Mark Read
Northern Dalmatia
Serving the classic Dalmatian cocktail of historic towns, jewel-like waters, rugged limestone mountains, sun-kissed islands, gorgeous climate and Mediterranean cuisine, this region is a holidaymaker's dream. Yet it's the cities and islands further south that hog all the limelight, leaving Northern Dalmatia, if not quite undiscovered, then certainly less overrun. Yachties can sail between unpopulated islands without a shred of development, lost in dreams of the Mediterranean of old, while hikers can wander lonely trails where bears and wolves still dwell, and explore three of Croatia's most impressive national parks, which shelter in the hinterland.
By contrast, Zadar is a cultured city rich in museums, Roman ruins, restaurants and hip bars. Summertime clubbers gravitate to Zrće Beach and Tisno, which together form the nucleus of Croatia’s premier clubbing scene.
Latest Stories from Northern Dalmatia
Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Northern Dalmatia.
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Plitvice Lakes National Park
By far Croatia's top natural attraction and the absolute highlight of Croatia's Adriatic hinterland, the Plitvice Lakes National Park is a glorious expanse of forested hills and turquoise lakes. Within the boundaries of this heavily forested national park, 16 crystalline lakes tumble into each other via a series of waterfalls and cascades. The mineral-rich waters carve through the rock, depositing tufa in continually changing formations. Clouds of butterflies drift above the 11 miles (18km) of wooden footbridges and pathways that snake around the edges and across the rumbling water. It's exquisitely scenic – so much so that in 1979 Unesco proclaimed it a World Heritage Site. The name is slightly misleading though, as it's not so much the lakes that are the attraction here but the hundreds of waterfalls that link them. Exploring the park From Entrance 2, the southernmost of the two entrances, it’s an easy amble down to the shore of 2.5-mile-long (4km) Kozjak Lake and P1 (a hut and boat stop). Surrounded by steep, forested slopes, Kozjak is the park's largest lake, and forms a boundary between the upper and lower valleys. It contains a small oval island composed of travertine. A good path runs along the lake’s eastern shore: follow it to reach the spectacular lower lakes – with forests, grottoes, steep cliffs and waterfalls – or take one of the regular free boats. Next is emerald Milanovac Lake, then the path runs below cliffs beside Gavanovac Lake. Above is the open-topped cavern of Šupljara, where there’s a lovely viewpoint over Plitvice’s lower reaches. A wooden walkway cuts across to the north bank, around reed-fringed Kaluđerovac Lake and past two towering sets of waterfalls. The second, the aptly named Veliki Slap, is the tallest in Croatia, with a 255ft (78m) drop. Follow the trails to see the cascades of Plitvice © Mark Read / Lonely Planet To explore the upper section of the lakes, return to P1 and follow the trails to Gradinsko Lake, bordered by reeds that often harbor nesting wild ducks. A series of cascades links Gradinsko to beautiful Galovac Lake, where an abundance of water has formed a series of ponds and falls. A set of concrete stairs over the falls, constructed long ago, has been covered by travertine, forming even more falls in a spectacular panorama. Several smaller lakes are topped by the larger Okrugljak Lake, supplied by two powerful waterfalls. Continuing upwards, you’ll come to Ciginovac Lake and, finally, Prošćansko Lake, surrounded by thick forests. Various combinations of boat, road train (a tourist bus with carriages) and hiking are available, depending on your level of fitness and the amount of time you have. A useful map is printed on the tickets and the information booths are extremely helpful. Spring and fall are the best times to visit © Mark Read / Lonely Planet When to visit While the park is beautiful year-round, spring and fall are the best times to visit. In spring and early summer the falls are flush with water, while in autumn the changing leaves put on a colorful display. Winter is also spectacular, although snow can limit access and the free park transport doesn't operate. Unquestionably the worst time to visit is in the peak months of July and August, when the falls reduce to a trickle, parking is problematic and the sheer volume of visitors can turn the walking tracks into a conga line