One of Azerbaijan’s most intriguing shrines, this complex is topped with a beautifully patterned Central Asian–style dome and has an interior spangled with polished-mirror mosaic facets. Most Azeris firmly believe that a wish made here will come true – and when it does they return in droves, offering suitable donations to show their gratitude. The holy man entombed here was not a scholar or a warrior but a 20th-century invalid whose 'blessing' was having bones so soft that he couldn't stand.
Visitors of all faiths are warmly welcomed, although some traditional Muslims consider this site heretical. At the back of the complex is a cemetery with a fascinating mix of Islamic, atheist and Christian graves. It's at the east end of Şüvəlan, around 4km east of central Mərdəkən. Bus 136 to/from Baku via Mərdəkən stops outside.
