The ultimate weekend in Lima, Peru

A desert city that welcomes visitors with an ocean breeze, Lima is anything but just another metropolis. Sure, Peru’s capital doesn’t always make the best first impression, but with curiosity and time to explore its surf-side calm, culinary brilliance and layered past, you begin to understand how over 10 million people call it home.

Lima was the first Latin American city I lived in, and it became my adoptive home for nearly a decade. A bike ride or run along the malecón (the coastal pathway) was my daily ritual, a reminder that amid the chaos of city life lies beauty – sometimes you just need to seek the rougher edges to find it. I’m always eager to return, drawn by new creative projects and the cultural and gastronomic movements flourishing in the most unexpected neighborhoods.

The best way to visit is to focus on one district a day, thus minimizing time getting around traffic-clogged streets and maximizing immersion in local haunts as well as Lima's top sights. Each day in this weekend-worthy itinerary focuses on one of the city’s most dynamic neighborhoods: the historic center, Miraflores and Barranco.

• When to arrive: Arrive early Thursday morning and leave Saturday night, as restaurants and museums fill up quickly on Sundays. February (the hottest month) and May (the tail end of the summer season) are ideal for clear skies and fewer crowds. 

• How to get from the airport: Shuttle bus Airport Express Lima departs every 30 minutes to the Miraflores district. Though rideshare apps are cheaper, the official airport taxis can be booked in person directly after exiting baggage claim.

• Getting around town: Most of Lima’s top districts are walkable and connected by the malecón. Use rideshare apps or the metropolitano (a rapid bus transit system) to get to Miraflores and Barranco from the historic center.

• Where to stay: Kaclla is a tranquil hostel in Miraflores with dorms for 12 US dollars (US$) and private rooms for US$30, while Ancestral Hostel in Barranco has a livelier atmosphere (US$12). Hotel España is located in a heritage building in the historic center (US$45). Hotel Tierra Viva Miraflores Larco has standard appeal (US$70). For the luxury-minded, stay in a restored mansion in Barranco’s Casa República (US$150–250) without paying the absurd rates of Hotel B (US$400 and up).

• What to pack: You'll want comfortable walking shoes, layers for Lima’s microclimates, a hat and sunscreen for summer sun, and a light jacket for cool evenings along the coast.

Day 1 

Morning 

Get acquainted with Lima’s history – and that of greater Peru – at Museo Larco, whose pre-Columbian collection spans 5000 years and over 45,000 artifacts. Opt for a guided tour so you can be impressed, not overwhelmed.

Though the on-site cafe is charming, explore specialty coffee shops in the surrounding Pueblo Libre neighborhood instead. Origen Tostadores and Abisinia Café both roast their own beans, with the former just a short walk from the museum and the latter further off the beaten path.

How to spend the day 

A butifarra (pork sandwich) and a national lager from Bar Cordano, one of Lima’s oldest taverns, is a tasty welcome to the historic center. A few steps away, the Monasterio de San Francisco offers one-hour tours through eerie catacombs. On the other side of the Plaza Mayor, you will want to check out the latest contemporary art expo at Museo Central (MUCEN). As you make your way over, eye the mismatched architectural styles in the main square, telling of Lima’s numerous rebuilds after devastating earthquakes. 

By now you’ve surely worked up a thirst. Try your hand at a pisco sour class at Museo Pisco or gulp down the oversized pisco sour at the historic Gran Bolivar hotel. 

Dinner 

As the birthplace of chifa (a Chinese-Peruvian culinary tradition), Lima’s Barrio Chino is the place to try this tasty fusion. The dim sum and crispy pato asado (roast duck) at Salón Capón are worth the wait. Or step into San Joy Lao, one of the oldest chifas (Chinese restaurants), and order the aeropuerto (equal parts stir-fried rice and noodles).

After dark 

The Circuito Mágico del Agua may be kitsch, but walking under rainbow-lit arches of water is undeniably fun. It’s also one of the few family-friendly activities outdoors at night.

Day 2

Morning

Set your alarm to arrive early at the pebbled beaches of Miraflores’ Costa Verde for a surf lesson or stroll beside the Pacific. I consider falling off a surfboard as a way to stay connected to the ocean – one of Lima’s defining features.

How to spend the day 

Maintain the beach vibes and brunch at Caleta Dolsa in Barranco. There are often lines of people waiting for a table, so keep La Panetteria as a well-deserved backup. 

Barranco can be walked end to end within 30 minutes, but you’ll want to make it a day by perusing some truly inspiring creative laboratories. The picturesque promenade Sáenz Peña has always been a favorite area of mine and not just because it’s home to art shop and gallery Dédalo as well as the Jade Rivera Museo. Sitting on one of the public benches, you can truly envision Barranco’s Republican past as a posh beach getaway. 

I can’t leave my old stomping grounds without ceviche apaltado (Peru’s classic marinated seafood dish topped with large chunks of avocado) from Canta Ranita, tucked in the back corner of the district market. 

For an afternoon dessert, book a chocolate tasting at El Cacaotal, a tiny shop with one of the biggest selections of Peruvian chocolates in the country. 

Dinner

Central may have been voted the world’s best restaurant by 50 Best in 2023 but a few minutes’ walk away (and on the opposite extreme of a traveler’s budget) is my all-time favorite when in Barranco: Burrito Bar. Made-to-order burritos and tacos, chips and salsa, and strong margaritas – you can afford to skip traditional Peruvian flavors for one meal while in Lima.

After dark

Peruvian wines are on the rise, as spotlighted in soft-lit wine bars Cordial and Perro Gato Pericote. Afterward you can get a feel for the local music scene at La Noche, but I’m usually in the mood for pistachio gelato from Blu and a walk along the malecón.

Day 3

Morning

Your final day calls for a market tour in Miraflores or Surquillo. Slurp down a generously portioned juice from stands that will blend whatever's in season. My personal favorite combo: papaya, mango and aguaymanto (golden berry).

How to spend the day 

Discover the magic of the side streets surrounding Miraflores’ central (and often overcrowded) Parque Kennedy. 

Grab a coffee from Milimetrica on Calle Alcanfores, then wander the tree-lined street to find Arcadia Mediatica, a zine- and design-focused bookstore. On the west side of the park is Yunuik, a boutique with a meaningful collection of quality artisan goods from Peru’s Amazon.

Follow the malecón to a garden inspired by the Nazca Lines. Stay for sunset or detour to the Fundación Museo Amano to get an eyeful of Peru’s fascinating textile history.

Dinner

My mouth waters at the thought of the native potato fries from La Lucha Sangucheria Criolla, a casual sandwich chain. If your standards are set higher, book a table at the underrated restaurant Matria, by Peruvian chef Arlette Eulert. Pair scallops with yuzu and slow-cooked osso bucco with a housemade soda – and don’t skip the Peruvian cacao tart for dessert.

After dark

Visit Huaca Pucllana, a massive adobe pyramid built around 500 CE by the pre-Inca Lima culture, on a unique night tour. 

By the time you finish, you’ll need to head to the airport. I know, it’s a shame there wasn’t time for one last pisco-based nightcap – all the more reason to return to Lima for one more salud!