West Bengal
A sliver of fertile and densely populated land running from the tea-draped Himalayan foothills to the steamy mangroves of the Bay of Bengal, West Bengal presents a remarkable range of destinations and experiences within a single state. In the tropical southern areas, the wildlife-rich, mangrove-lined waterways of the Sundarbans vie for attention with Bishnupur's ornate terracotta Hindu temples and the cultured, arty vibes of Shantiniketan. Upstream from Kolkata (Calcutta) on the Hooghly River (a branch of the Ganges) you'll reach old European trading towns and three former Bengali capitals at Murshidabad, Gaur and Pandua. The cool northern hills are home not just to British colonialist hill stations like bustling Darjeeling and more laid-back Kalimpong, but also to fantastic vistas of massive Khangchendzonga, rolling green tea estates, some great hiking and the huffing and puffing 'toy trains' of the almost 140-year-old Darjeeling Himalayan Railway.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout West Bengal.
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Makaibari
If you like tea, you should visit this celebrated organic and biodynamic Darjeeling tea estate. Walk-in visits to the processing factory, with huge sorting and drying machines, typically last 30 to 45 minutes (mornings before 9am are the best time to see the production process). For a more in-depth experience, reserve a day ahead through Makaibari Homestays for a day tour, which includes a factory visit, a plantation walk with tea plucking, lunch in a local homestay, and tea tasting.
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Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, known affectionately as the toy train, made its first journey along its precipice-topping, 2ft-wide tracks in 1881 and is one of the few hill railways still operating in India. It has had Unesco World Heritage listing since 1999. Two-hour 'joy rides' from Darjeeling to Ghum and back satisfy most people's toy-train urges. There are normally around six of these pulled by antique steam locomotives daily, and three or so with diesel engines.
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Singalila National Park
Singalila National Park covers the Indian side of the scenic Singalila Ridge, the Darjeeling region's finest trekking area, along the India–Nepal border west of Darjeeling. As well as providing fantastic views of the eastern Himalaya, the park is home to extensive rhododendron forests, a gorgeous site when blooming in late April and May. The most used park entry point is near Tumling, on the road from Mane Bhanjang, 25km from Darjeeling, to Sandakphu.
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Sundarbans Tiger Reserve
The 2585-sq-km Sundarbans Tiger Reserve has 100-plus Royal Bengal tigers lurking in its impenetrable mangrove forests and sometimes swimming its delta channels. Other residents of the forest include Gangetic dolphins, water monitors, 5m-long saltwater crocodiles and luminiscent kingfishers. Entry and guide fees, payable at the reserve's Sajnekhali Ecotourism Centre, depend on which areas you are visiting. If you're on an organised trip from Kolkata, they are normally included in your price.
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Hazarduari
Literally meaning 'house of 1000 doors', the Hazarduari was built in very English Neoclassical style for Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah in 1829–37. Not all of its 1000 doors are real, though: some are just motifs on walls. The palace houses an astonishing collection of antiquities, and its compound is also home to the beautiful Nizamat Imambara (1847), a clock tower, and two elegant Medina Mosques (one between the Hazarduari and Imambara, another inside the Imambara).
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Uttarayan Complex
Ranged around tree-lined avenues, gravelled courtyards and exotic gardens, the Uttarayan Complex, in the heart of the Visva-Bharati campus, includes five architecturally very varied houses, from art deco to rural Bengal, in which Rabindranath Tagore lived at different times and did a lot of his writing. Also here is a museum of Tagore exhibits and memorabilia (including his ancient Humber car).
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Eklakhi Mausoleum
The large, beautiful Eklakhi Mausoleum at Pandua gets its name from the reputed ₹1 lakh (₹100,000) cost of building it back in 1431. It's a domed brick square with an octagonal interior chamber and exquisite tile and brick ornamentation on the outside. The three tombs inside are thought to be those of Sultan Jalaluddin and his wife and son.
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Adina Masjid
The vast Adina Masjid, just west off NH12 (old NH34), 19km north of Malda, was India’s largest mosque when constructed by Sikandar Shah in the 14th century. It originally had nearly 400 small domes and some 90 brick arches.
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Jor Bangla Temple
The 'twin hut' structure of Jor Bangla is covered in particularly exquisite terracotta ornamentation.