Evia, Greece’s second-largest island after Crete, is mostly off the tourist map, with many visitors using it to nip off to smaller and more obviously enticing islands. Take some time here, though, and you'll find it offers glorious mountain roads, challenging treks, major archaeological finds and many uncrowded beaches. A north–south mountainous spine divides the island’s eastern cliffs from the gentler and resort-friendly west coast.
Ferries link the island to the mainland, along with two bridges at humdrum Halkida. One of these bridges is a sliding drawbridge (the original span dates from 410 BC) over the narrow Evripos Channel, which reverses direction about seven times daily, an event whose full explanation has eluded observers since Aristotle, and was dreaded by ancient mariners.