15 things to know before visiting Samoa

There’s an argument to be made that no country in Polynesia is more “Polynesian” than Samoa. Where other islands within the Polynesian Triangle have been influenced by colonial powers, Samoa still runs under a system known as Faʻa Samoa, a deeply rooted cultural system based on respect for family, community, elders and customs.

Chiefs hold more power here than police and many locals still live the lifestyle they might have centuries ago. Nothing moves fast in Samoa, and it’s as peaceful a place as anything that exists in the entire Pacific. 

I grew up in Polynesia, but the Samoan version of Polynesia is the purest version I’ve ever encountered. Surrounded by tall green mountains and blue lagoons, life here feels about as dreamy as it gets. Locals still live in simple villages, sleeping in huts with no walls (called fales). And yet, there’s still plenty to do.

Samoa is about as close as you can get to the concept of paradise. Plan your visit with these tips on health, safety and etiquette.

Planning for your trip to Samoa

1. Opt for the shoulder season

Samoa has two clear seasons – a dry and a wet season. The dry season lasts from May to October, and while it’s the best time for weather, it’s also the busiest time to visit, and the most expensive. The wet season lasts from November to April and is the cheapest and quietest time to visit. It’s officially cyclone season, but there hasn’t been a major one in Samoa since 2012 (though, of course, that doesn’t mean they’re not a possibility). This can be a decent time to visit (afternoon storms don’t last too long), but consider the shoulder seasons of April and October for fewer crowds and more reliable weather.

2. Cash is still best

Most hotels and restaurants in the busier areas of Samoa take credit card (except American Express, in many instances), but once you get beyond the main tourist hubs, you will need to carry cash. There are safe and reliable ATMs around the airport and Apia, the capital, but there’s few beyond. Load up on cash here, or bring some with you, and don’t expect the vendors at the markets to accept an electronic transaction. The local currency is the Samoan tala (SAT).

3. Samoa has two main islands, not one

Most travelers really only know about Samoa’s most populated island, ʻUpolu, which is where the international airport is located. It’s the most developed of the two islands and is home to the bustling capital, Apia. But Savaiʻi – colloquially known as "the Big Island" because it’s 1.5 times bigger than ʻUpolu – is only an hour away by ferry. Don't miss it! It’s quieter and more traditional, and offers an even deeper look into ancient Samoan culture. Home to the largest shield volcano in the South Pacific, there are big mountains right beside the lagoon here. It’s easy to book accommodations online before you go, but bear in mind that many restaurants and cafes are very basic and won’t take credit card.

4. There are two different countries called Samoa

Samoa is an entirely different country from American Samoa, with about 150km of ocean between them. The islands were divided between Samoa’s original colonial power, Germany (Samoa has been independent since 1962), and the US in 1899.

American Samoa is harder to reach (except from Hawaiʻi), has less tourism infrastructure, more fast food outlets and has adopted American culture. It also uses the US dollar, and it’s much more expensive. American Samoa is equally as beautiful though, and if time allows, it’s worth the 35-minute flight by Samoa Airways that runs numerous times per day. Bear in mind, Samoa is 24 hours ahead of American Samoa (the International Date Line is between the two countries) and you’ll drive on the other side of the road. 

5. Samoa is big, so give yourself time to see it properly

A lot of islands through the South Pacific are bite-size and able to be explored in a few days. Samoa is not one of these island destinations. There’s so much to see here and you don’t want to miss out. Realistically, if you stick to ʻUpolu (though you should get to Savaiʻi) you’ll need at least a week and a half just to see the best of that island alone. There’s everything here from waterfall circuits; Lalomanu, one of the country's best beaches; and Samoa’s iconic 30m-deep sinkhole, To Sua Ocean Trench, a unique swimming hole surrounded by high rock cliffs.

6. Book a rental car

Unless you’d like to book a series of day tours, the easiest way to visit Samoa's best natural attractions is to drive to them yourself. There are plenty of reputable rental companies operating out of the international airport. You’ll need a temporary driving license from the Land Transport Authority, which can be organized through the car-rental company on presentation of your license from home.

Driving here is a part of the tourist experience – the limit is 40km/h through villages but you’ll want to drive much slower than that to observe village life as you pass through (and because chickens, pigs and dogs cross the road at will). No one speeds in Samoa, and even on the open road where the speed limit is 55km/h, you'll rarely see drivers going above 40km/h. It takes about five hours to drive the whole way around ʻUpolu.

