The elegant art deco lobby of the Prince de Galles hotel in the 8th arrondisssement of Paris. Marriott
Like the city of Paris itself, art deco is elegant, assertive and timeless.
This famous design style marries grandeur with modernism, through jazzy yet refined geometric forms, rich materials and a certain confidence in its own sophistication. In Paris, it’s everywhere once you start looking: in the swoop of a staircase, the shimmer of a crystal light fitting, that perfect pattern of a mosaic floor.
And nowhere does it feel more alive than at the Prince de Galles, a hotel that so bespeaks this golden age of glamor you’ll want to order a perfectly chilled martini upon check-in.
Since the French do this sort of thing with such effortless flair, the 1929 hotel was treated to a meticulous revamp in 2013, preserving the original vision of architect André Arfvidson while adding a gentle, modern polish. Think gleaming surfaces, a respect for the property’s original elegance – and not a whiff of Pantone color. Just pure, glorious art deco.
With the exhibition that gave the already-emerging style its name marking its 100th anniversary this year, there’s no better time to consider the movement’s deep influence on design around the world – and nowhere more fitting than at a hotel that so proudly exemplifies the style.
As part of the centenary commemoration, Prince de Galles guests can take a brilliantly curated Unlocking Art Deco tour. The tour is led by Jacob Simpson, an architectural historian who specializes in the 20th century, who delivers the insights both expert and passionate.
Even better, the tour grants carte-blanche access to some of the city’s most iconic art deco landmarks. Here’s a peek at what anyone who signs up can expect.
Théâtre des Champs-Élysées
We start a short stroll from the Prince de Galles, in the 8th arrondissement. On the world-famous boulevard of the same name, the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées first opened in 1913 and – though it predates the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes – is considered Paris’s first true art deco building.
It’s one of those places that stops you in your tracks. You arrive expecting a stuffy, old-fashioned theater – and instead walk into a grand architectural masterpiece. This is thanks in no small part to Auguste Perret, the “poet of concrete” who gave it its backbone – literally – with the then-radical use of reinforced concrete. Perret’s contribution means there isn’t a single column obstructing the view of the stage.
Even after all these years, the space feels both classical and incredibly modern. Its current programming leans toward the classic – opera, ballet and recitals – but whatever your cultural preference, you will enjoy sitting in the auditorium for hours, soaking in its one-of-a-kind beauty and vibe.
Palais de Tokyo–Musée d’Art Moderne
Stop two on the Unlocking Art Deco tour is the gloriously moody Palais de Tokyo, directly across from the Eiffel Tower. As you approach the sweep of grand cascading terraces that skateboarders have laid claim to, you’ll come close to Grecian-style narrative reliefs. Constructed in an austere, peak-art-deco style, this complex reminds visitors that the style has a monumental and imposing mode, too.
Yet slip inside the east wing, and the atmosphere shifts entirely. This is home to the Musée d’Art Moderne and its dedicated art deco gallery, a serene, refined space that feels like stepping into a 1930s film set. It’s a treasure trove of the period’s opulence: think black lacquer, inlaid exotic woods and glossy finishes. Pride of place goes to the work of Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann, whose luxurious furniture – made from rare materials like animal skins and ebony – shows the exquisite craftsmanship of the time.
Palais d’Iéna
Next on the tour is Auguste Perret’s Palais d’Iéna. If the Musée d’Art Moderne exhibits art deco at it’s most seductive, the Palais d’Iéna is art deco at its most blunt and bombastic. Gone is fussy ornament; in its place are sculptural columns, made from bare concrete, that echo palm fronds. The building is currently home to a French government agency – though its staircase remains one of the most sought-after locations in Paris for fashion photo shoots.
Au Printemps department store
In the heart of Paris’s shopping district, this famous, bustling department store might not be a stop you’d imagine on an architectural tour – but it’s worth braving the crowds for. While most shoppers head straight for the escalators and elevators, they’re missing a real gem: the stunning art deco staircase.
This staircase is pure magic, with marble, mirrors, graceful metalwork and light dancing everywhere. At its top, a roof terrace offers a breathtaking view of Paris; crane your neck to admire the magnificent stained-glass window on level six from above. The flat blocks of color, created through layers of delicate glass, paint a vivid picture of Paris in the springtime.
Musée des Arts Décoratifs
The next stop is the Musée des Arts Décoratifs on rue de Rivoli. This is the beating heart of art deco in Paris, thanks to the site’s ties to the 1925 Exposition Internationale that lent its name to the style.
Inside, the Lanvin rooms – created by Armand-Albert Rateau for fashion designer Jeanne Lanvin in the early 1920s – are a true showstopper. Imagine stepping into a world where silk hangings in that unmistakable “Lanvin blue” drape the walls, with bronze furniture and gleaming marble fittings creating a boudoir and bedroom that positively drip with luxe detail.
Prince de Galles Mosaic suites
Back at the Prince de Galles, guests who book the art deco tour are guaranteed one of the hotel’s eight art deco Mosaic suites. Each with a bedroom and separate living space, these extravagant lodgings are all polished Macassar wood and black marble, with the bathrooms featuring black-and-gold mosaic tiles that are in themselves works of art.
Insider tip: If you ask nicely, you might get a private tour of the Lalique penthouse suite, the hotel’s crowning glory. This is the kind of accommodation where the Eiffel Tower is perfectly framed even through the windows of the bathroom.
Add in two terraces with panoramic views, a dining room with a direct line of view to Sacré-Coeur and all the additional Parisian skyline you could possibly want. This is basically art-deco Versailles – with wi-fi.
How to make it happen
The Prince de Galles’ Unlocking Art Deco tour is a decadent treat. The three-hour tour is included with a Mosaic suite reservation, from €2400 (US$2795) for two people per night (including breakfast à la carte).
