Stacked haphazardly above the fourth gate to Jaisalmer Fort, the Fort Palace Museum (02992-252981; entry incl audioguide ₹600) is the city's most important royal residence, divided into the maharaja's palace, with ornate open balconies, and the lattice-screened queen's palace. The marble throne beside the entrance was used for public ceremonies, while red handprints on the wall mark heart-rending occasions when royal wives died on their husband's funeral pyres.
Inside, cramped stone passageways weave between royal chambers displaying a small collection of medieval weapons, historic photos, thrones and the family tree of the Bhati clan, which boldly claims lineage all the way back to the Hindu god Krishna.
Highlights include the mirrored and painted Rang Mahal – which includes the bedroom of 18th-century ruler Mulraj II – and 15th-century sculptures donated by Jaisalmer's medieval temple-builders. There are spectacular 360-degree views from the rooftop over the city and the desert beyond.
One room contains an intriguing display of stamps from the former Rajput states. On the eastern wall of the palace is a sculpted pavilion-style balcony. Here drummers raised the alarm when the fort was under siege. The rounded boulders stacked up on the battlements were intended to be rained down onto invading armies, while the low palace doorways were built to force visitors and attendants to adopt a humble pose in case the maharwal (ruler) was in the next room.
Much of the palace is open to the public – floor upon floor of small rooms provide a fascinating sense of how such buildings were designed for spying on the outside world.
The worthwhile 1½-hour audio-guide tour (available in six languages) is included with the entry fee, but you must leave a ₹2000 deposit, or your passport, driver’s license or credit card.
