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Evia

Evia, Greece’s second-largest island after Crete, remains largely off the tourist map, with most foreign visitors using it to nip off to smaller and more obviously enticing nearby islands. Take some time here, though, and you'll find it unveils glorious mountain roads, rewarding treks, rippling vineyards, major archaeological finds and plenty of uncrowded beaches – all of which of make it a popular escape for Athenians and other mainlanders. A north–south mountainous spine divides the island’s eastern cliffs from the gentler and more resort-friendly west coast, with just one main road linking its distinct northern, central and southern sections.

Ferries connect Evia to the mainland, along with two bridges at humdrum capital Halkida, perched on the narrowest point of the Evripos Channel.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Evia.

Archaeological Site
Ancient Eretria
Ancient Eretria was a major maritime power with an eminent school of philosophy, and was destroyed in 87 BC by the Roman commander Sylla. Its scant but fascinating ruins lie scattered around town; pick up a map at the Archaeological Museum. Southwest of the ancient hilltop acropolis (north of the main road) are the remains of a 5th-century-BC theatre and a 4th-century-BC temple; the most fascinating site is the House of Mosaics (370 BC), with pebble mosaics depicting mythological scenes.
Winery
Montofoli Estate
Spread across a 9-acre estate 2km north of Karystos, the Montofoli vineyard is famous for its prize-winning sweet dessert wines produced by owners Danae Karakosta and Konstantinos Papadimitriou, but also for being a major archaeological site dating back to Frankish rule. Book ahead for an in-depth tour followed by a tasting in the intimate cellar (originally a church), or join the free Saturday-evening summer tours.
Museum
Archaeological Museum of Eretria
This captivating museum displays the archaeological riches unearthed in Eretria since the 19th century, with information detailed in Greek and French. The signature pieces are the 4th-century-BC terracotta depiction of the mythical Medusa, whose tresses were turned into live serpents by the goddess Athena as revenge for Medusa's dalliance with Poseidon, and the 10th-century-BC clay Centaur of Lefkandi, found broken in two.
Convent
Moni Agios Nikolaos Galataki
One of the island's oldest convents, now home to six gently welcoming nuns, the splendidly positioned 16th-century Galataki convent lies 9km southeast of Limni. It is accessed via a narrow road that hugs a shimmering shoreline (with plenty of stops for a swim) before climbing steeply (the last sections unpaved) to hillsides that were badly damaged by fires at research time. The fine Entry of the Righteous into Paradise fresco adorns its katholikon (main church).
Winery
Vriniotis Winery
With vines trickling down to Edipsos Bay below, this 100-acre family-run winery 16km northwest of Loutra Edipsou specialises in wines produced from unique and ancient local grapes. Among these is the rare red Vradiano, found only in northern Evia. Owner Kostas leads 1½-hour tours and tastings; no reservations are necessary during summer months.
Winery
Avantis Wine Estate
With its roots in the 1830s, the innovative, award-winning family-owned Avantis estate, 5km southeast of Halkida, creates outstanding reds, whites and rosés from local and international grapes. It also makes a crisp Assyrtiko at its Santorini cellar door. Pop in for a tour and tasting (in Greek or English) – perhaps the nine-wine tasting 'Experience' with mezedhes (€35)!
Ruins
Roman Quarry
A 3km, one-hour walk signposted from upper Myli (4km north of Karystos) leads northeast to an abandoned Roman quarry (Kylindroi, meaning 'cylinder'), strewn with massive marble columns and developed between the 1st century BC and the 2nd century AD.
Museum
Archaeological Museum of Karystos
Karystos' small, insightful museum, opposite the Bourtzi, highlights the region's long history and ancient power. Displays, with multilingual booklets, range from tiny Neolithic clay lamps found on Mt Ohi to relics from the area's Roman quarries to a 4th-century-AD marble Aphrodite.
Museum
Archaeological Museum
This turn-of-the-20th-century building houses ancient artefacts uncovered in both Halkida and nearby Eretria, including a headless torso of Apollo dated to the Roman period. Other remarkable finds from this former powerhouse city include a Hellenistic-era beak-mouthed jug and two golden wreaths. Guided tours are available (€6).