Roughly at China’s cartographic bullseye, Gānsù’s elongated capital marks the halfway point for overlanders trekking across the country. Growing up on a strategic stretch of the Yellow River (Huáng Hé), and sitting between competing Chinese and Central Asian empires, Lánzhōu frequently changed hands. Trapped between mountains, modern Lánzhōu has frequent bad-air days when a grey sun sets anaemically over a hazy...
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