The Black Forest
As deep, dark and delicious as its famous cherry gateau, the Black Forest gets its name from its canopy of evergreens. With deeply carved valleys, thick woodlands, luscious meadows, stout timber farmhouses and wispy waterfalls, it looks freshly minted for a kids' bedtime story. Wandering on its many miles of forest trails, you half expect to bump into a wicked witch or huntsman, and might kick yourself for not bringing those breadcrumbs to retrace your tracks…
Measuring 160km from top to bottom, the Black Forest is a ludicrously lovely expanse of hills, lakes and forest, topping out at 1493m Feldberg. It reaches from the spa town of Baden-Baden to the Swiss border, and from the Rhine almost to Lake Constance. This corner of the country is made for slow touring: on foot, by bicycle or behind the wheel of a car on one of many twisty roads with sensational views.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout The Black Forest.
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Freiburger Münster
With its lacy spires, cheeky gargoyles and intricate entrance portal, Freiburg’s 11th-century minster cuts an impressive figure above the central market square. It has dazzling kaleidoscopic stained-glass windows that were mostly financed by medieval guilds and a high altar with a masterful triptych by Dürer protégé Hans Baldung Grien. Square at the base, the tower becomes an octagon higher up and is crowned by a filigreed 116m-high spire. On clear days you can spy the Vosges Mountains in France. Closer to the ground, near the main portal in fact, note the medieval wall measurements used to ensure that merchandise (eg loaves of bread) were the requisite size. Note that the cathedral is closed for visits during services (exact times are available at the info desk inside).
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Museum Frieder Burda
A Joan Miró sculpture guards the front of this architecturally innovative gallery, designed by Richard Meier. The star-studded collection of modern and contemporary art features Picasso, Gerhard Richter and Jackson Pollock originals; these are complemented by temporary exhibitions. There are free short guided tours at noon, 2pm and 4pm on Saturdays. Previous temporary exhibitions include the light and space creations of American artist James Turrell; Die Brücke German expressionist works; and the colour-charged paintings of contemporary Indian artist Bharti Kher.
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Nationalpark Schwarzwald
An outdoor wonderland of heather-speckled moors, glacial cirque lakes, deep valleys, mountains and near-untouched coniferous forest, the Black Forest National Park is the Schwarzwald at its wildest and untamed best. Nature is left to its own devices in this 100-sq-km pocket in the northern Black Forest, tucked between Baden-Baden and Freudenstadt and centred on the Schwarzwaldhochstrasse (Black Forest Highway), the Murg Valley and Mummelsee. Hiking and cycling trails abound, as do discovery paths geared towards children. Stop at this visitor centre or at the National Park Centre in Ruhestein for the low-down and to pick up maps. Details of guided tours and online maps are also available on the website.
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Augustinermuseum
Dip into the past as represented by artists working from the Middle Ages to the 19th century at this superb museum in a sensitively modernised monastery. The Sculpture Hall on the ground floor is especially impressive for its fine medieval sculptures and masterpieces by Renaissance artists Hans Baldung Grien and Lucas Cranach the Elder. Head upstairs for eye-level views of mounted gargoyles. There is a cafe overlooking the cloister where you can sip a drink and soak up the monastic vibe. The ticket includes temporary exhibitions, displayed in the contemporary Haus der Graphischen Sammlung building, and is valid for all other museums in Freiburg.
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Schlossberg
The forested Schlossberg dominates Freiburg. Take the footpath opposite the Schwabentor, leading up through sun-dappled woods, or hitch a ride on the recently restored Schlossbergbahn cable car. For serious hikers, several trails begin here including those to St Peter (17km) and Kandel (25km). The little peak is topped by the ice-cream-cone-shaped Aussichtsturm (lookout tower). From here, Freiburg spreads photogenically before you – the spire of the Münster soaring above a jumble of red gables, framed by the dark hills of the Black Forest.
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Casino
The sublime casino seeks to emulate – indeed, outdo – the gilded, chandelier-lit splendour of Versailles. Marlene Dietrich called it ‘the most beautiful casino in the world’. Gents must wear a jacket and tie. If you’re not much of a gambler and want to simply marvel at the opulence, hook onto a 40-minute guided tour. Under the same roof is super-stylish restaurant The Grill and upscale club Bernstein, where the dance floor heaves with beautiful people.
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Mummelsee
This glacial cirque lake makes a beautiful splash on a vast tract of forest. Lore has it that a king and nymphs dwell in its inky depths – and indeed the lake is pure Grimms' fairy-tale stuff. You can pedal across it by boat or stroll its shores. Should you want to ramble further, you can hike 1.5km up to Hornisgrinde (1164m), the highest peak in these parts, commanding far-reaching views over the rippling Black Forest from its lookout tower.
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Lichtentaler Allee
This 2.3km ribbon of greenery, threading from Goetheplatz to Kloster Lichtenthal, is quite a picture: studded with fountains and sculptures and carpeted with flowers (crocuses and daffodils in spring, magnolias, roses and azaleas in summer). Shadowing the sprightly Oosbach River, its promenade and bridges are made for aimless ambling. The avenue concludes at the Kloster Lichtenthal.
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St Stephansmünster
Plonked on a hill above the centre for all to behold in wonder, the Romanesque and Gothic St Stephansmünster shelters a faded fresco cycle, Martin Schongauer’s The Last Judgment (1491), and a magnificent altar triptych (1526) carved from linden wood. From the tree-shaded square outside, the Schänzletreppe steps lead down to the Gutgesellentor, the gate where Pope John XXIII was scandalously caught fleeing the Council of Constance in 1415.