4 days in Utah: a luxury ski trip

Utah’s landscape is made up of dramatic colors. While I typically picture the hot, dry orange of Zion and the desert, on a recent ski trip, I came to appreciate the rich greens and glimmering white hues of the Wasatch mountains. 

I started my trip at Deer Valley, the largest ski-only resort in the United States, before heading to Sundance Mountain Resort, which was founded by Robert Redford. Even if skiing isn’t your thing, with this itinerary you can take a dip in a hot spring, snowshoe to a yurt or spend the day at a spa. Winter awaits. 

This four-day itinerary highlights two top luxury ski resorts in Utah. 

• When to arrive: Arrive in the morning, preferably during the week if you can afford to take the days off. The flights tend to be cheaper, and the mountains are less crowded. 

• How to get from the airport: If you fly into Utah, renting a car is the easiest way to get around. Otherwise, you can use a ride-sharing or taxi service to get to the hotel. 

• Getting around town: Many hotels offer shuttle services to Park City’s downtown area. 

• Where to stay: I love a ski-in, ski-out resort, and I was lucky enough to stay at two on this trip. The Grand Hyatt Deer Valley is a massive property with its own ski entrance and lift. Meanwhile, Sundance Mountain Resort is a luxury boutique option with a Michelin key. At Sundance, ski down quieter slopes, stay in cozy cabins, take art classes or just enjoy the spa. 

• What to pack: Ski gear can be so technical and specific that it took me a while to curate items that are practical, useful and cute. For this trip, I packed a bib, jacket, base layers, a helmet and goggles (in pink, of course). 

Day 1 

Morning

Naturally, our first stop was for coffee. It was a quick 15-minute drive from the airport to Caputo’s Market & Deli, a local-favorite cafe with specialty sandwiches and salads. After you caffeinate, be sure to browse through their massive collection of ethically sourced chocolate bars, which make for a great souvenir or road-trip snack. 

How to spend the day

On the way to our hotel, we drove through Swig for a “dirty soda,” a viral Utah drink that adds flavored syrups to fountain sodas. Yes, it’s as sugary sweet as it sounds, so I recommend sharing a cup with a travel buddy. 

From there, we took the winding mountain roads up into the sugarcoated mountains to our first hotel. We spent the afternoon lounging around the Grand Hyatt Deer Valley, dipping into the hot tub and taking some horizontal time to rest. 

Dinner 

We changed into our ski pants, put on some waterproof boots and packed a scarf, because we were snowshoeing to a yurt for dinner! We started at Soldier Hollow Nordic Center, the cross-country skiing venue of the 2002 (and soon-to-be 2034) Olympics. We strapped into our snowshoes and grabbed our trekking poles before heading up the snowy hill and through the forest. 

The yurt was a warm refuge from the snow, with acoustic music and soft lighting. After having some winter salad, short rib and multiple servings of hot coca, we sat around the campfire to make s’mores. We snowshoed back to the starting point, ready for an early night before a long day of skiing.  

Day 2 

Morning 

For breakfast, I recommend ordering room service as soon as you wake up to ensure you have time to eat before heading to the slopes.

How to spend the day 

Deer Valley is one of three ski-only resorts in the area, and it’s the largest in the country. As a California native, I’m used to being outnumbered by snowboarders, so it was a nice change of pace. After riding down some of Deer Valley’s beautifully groomed trails, we warmed up with some steaming bowls of pho and chili in the food court. 

One of the most fun parts of the day was skiing back to our hotel. Deer Valley recently opened the longest ski trail in Utah, which is 4.85 miles and beginner-friendly. It ends right in the East Village, so we were able to just pop our skis off at the gear shop and head back to the hotel to defrost. 

Dinner 

After some hot showers, we reconvened in Remington Hall, the Grand Hyatt hotel’s restaurant that has views of the mountain and hearty dishes like lobster rolls, arrabbiata pasta and cheese whipped potatoes. We briefly stopped for a nightcap at the Hidden Ace, a whisky-focused cocktail bar tucked under the hotel. While the cocktails were delicious, I was completely wiped out from the day and happily wandered up to bed. 

Day 3 

Morning 

We woke up bright and early for some paddleboard yoga. Yes, you read that correctly. As it snowed outside, we went into the Homestead Crater, a 55-ft-tall and 400-ft wide beehive-shaped limestone formation. We crawled onto our paddleboards and were pushed out into the natural, geothermal hot spring. 

After yoga, we stopped in at the Milk House for some pastries and coffee before heading out to our next hotel. 

How to spend the day 

After another drive through the mountains, we pulled up to the Sundance Mountain Resort. We sat by the fireplace for lunch at Foundry Grill, where we indulged in some fresh salads, burgers and refreshing drinks. 

In the afternoon, we took a silversmithing class at the Sundance Art Studio. I made a ring with an opal gem, cutting the metal, soldering and polishing my own piece.

Dinner 

We had dinner in the Tree Room, an ode to Robert Redford’s vision for Sundance. The cabin was the first building at Sundance, and it was constructed around an actual tree. The decor is a mix of Indigenous art and pieces from Redford’s private collection, and the large windows look out to the mountains. The food matches the luxurious vibe, with seasonal soups, fresh salads and rich entrees. 

Day 4 

Morning 

I stopped at the deli for a quick breakfast before getting fitted for the day. When Sundance says it’s a ski-in, ski-out resort, they are not lying. It is a five-minute walk from the main area to the first lift. 

How to spend the day

Unlike most resorts, Sundance isn’t affiliated with any of the major passes, so the mountain is pretty uncrowded. 

On top of the mountain lies Sundance’s Bearclaw Cabin, which allegedly has one of the best lookout points of the Heber Valley. While I’m sure that’s true, I could barely see my own hands in the blizzard, so I guess I’ll have to go back for the view (oh no!). More importantly, it is the only place to get Sundance’s famous nachos, and you have to be able to get down by blue or black runs.

I quickly headed back to my cabin to change and get to the spa in time for my treatment. I had the complete renewal ritual, which included some body scrubbing and lymphatic massage. Afterwards, I had a cup of tea by the fire before collapsing in my cabin. 

Dinner 

The Owl Bar represents a slice of film history. The restored 1890s bar was once frequented by Butch Cassidy and his friends, and it was transported from Thermopolis, Wyoming, to Sundance. They host events throughout the year, including live music, specialty cocktails and other performances. 

We toasted to a successful trip and before digressing to our cozy cabins. 

Acacia Gabriel was a guest of the Utah Tourism Board. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.