Justin Foulkes
Undisputed gem of the northeast, Mývatn (pronounced mee-vaht) lake and the surrounding area are starkly beautiful, an otherworldly terrain of spluttering mudpots, weird lava formations, steaming fumaroles and volcanic craters, set around a bird-filled lake.
The Mývatn basin sits squarely on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and the violent geological character of the area has produced a jam-packed landscape unlike anywhere else in the country.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Mývatn Region.
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The giant jagged lava field at Dimmuborgir (literally ‘Dark Castles’) is one of the most fascinating flows in the country. A series of nontaxing, colour-coded walking trails runs through the easily anthropomorphised landscape. The most popular path is the easy Church Circle (2.3km). Check with the visitor centre in Reykjahlíð or at the cafe at Dimmuborgir about free guided ranger walks in summer.
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The dramatic lava cave at Lofthellir is a stunning destination, with magnificent natural ice sculptures dominating the interior. Although it's one of Mývatn’s highlights, the cave is on private property and can only be accessed on a half-day tour with Geo Travel. The tour involves a one-hour 4WD journey and a 25-minute walk across gorgeous lava fields to reach the cave, and then the donning of special equipment (headlamps, studded boots etc) and intensely physical wriggling through tight spaces. Wear warm, waterproof gear.
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Dominating the lava fields on the eastern edge of Mývatn is the classic tephra ring Hverfjall (also called Hverfell). This near-symmetrical crater appeared 2700 years ago in a cataclysmic eruption. Rising 452m from the ground and stretching 1040m across, it is a massive and awe-inspiring landmark in Mývatn.
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Krafla’s most impressive, and potentially most dangerous, attraction is the Leirhnjúkur crater and its solfataras, which originally appeared in 1727, starting out as a lava fountain and spouting molten material for two years before subsiding. A well-defined track leads northwest to Leirhnjúkur from the Krafla parking area (which has toilets); with all the volcanic activity, high temperatures, bubbling mudpots and steaming vents, it's best not to stray from the marked paths.
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For superb birdwatching background, visit Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum, housed in a beautiful lakeside building that fuses modern design with traditional turf house. Inside you’ll find an impressive collection of taxidermic avians (more than 180 types from around the world), including every species of bird that calls Iceland home (except one – the grey phalarope). Detailed captions, designer lighting and a small cafe further enhance the experience.
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The magical, ochre-toned world of Hverir (also called Hverarönd) is a lunar-like landscape of mud cauldrons, steaming vents, radiant mineral deposits and piping fumaroles. Belching mudpots and the powerful stench of sulphur may not sound enticing, but Hverir’s ethereal allure grips every passer-by. Safe trails through the features have been delineated by ropes; to avoid risk of serious injury and damage to the natural features, avoid any lighter-coloured soil and respect the ropes.
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The Skútustaðagígar pseudocraters were formed when molten lava flowed into Mývatn lake, triggering a series of gas explosions. These dramatic green dimples then came into being when trapped subsurface water boiled and popped, forming small scoria cones and craters. The most accessible pseudocrater swarm is located along a short path just across from Skútustaðir, which also takes in the nearby pond, Stakhólstjörn, a haven for nesting waterfowl.
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The ochre crater of Víti reveals a secret when you reach its rim – a cerulean pool of floodwater at its heart. The 300m-wide explosion crater was created in 1724 at the beginning of the destructive Mývatn Fires. There is a circular path from the car park around the rim.
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Vaporous vents cover the pinky-orange Námafjall ridge, which lies 3km east of Bjarnarflag on the south side of the Ring Road. Produced by a fissure eruption, the ridge sits squarely on the spreading zone of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. As you travel east through the Námaskarð pass and tumble down its far side, you enter the alien world of Hverir.