At China’s cartographic bullseye, Lánzhōu (兰州) marks the halfway point for overlanders trekking across the country. Growing up on a strategic stretch of the Yellow River (黄河; Huáng Hé), and sitting between competing Chinese and Central Asian empires, Gānsù’s elongated capital city frequently changed hands, reflected today in its mix of ethnic groups and cultures. These days, Lánzhōu is perhaps most well known for...
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