部; Honshū Chūbu) is Japan's heartland, stretching out between the sprawling metropolises of Greater Tokyo and Kansai. The awesome Japan Alps rise sharply near the border of Gifu and Nagano Prefectures before rolling north to the dramatic Sea of Japan coast.
World-class skiing, hiking and onsen can be found in the region's stunning alpine uplands. All but one of Japan's 30 highest peaks (Mt Fuji) are here. Kanazawa oozes culture: temples and tearooms that served lords and housed geisha are beautifully preserved. Takayama's quaint riverside streetscapes win admirers from Japan and abroad. Matsumoto's magnificent castle and alpine backdrop ensure its popularity.
Nagoya, Japan's dynamic and under-loved fourth-largest city, is the gateway to Central Honshū, packing its share of urban delights, plus excellent transport connections to just about everywhere.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Central Honshū.
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Zuiryū-ji
One of Japan's National Treasures, the temple of the second generation of feudal lord Maeda Toshinaga's family is rightly famous for its manicured lawns, steep roofs, and all-round aesthetic that marries Indian and Japanese architectural styles. If you come just before 9am, there's every chance you'll have the place to yourself, with the exception of the temple deshi (apprentice), who'll be raking stones and opening shōji (sliding rice-paper-screen doors) before the day's visitors arrive.
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Kenroku-en
This Edo-period garden draws its name ( kenroku means 'combined six') from a renowned Sung-dynasty garden in China that dictated six attributes for perfection: seclusion, spaciousness, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and broad views. Kenroku-en has them all. Arrive before the crowds. It's believed that the garden, originally belonging to an outer villa of Kanazawa-jō, was developed from the 1620s to the 1840s and was so named in 1822. It was first opened to the public in 1871.
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Zenkō-ji
Founded in the 7th century, National Treasure Zenkō-ji is home to the revered statue Ikkō-Sanzon, said to be the first Buddhist image to arrive in Japan (AD 552). Not even 37 generations of emperors have seen the image, though millions of visitors flock here to view a copy every seven years during the Gokaichō Matsuri. Zenkō-ji's immense popularity stems partly from its liberal welcoming of pilgrims, regardless of gender, creed or religious belief. Its chief officiants are both a priest and a priestess. The current building dates from 1707. Any bus from stop 1 in front of Nagano Station's Zenkō-ji exit will get you to the temple (¥150, about 10 minutes); alight at the Daimon stop. It takes about 30 minutes to walk up Chūō-dōri from the station to the temple.
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Meiji-mura
Due to war, earthquakes and development, few Meiji-era buildings have survived here. In 1965 this open-air museum was created to preserve this unique style, known for unifying Western and Japanese architectural elements. Over 60 buildings from around Japan were painstakingly dismantled, transported and reassembled in this leafy lakeside location. Favourites include the entry facade of Frank Lloyd Wright's Tokyo Imperial Hotel, Kyoto's St Francis Xavier's Cathedral, and Sapporo's telephone exchange. Buses to Meiji-mura (¥420, 20 minutes) depart every 20 to 30 minutes from Inuyama Station's east exit. If you're driving, parking is ¥800.
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Matsumoto-jō
Must-see Matsumoto-jō is Japan's oldest wooden castle and one of four castles designated National Treasures – the others are Hikone, Himeji and Inuyama. The striking black-and-white three-turreted donjon (main keep) was completed around 1595, earning the nickname Karasu-jō (Crow Castle). You can climb steep steps all the way to the top, with impressive views and historical displays on each level. Don't miss the recently restored tsukimi yagura (moon-viewing pavilion). The Goodwill Guide Group offers free one-hour tours by reservation.
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Togakushi-jinja
Comprising three sub-shrines, Togakushi-Hōkōsha, Togakushi-Chūsha and Togakushi-Okusha, each a few kilometres apart, Togakushi-jinja honours the 1911m-high Togakushi-san. According to legend, the mountain is where sun goddess Amaterasu hid in a cave behind a stone door, plunging the world into darkness, before another deity flung the door away, luring her out and restoring light. Chūsha, located in the middle of the village, is the easiest shrine to get to.
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Gyokusen Inmaru Garden
Adjacent to the Kanazawa Castle Park, this feudal pleasure garden was first constructed in 1634 but abandoned in the Meiji era. Its five-year reconstruction was completed in 2015. Features include a small waterfall, bridges and many traditional elements. While the garden's focal point is the Gyokusen-an Rest House, it's the overall picture of beauty and refinement that impresses most. The garden and teahouse are illuminated spectacularly on Friday and Saturday evenings between sunset and 9pm – have your camera at the ready.
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Chihiro Art Museum Azumino
This popular art museum showcases the work of Chihiro Iwasaki (1918–74), who became world-renowned while specialising in children's-book illustrations from the late 1950s until her death in 1974. Built in Azumino because Chihiro's parents came from Nagano, the museum is surrounded by a gorgeous park and is best accessed from Shinano-Matsukawa Station on the JR Ōito line. Its sister museum is the Chihiro Art Museum Tokyo, built on the site where the illustrator lived and worked in the capital.
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Kita-ke
During the Edo period the Kita family administered over 200 villages from Kita-ke, the pivotal crossroads of the Kaga, Etchū and Noto fiefs. Inside this splendid, sprawling family home and museum are displays of weapons, ceramics, farming tools, fine and folk art, and documents. The garden has been called the Moss Temple of Noto. It's about 1km from the Komedashi exit on the Noto Yūryo (Noto Toll Rd). By train, take the JR Nanao line to Menden Station and walk for 20 minutes.