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The sunniest part of Denmark, Bornholm lies way out in the Baltic Sea, 200km east of Copenhagen (and closer to Sweden and Poland than to mainland Denmark). But it’s not just (relatively) sunny skies that draw the hordes each year. Mother Nature was in a particularly good mood when creating this Baltic beauty, bestowing on it rocky cliffs, leafy forests, bleach-white beaches and a pure, ethereal light that painters do their best to capture.
Humankind added the beguiling details, from medieval fortress ruins and thatched fishing villages, to the iconic rundekirke (round churches) and contemporary Bornholms Kunstmuseum. The island’s ceramic and glassware artisans are famed throughout Denmark, as are its historic smokehouses and ever-expanding league of food artisans, doing brilliant things with local harvests. It’s no wonder that 600,000 people visit annually – and expect that number to increase as word continues to spread.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Bornholm.
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The impressive ruins of Hammershus Slot, dramatically perched on top of a cliff 74m above the sea, are the largest in Scandinavia. The castle was thought to have been built in the early 1300s, and a walk through the evocative site, enjoying the views, is a must for Bornholm visitors. The grounds are always open and admission is free. A smart new visitor centre is being built, sympathetic to the surrounds (opening 2018; likely with an admission fee for exhibits).
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Hammeren, the hammerhead-shaped crag of granite at the northern tip of Bornholm, is criss-crossed by walking trails leading through hillsides thick with purple heather. Some of the trails are inland, while others run along the coast. The whole area is a delight for people who enjoy nature walks.
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Occupying a svelte, modern building and overlooking sea, fields and (weather permitting) the distant isle of Christiansø, Bornholms Kunstmuseum echoes Copenhagen's Louisiana. Among its exhibits, the museum displays paintings by artists from the Bornholm School, including Olaf Rude, Oluf Høst and Edvard Weie, who painted during the first half of the 20th century. The grounds are a delight – take a walk past grazing highland cows to reach the photogenic Helligdomsklipperne, high and rugged rock formations by the sea.
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Built around 1150, Nylars Rundkirke is the most well-preserved and easily accessible round church in the Rønne area. Its central pillar is adorned with wonderful 13th-century frescoes, the oldest in Bornholm. The works depict scenes from the creation myth, including Adam and Eve’s expulsion from the Garden of Eden. The cylindrical nave has three storeys, the top one a watchman’s gallery that served as a defence lookout in medieval times.
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The largest and most impressive of Bornholm's round churches dates to at least 1150, and its seven buttresses and upper-level shooting positions give away its former role as a fortress. The roof was originally constructed with a flat top to serve as a battle platform, but the excessive weight this exerted on the walls saw it eventually replaced with its present conical one. The interior is largely whitewashed, although a swath of medieval frescoes has been uncovered and restored.
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NaturBornholm offers a terrific geological and biological narrative of the island spanning back to its fledgling days as a cooling slab of magma. The museum is packed with interesting facts and impressive interactive displays, making it especially popular with families. Aptly, the centre is perched atop the ancient fault line where Bornholm’s sandstone south is fused with its gneiss and granite north. The building itself was designed by Henning Larsen, whose claims to fame also include the Copenhagen Opera House.
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This 'Medieval Centre' re-creates a medieval fort and village, and gives the Danes another chance to do what they love best: dressing up in period costume and hitting each other with rubber swords. They also operate a smithy, tend fields, grind wheat in a water mill and perform other chores of yore throughout the summer months. In July the activity schedule is beefed up to include archery demonstrations and hands-on activities for children.
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A 17th-century citadel called Kastellet houses part of the Defence Museum, south of the town centre. There are extensive displays of guns, blades, bombs and military uniforms, but the historical context they are given is somewhat scant. Some brief explanatory notes in English are available from the ticket desk. There are especially large displays on the Nazi occupation of the island and on the bombing of Rønne and Nexø by the Soviets at the end of WWII.
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This folk/farm museum has a new addition, and a second name: 'Gaarden – Bornholms Madkulturhus'. It's a mouthful when translated (Bornholm's House of Food Culture), but it's an engaging place. You can visit the old farmhouse, see the sweet farm animals kept here, and admire the modern new building that hosts events like farmers markets and cooking courses. The store here is well worth a browse – loads of Bornholm-produced edibles are for sale.