and cause lengthy waits for the buses and boats that ferry people around the park. If you have limited time, focus on one section of the park © SJ Travel Photo and Video / Shutterstock Tickets and other practicalities Tickets must be purchased online at least one day in advance of your visit. The extraordinary natural beauty of the park merits a full day's exploration, but you can still experience a lot on a half-day trip from Zadar or Zagreb. You must be able to walk a fair distance to get the most out of the place. If you've got limited time, the upper lake section can be completed in two hours. The lower section takes about three, although it's best to start with the bus ride and end with the boat to save yourself a climb. Swimming is not permitted in any of the lakes. Hotels and campsites near Plitvice National Park The four hotels operated by the national park are relatively charmless institutions, but they're conveniently positioned right on the park's borders. There are also two campsites. Otherwise, there are excellent guesthouses within walking distance in surrounding villages. For a particularly atmospheric alternative, hunt for private rooms in tiny Korana, an idyllic village set by a gurgling stream and reached by a narrow road north of the Korana bridge. Read more: croatia's -national-parks-link" href="https://www.lonelyplanet.com/articles/best-national-parks-croatia">Exploring Croatia's national parks
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St James' Cathedral
The crowning architectural glory of the Dalmatian coast and the undisputed masterpiece of its principal designer, Juraj Dalmatinac, this World Heritage Site is worth a detour to see. It was constructed entirely of stone quarried from the islands of Brač, Korčula, Rab and Krk, and is reputed to be the world’s largest church built completely of stone without brick or wooden supports. The structure is also unique in that the interior shape corresponds exactly to the exterior. Dalmatinac was not the first (nor the last) architect to work on the cathedral. Construction began in 1431, but, after 10 years of toying with various Venetian builders, the city appointed Dalmatinac, a Zadar native, who increased the size of the building and transformed the conception of the church into a transitional Gothic-Renaissance style. The unusual domed-roof complex was completed after Dalmatinac’s death by Nikola Firentinac, who continued the facade in a pure Renaissance style. It was all finally completed in 1536. The cathedral's most unusual feature is the frieze of 71 heads on the exterior walls at the rear of the building. These portraits – placid, annoyed, comical, proud and fearful – almost appear to be caricatures but are depictions of ordinary 15th-century citizens. The building cost a great deal to construct, and it’s said that the stingier the individual, the grosser the caricature. Note also the Lion’s Portal on the northern side, created by Dalmatinac and Bonino da Milano, in which two lions support columns containing the figures of Adam and Eve, who appear to be excruciatingly embarrassed by their nakedness. Pick up the excellent brochure (available in various languages) as you enter the church; it provides a self-guided circuit of the many artworks and architectural features inside. A highlight is Dalmatinac’s extraordinary baptistery in the rear corner, with its exquisitely carved ceiling and font supported by three angels. Other interior artworks worth noting are the tomb of Bishop Šižigorić (by Dalmatinac), who supported the building of the cathedral; the altar painting of St Fabian and St Sebastian (by Filippo Zaniberti); and a particularly gruesome 15th-century Gothic crucifix (by Juraj Petrović).
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Sun Salutation
Another wacky and wonderful creation by Nikola Bašić (the local architect who designed the nearby Sea Organ), this 22m-wide circle set into the pavement is filled with 300 multilayered glass plates that collect the sun’s energy during the day. Together with the wave energy that makes the Sea Organ’s sound, it produces a trippy light show from sunset to sunrise that’s meant to simulate the solar system. It also collects enough energy to power the entire harbour-front lighting system. The place is packed with tourists, excited children and locals every night, especially at sunset, when the gorgeous sea views and the illuminated pavement make for a spectacular sight.
