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When all's said and done, Hamburg's appeal can be narrowed down to one simple calling card: Welcome to one of the coolest cities on earth.
Hamburg's historic label, ‘The gateway to the world’, might be a bold claim, but Germany’s second-largest city and biggest port has never been shy. A leading light in the Hanseatic League in the Middle Ages, Hamburg became a centre of international trade, a legacy that continues today: it remains one of Germany's wealthiest cities and Hamburg’s maritime spirit still infuses the entire city. It's the sort of city where echoes of the city's port and history are everywhere, from the incessant cry of gulls overhead to the vibrant neighbourhoods awash with multicultural eateries, seaward-facing architecture and the gloriously seedy Reeperbahn red-light district.
There was one consolation for locals when the city's authorities decided to blow the municipal budget: at least it was done for a new concert hall, the Elbphilharmonie. Hamburg's musical pedigree is staggering: Gustav Mahler once directed the city's 330-year-old state opera, while both Johannes Brahms and Felix Mendelssohn were born here. But it's not just about classical music. Hamburg also has very modern and rather raucous melodic soundtrack, not mention a compelling story. The city nurtured the early promise of the Beatles, and music festivals litter the calendar, while the dynamic live music scene just keeps getting better.
The Elbphilharmonie is an extraordinary structure, dominating the skyline and capturing in glass and brick the essence of Hamburg's polyglot soul. This striking icon of the city has elevated architecture to the centre of public debate and awareness, and it's just the most famous of a rather exciting collection. Office towers that appear as if they are dancing and buildings that from afar look like ocean liners share the streets with half-timbered relics of the medieval city. And only in Hamburg would they think of preserving a former WWII bunker and turning it into a nightclub.
The good people of Hamburg really know how to live. For a start, they've mastered the ingredients of culinary diversity: elevate your local specialties to the level of an obsession and treasure them, even as you remain open to all manner of gastronomic trends. The result is culinary excellence on multiple fronts. So, too, for nightlife: Hamburg is full to bursting with classy cocktail bars, dance-all-night clubs and neighbourhood bars and pubs that both reflect each neighbourhood's identity and define it. So successful are they that it's almost impossible to come to Hamburg and not have a really good time.
Hamburg's premier art gallery is a splendid place, and one of the best places in Germany to see the country's master painters. The collection strays beyond German shores and ranges across centuries from the Renaissance and all things medieval to the contemporary; the latter inhabits a suitably modern space. The stunning views from the big windows might distract you for a while, but in truth it can be difficult to take your eyes off the paintings, so rich is the collection.
It's rare that a single building can change the way a city projects itself to the world, but Hamburg's Elbphilharmonie has done just that. Architecturally breathtaking, the city's newly minted concert hall is, at one level, an extraordinary structure. But it is also a statement to the world that not only is Hamburg one of Europe's most musically rich cities, it's also perfectly happy for its classical music culture to sit comfortably alongside the grittiness of its port. And therein lies the essence of Hamburg's broad and rather rich appeal.
There are few more haunting reminders of the ravages of war than Mahnmal St-Nikolai. Its surviving steeple-without-a-church is the perfect monument to the destruction of war, while its museum tells an unflinching story of that same destruction wherever it make take place. A glass elevator takes you up to the tower's summit for superlative views of the city and its remarkable rebirth from the ashes. The views are our pick of the best in town, and we recommend you linger over the museum.
Most cities rest on their laurels early on a Sunday morning, but Hamburg in general, and St Pauli in particular, is still very much out and about from the night before. Joining 70,000 bleary-eyed locals and visitors for an early-morning trip to Hamburg's famous market is something of a Hamburg rite of passage, and a memorable way to pass your Sunday morning. Whether you're on your way home or just setting out, stop by, order a fischbrötchen (fish sandwich) and mingle with the broadest possible cross-section of Hamburg society.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Hamburg.
Whether it’s a guided tour of a historic landmark, private tasting of local delicacies, or an off-road adventure — explore the best experiences in Hamburg.
