The largest of the East Frisian Islands – once even larger before it was ripped apart by a flood in the 12th century – has a tough seafaring and whaling history. Reminders of those frontier times are the whalebones that you’ll occasionally see, stacked up side by side or as unusual garden fences. In 1830, however, locals realised that reinventing itself as a ‘seaside’ resort was a safer way to earn a living, and...
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