This is a beautiful restored haveli, full of Mughal atmosphere and centred on a courtyard. Rooms have grandiose polished-wood beds, but it's worth paying for a larger room, as the smallest are a little cramped. The excellent restaurant, Lakhori, serves historic Mughal recipes, there's kathak dancing Friday and Sunday evenings, and high tea (4pm to 6pm) served daily on the roof terrace.
You can also watch the traditional local pursuits of kabootar bazi (pigeon flying) and patang bazi (kite flying) from the rooftop.