Chicago

The second-largest art museum in the country, the Art Institute houses a treasure trove from around the globe. The collection of impressionist and postimpressionist paintings is second only to those in France, and the number of surrealist works is tremendous. Wander the endless marble and glass corridors, and rooms stuffed with Japanese prints, Grecian urns, suits of armor, Grant Wood's American Gothic, Edward Hopper's Nighthawks and one very big, dotted Seurat. The Modern Wing dazzles with Picassos and Mirós.

The playful heart of the city, Millennium Park shines with whimsical public art. Go ahead, walk under Anish Kapoor's Cloud Gate – aka 'the Bean' – and touch its silvery smoothness. Let the human gargoyles of Jaume Plensa’s Crown Fountain gush water on you to cool down in summer. Unfurl a blanket by Frank Gehry's swooping silver band shell as the sun dips, wine corks pop and gorgeous music fills the twilight air. Or try to find the secret garden abloom with prairie flowers and a wee, gurgling river.

Who cares if all the backward neck-bending causes a little ache? There's no better way to feel Chicago's steely power than from low on the water looking up while cloud-poking towers glide by and iron bridges arch open to lead the way. The skyline takes on a surreal majesty as you float through its shadows on a river tour, and landmark after eye-popping landmark flash by. Guides' architecture lessons carry on the breeze, so you'll know your beaux art from International style by day's end.

In recent years chefs such as Grant Achatz, Rick Bayless, Stephanie Izard and many others put Chicago on the culinary map. They won a heap of James Beard awards, and suddenly international critics were dubbing Chicago one of the globe's top eating destinations. The beauty here is that even the buzziest restaurants are accessible: they're visionary yet traditional, pubby at the core and decently priced. You can also chow down on a terrific range of global eats in Chicago's neighborhoods, from Puerto Rican jibaritos (steak covered in garlicky mayo and served between thick, crispy-fried plantain slices, which form the ‘bread’) to Indian samosas to Polish pierogi.

A tangible sense of history comes alive at this 100-plus-year-old baseball park, thanks to the hand-turned scoreboard, iconic neon entrance sign, legendary curses and time-honored traditions that infuse games played here. Shoveling down hot dogs and drinking beer in the raucous bleachers makes for an unforgettable afternoon. The area around the stadium is like a big street festival on game days: young people party in alfresco bars, kids lick ice-cream cones, and die-hard fans occupy stools in age-old, sticky-floored taverns.

For superlative seekers, Willis Tower is it: the city's tallest building (and one of the world's loftiest). Breathe deeply during the ear-popping, 70-second elevator ride to the 103rd-floor Skydeck, then stride to one of the glass-enclosed ledges that jut out in midair. Look down some 1400ft. Crikey. The lakeside 875 N Michigan Ave building (formerly known as the Hancock Center) also rises high in the sky. Ascend to the 96th-floor Signature Lounge, order a cocktail and watch the city sparkle around you. It's especially lovely at night.

In Chicago no genre is as iconic as the blues – the electric blues, to be exact. When Muddy Waters and friends plugged in their amps c 1950, guitar grooves reached new decibel levels. Hear it in clubs around town, such as Buddy Guy's Legends, where the icon himself still takes the stage, or Rosa's Lounge, where it's a bit more down and dirty. The blues paved the way for rock and roll, so no surprise cool little clubs hosting edgy indie bands slouch on many a street corner.

A group of jokesters began performing intentionally unstructured skits in a Chicago bar a half century ago, and voilà – improv comedy was born. Second City still nurtures the best in the biz, though several other improv theaters also work from booze-fueled suggestions that the audience hollers up. Among the city's 200 theaters are powerhouse drama troupes such as Hollywood-star-laden Steppenwolf, and heaps of fringey, provocative 'off-Loop' companies, such as the Neo-Futurist Theater (which bases its admission cost on a dice roll).

You can't walk two blocks downtown without bumping into an extraordinary sculpture. The granddaddy is Picasso's untitled sculpture (what the heck is it – an Afghan hound?), set smack in Daley Plaza. Jean Dubuffet's abstract creation is officially titled Monument with Standing Beast but everyone calls it 'Snoopy in a Blender.' Marc Chagall's grand mosaic Four Seasons is more recognizable, depicting Chicago scenes. And Alexander Calder's hulking, red-pink Flamingo could indeed pass for its namesake, but only after you've had a few beers.

Stretching away from the skyline and into the blue of Lake Michigan, half-mile-long Navy Pier is one of Chicago’s most visited attractions. Its charms revolve around the cool breezes and sweet views, especially from the stomach-turning, 196ft Ferris wheel. High-tech rides, splash fountains, big boats and greasy snacks blow the minds of young ones. Live music, Shakespearean theater and whopping fireworks displays entertain everyone else. A smart renovation has added public plazas, performance spaces, art installations and free cultural programming.