Off Shiquan Jie, this pocket-sized garden (网师园, Wǎngshī Yuán) is considered one of Suzhou's best preserved. Laid out in the 12th century, it went to seed and was later restored in the 18th century as part of the home of a retired official turned fisherman (hence the name). In the 1920s, the famous painter Zhang Daqian and his brother Zhang Shanzi lived here with their pet tiger. A striking feature of the garden is the use of space: the labyrinth of courtyards, with windows framing other parts of the garden, is ingeniously designed to give the illusion of a much larger area.
Lit by twinkling lanterns, the garden stays open after dark, inviting visitors to enter a magical realm infused with heady scents of osmanthus and lotus. Delightfully, this most perfectly formed of Suzhou gardens adds the plucked arpeggios of the guqin, as musicians and artists stage traditional performances throughout the evening.
Surprises abound, like a graceful dance performance through the spotlit aperture of a moon gate, or Kun opera (a refined style native to Jiangsu) performed on a boat rowed across the garden’s pond. It’s all beautifully done, helped by the fact that this particular garden is one of the most charming in Suzhou, day or night.
Performances take place from 6:30 to 10pm nightly, with timed entry slots every 10 minutes or so. Staff at the entrance will help you register using your phone for the next available slot. Guides introduce each performance in Chinese only, but check with the garden directly in case English guides become available as international tourism picks up.
There are two ways to the south entry gate, with English signs and souvenir stalls marking the way: you can enter from the alley on Shiquan Jie; or via Kuojiatou Xiang (阔家头巷), an alley off Daichengqiao Lu (带成桥路).