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Krka Monastery
This isn't just the most important Serbian Orthodox monastery in Croatia; it's one of the faith's most important sites full stop. Featuring a unique combination of Byzantine and Mediterranean architecture, it occupies a peaceful position above the river and a small lake. From mid-June to mid-October a national-park guide is at hand to show you around. At other times you're welcome to visit the church and wander the lakeside path. Dedicated to the Archangel Michael, the monastery was founded in 1345 by Jelena Šubić, the wife of a local Croatian noble and half-sister to Emperor Dušan of Serbia. However, its Christian origins are much older than that. Beneath the complex in a natural cave system are catacombs bearing early Christian graffiti, possibly from the 1st century. Local lore has it that this hidden church was visited by St Titus and possibly even St Paul. The guided tours only visit a small section of cave, where the graffiti and human bones can be seen; the cave system continues for at least 100m and possibly for a couple of kilometres. During the war of the 1990s, the monastery's substantial treasury – including priceless manuscripts and religious paraphernalia – was moved to Belgrade for safekeeping. A new museum has been constructed to display the items. The monastery itself was protected during the fighting by the UN. The complex is also home to the Serbian Orthodox church's oldest seminary. It reopened in 2001 and now has 50 theological students. From Roški Slap, boats to Krka Monastery leave by arrangement (2½ hours, April to October only).
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Sea Organ
Zadar’s incredible Sea Organ, designed by local architect Nikola Bašić, is unique. Set within the perforated stone stairs that descend into the sea is a system of pipes and whistles that exudes wistful sighs when the movement of the sea pushes air through it. The effect is hypnotic, the mellifluous tones increasing in volume when a boat or ferry passes by. You can swim from the steps off the promenade while listening to the sounds. This is a superb spot to peacefully watch the sun go down to the mesmerising tones of Zadar's most popular attraction.
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Krka National Park
Stretching from the western foot of the Dinaric Range into the sea near Šibenik, the 73km Krka River and its wonderful waterfalls define the landscape of Krka National Park. The waterfalls are a karstic phenomenon: over millennia river water has created a canyon up to 200m deep through limestone hills. It's the most dramatic natural sight in the region, but there are also several artificial sights within the park that are well worth the effort to reach. There are five main entrances to the park. As most people visit from Šibenik, the two most popular starting points are Skradin and Lozovac at the southern end. The other three entrances are at Roški Slap, Krka Monastery and Burnum, which can all be reached by car.
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Kornati National Park
Composed of 89 of the Kornati's 140 islands, Kornati National Park shelters part of the largest and densest archipelago in the Adriatic. Due to the typically karstic terrain, the islands are riddled with cracks, caves, grottoes and rugged cliffs. The evergreens and holm oaks that used to be found here were long ago burned down. Far from stripping the islands of their beauty, the deforestation has highlighted startling rock formations, whose stark whiteness against the deep-blue Adriatic is an eerie and wonderful sight. The two series of islands facing the open sea comprise Kornati National Park and have the most dramatically rugged coastline. Kornat is by far the largest island in the park, extending 25km in length but only 2.5km in width. Both the land and surrounding sea are protected. Fishing is strictly limited in order to allow the regeneration of fish shoals. The island of Piškera, also within the park, was inhabited during the Middle Ages and served as a fishing collection and storage point. The Kornati National Park Office is located in Murter, and is well stocked with information. Unless you have your own boat, you’ll have to book an excursion from Zadar, Sali, Šibenik, Split or another coastal city, or arrange a private transfer from Sali or Murter.
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Skradinski Buk
The highlight of Krka National Park, an hour-long loop follows boardwalks, connects little islands in the emerald-green, fish-filled river and terminates at the park's largest waterfall. Skradinski Buk's 800m-long cascade descends by almost 46m before crashing into the lower lake. Nearby, a cluster of historic mill cottages have been converted into craft workshops, souvenir stores and eateries. The whole area gets insanely busy in summer. Note that swimming is no longer allowed. From the Lozovac entrance, buses (free with park admission) shuttle visitors from the large car park (also free) down a serpentine road to Skradinski Buk. Neither the free boats nor the buses operate from November to February, but in those months you can drive right down to the falls.
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Mother of Mercy Franciscan Monastery
Upstream of Skradinski Buk waterfall the Krka River broadens into Lake Viskovac, a habitat for marsh birds. At its centre is a tree-fringed island, the perfect place for a monastery. Founded in the 14th century by Augustinian hermits, the monastery was expanded in 1445 by Franciscans escaping the Ottoman invasion of Bosnia. The church was extensively remodelled in the 17th century and the bell tower added in 1728. Boat trips head here from Skradinski Buk and include 30 minutes on the island.
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