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Evia, Greece’s second-largest island after Crete, remains largely off the tourist map, with most foreign visitors using it to nip off to smaller and more obviously enticing nearby islands. Take some time here, though, and you'll find it unveils glorious mountain roads, rewarding treks, rippling vineyards, major archaeological finds and plenty of uncrowded beaches – all of which of make it a popular escape for Athenians and other mainlanders. A north–south mountainous spine divides the island’s eastern cliffs from the gentler and more resort-friendly west coast, with just one main road linking its distinct northern, central and southern sections.

Ferries connect Evia to the mainland, along with two bridges at humdrum capital Halkida, perched on the narrowest point of the Evripos Channel.