7. Spend at least one night in a beach fale 

Nothing can be as Samoan as staying in a beach fale, a traditional thatched hut right by the sea with no walls. Many local families operate fale accommodations where you can experience simple island life. Meals are usually included, and they’re always delicious and home-cooked. Options range from big commercial fales, such as those on popular Lalomanu Beach, to tiny fales in isolated villages. Most beach fales have online listings, so you can book beforehand, though it’s worth keeping your eyes open as you tour the island for beach fales not listed online where you can make on-the-spot bookings.

8. English is spoken, but learning a few local phrases is appreciated

While Samoan is the official language of the country, English is taught widely throughout schools across Samoa. Most Samoans you’ll meet have excellent English, unless you're in a very remote part of the country or meeting with much older Samoan locals. Learn a few key phrases of Samoan before you go – locals will be delighted to hear it and might even welcome you like long-lost family.
Hello – talofa 
Thank you – fa’afetai
Goodbye – tofa

9. Don’t expect widespread wi-fi and cell phone signal

While many restaurants and cafés in Apia and fancier accommodations options offer wi-fi, beyond these places, internet access is limited and often slow. Mobile coverage is improving all the time, and you can buy a local SIM card for more reliable service, but be aware that you may be totally out of reach at numerous regions across ʻUpolu and in Savaiʻi.

Etiquette in Samoa

1. Respect Faʻa Samoa, the Samoan Way

Samoan society is a very traditional place that revolves around Faʻa Samoa, a cultural system based on respect for family, elders, customs and the chiefs who still run the villages of Samoa. Samoans are some of the friendliest people on Earth, and demonstrating respect for them and their traditions goes a long way.

Swimwear is perfectly acceptable at the beach, but don’t wear it in villages, where you should cover your knees and shoulders, and don’t take photos of locals without their express permission. Take your shoes off before you enter homes, don’t stand if you see elders sitting, and don’t point your toes at others when you sit – cover your feet with a lava-lava (sarong).

2. Sundays are for families and resting

In Samoa, Sunday is absolutely sacred. As a deeply Christian country, almost everything shuts down on Sundays, including shops and many restaurants and bars (the restaurants and bars in resorts are the exception). Don’t enter villages without permission on Sundays, but do get along to a local church service if you can, where you'll hear stunning hymns and harmonies sung within old coral-walled buildings. If you’re lucky, you’ll be invited along to a family feast after church, when families gather for lunch, digging into foods prepared in an underground oven, called an umu.

3. You may need to pay to swim

Many natural sites – like waterfalls, beaches and swimming holes – are on village land. A small entry fee (usually ST5–20) is usually collected by families to support local communities, so bring small notes and coins with you. It's all part of the Samoan tourist experience and a great opportunity to meet with local people who gather (and often sleep) by natural sites. They’re always keen for conversation and will help guide you to the best places to swim.

4. Set yourself onto sleep mode

You may have heard about island time, but Samoa takes it a step further. Here, sleep is a national pastime – if they gave out Olympic medals for snoozing, Samoans would take Gold, Silver and Bronze. In shops you’ll often find store assistants dozing, and as you walk by villages, you’ll see locals lying prone at all times of the day. Embrace the local custom of slumber and don’t be surprised to find the attendant at the airport parking lot is sound asleep (this has happened to me three times). If this happens to you, call out a soft "talofa" (hello) and wait for them to respond. Chances are, they'll wake from their light slumber. 

Safety in Samoa

1. Take precautions against mosquitoes

Outbreaks of mosquito-borne viruses like dengue fever and chikungunya do occur in Samoa, especially around the wetter months of summer. Wear mosquito repellent especially in villages, and clothes that cover your body. Be sure to close mosquito screens in your room or use the nets over your bed.

2. Be vigilant in Apia

Crime is almost nonexistent in Samoa, except in the capital, Apia. It’s not dangerous, but Apia is Samoa’s only genuine city (with a population of about 40,000) and most cities should be approached with a degree of caution after dark. Avoid walking by yourself late at night around Apia’s main bar district. Beyond the capital, locals live under the guidance of paramount chiefs in traditional villages, but Apia is a more modern metropolis with associated social issues.