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Just 18km south of Santa Cruz is Candelaria, a charming small fishing village famed for its Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Candelaria, home to a wooden statue of the Virgin of Candelaria called the Black Madonna, the patron saint of the entire Canary archipelago. The town's name comes from an effigy of the Virgin holding a candlestick that was found on a beach by two Guanche goatherds in 1392. The town is particularly worth a visit on a Sunday, when the atmosphere takes on an almost-pilgrimage feel as locals throng to the church to attend mass, and the surrounding small shops, selling religious artefacts, flowers, souvenirs and similar, stay open all day. Don't bother visiting the drab modern adjacent resort of Las Caletillas, which has little to commend it aside from a decent-size black pebble beach.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Candelaria.
Church
This imposing domed church dates from 1959 and sits at the edge of the town centre, overlooking a rocky beach and flanked by a plaza where nine huge statues of Guanche warriors stand guard. The church has an enthralling interior as well as a palpable air of reverence, focused on the adoration of the Virgin of Candelaria. With its ornate decoration, the interior of the dome is an architectural highlight.
Museum
Just past the basilica, steps lead up the right-hand side to the signposted Centro Alfarero de Candelaria, a small and very informative pottery museum, where pots are still thrown by hand and without a wheel – the way it was most likely done by the Guanches. There's also a lovely shop where you buy the typical red pots, including the appealing jarra de vino (wine jug). There's an excellent 20-minute film that the attendant will start for you.