Belarus

Minsk will almost certainly surprise you. The capital of Belarus is, contrary to its dreary reputation, a progressive, modern and clean place. Fashionable cafes, impressive restaurants and crowded nightclubs vie for your attention, while sushi bars and art galleries have taken up residence in a city centre once totally remodelled to the tastes of Stalin. Despite the strong police presence and obedient citizenry, Minsk is a thoroughly pleasant place that's easy to become fond of.

Razed to the ground in WWII, Minsk has precious few buildings remaining from the pre-war years, and there are relatively few traditional sights in the city, save a clutch of worthwhile museums. Instead, there are myriad places of interest to anyone fascinated by the Soviet and Lukashenko periods and a wealth of cosmopolitan pursuits to keep you entertained come evening.

If you've already visited Minsk, you might think you've landed in another country when you get off the train in Brest. This prosperous and cosmopolitan border town looks far more to the neighbouring EU than to Minsk. It has plenty of charm and performed a massive DIY job on itself prior to its millennial celebrations in 2019.

The city's main sight is the Brest Fortress, a vast and moving WWII memorial. But there are also a few good museums, more than a few attractive churches and a lively central pedestrianised walking street, vul Savetskaya. The impressive Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park is also nearby.

Brest and the city of Hrodna to the north can now be visited visa-free for 10 days if arriving overland from Poland, provided you secure the proper paperwork.

The 16th-century Mir Castle, reflected magnificently in an adjoining pond, resembles something straight out of Disney. A recent renovation has the place looking simply lovely, with gorgeous grounds and impressively restored interiors that have been converted into a museum with beautifully done displays on the life and times of the Radziwills. Definitely splash out for the audioguide, which offers fascinating descriptions of more than 120 items.

The magical old buildings of Nyasvizh make it a great place to get in touch with Belarus' past – one that elsewhere has all too often been destroyed as the military campaigns of WWII flattened the country. This quiet but green and attractive town 120km southwest of Minsk is one of the oldest in the country, dating from the 13th century. It reached its zenith in the mid-16th century while owned by the mighty Radziwill magnates, who are responsible for building the castle that is the town's most outstanding attraction.

Unesco World Heritage Site Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park is the oldest wildlife refuge in Europe and the pride of Belarus. At the National Park headquarters in Kamyanyuki, 55km north of Brest, you can arrange to tour the park by bus, bicycle or private car, and you can spend the night at one of several comfortable hotels near the park entrance.

With plenty of intact pre-WW2 architecture, Hrodna (Grodno in Russian) is arguably Belarus' prettiest city. It has a decidedly European flavour, much of it derived from its central pedestrianised street, ironically named vul Savetskaya (Soviet St). The Soviets demolished many of the city's beautiful old churches after the war. Several have been rebuilt since, and their baroque profiles now dominate the central skyline.

Hrodna is a laid-back, friendly city with a host of good bars and cafes. You can visit the city overland from Poland or Lithuania without a visa, just play by the rules and do not wander outside the fairly limited confines of Hrodna district (rayon).

The historic city of Vitsebsk (known universally outside Belarus by its Russian name, Vitebsk) lies a short distance from the Russian border and almost 300km from Minsk. Vitsebsk was an important centre of Jewish culture when it was one of the major cities of the 'Pale of Settlement', where Jews were allowed to live in the Russian Empire.

The city was immortalised in the early work of Marc Chagall, the city's most famous son. He grew up and studied here before moving to St Petersburg, where his artistic career began to take off. Today it's an agreeable regional centre with pedestrianised vul Suvorova at its heart, along with several fine churches and museums, including two dedicated to Chagall.

One of the best-kept secrets in Belarus is this relatively untouched swath of marshes, swampland and floodplains emanating from the Pripyat River, about 250km due south of Minsk. The park headquarters are in the village of Lyaskavichy, in a complex that also includes a nature museum and a hotel. Make all your arrangements here. In late August or early September the whole area gets together for good clean country fun at the Polosye Festival in Lyaskavichy.