Austria’s second-largest city is its most relaxed and an instant heart-stealer, with abundant parkland, a sea of red rooftops and a narrow but fast-flowing river loudly gushing through its centre. A very beautiful bluff – connected to the centre by steps, a funicular and a glass lift – is the city's signature attribute. Architecturally, Graz hints at nearby Italy with its Renaissance courtyards and baroque palaces. That said, there's a youthful energy here too, with a handful of edgily modern buildings, a vibrant arts scene and upbeat, student-fuelled nightlife. This extends to both sides of the Mur, although the Lend district, across from the historic centre, skews young and edgy.
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