Meaning "Big Station" in Cantonese, Tai Kwun was Hong Kong’s Central Police Station before its rebirth as a heritage, dining and arts zone. At its heart is the old Parade Ground, which is lined with terrace restaurants and bars. Built in 1864, the Barrack Block is where you'll find the visitor center and main heritage exhibition, which explores the site's history. Don’t miss the popular 45-minute guided tour (book in advance online at taikwun.hk/en).
Next door, the Central Magistracy has a mocked-up courtroom where you can sit in on a case from old Hong Kong involving a drunk Brit and a rickshaw puller. Deeper into the complex are the various wings of Victoria Prison, where cramped cells preserve the wall scribblings of inmates alongside slick museum exhibits. Built as part of the site's renovation plans, JC Contemporary is a three-story art gallery designed by Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron. Art shows are also staged in the Police Headquarters Block at the front of the complex.
The heritage buildings were added from 1842 right up until the early 20th century, and the Barrack Block and Police Headquarters Block are interesting examples of colonial architecture, mixing neoclassical European elements with Chinese design influence. The complex became a declared monument in 1995.
It is well worth booking lunch at the Old Bailey restaurant inside JC Contemporary, or staying for a drink at Behind Bars, which has been fashioned out of old prison cells in E-Hall (Block 15).
Reach Tai Kwun by taking the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator, which connects via a footbridge.