Buenos Aires

Meander through the maze of narrow lanes lined with elaborate mausoleums in what must be the world's most ostentatious necropolis. This 'city of the dead' was BA's first public cemetery, though it quickly became exclusive; some of Argentina's most illustrious historical figures are buried here, including Eva Perón ('Evita'). Myriad styles decorate the crumbling tombs, from art nouveau and art deco to neoclassical and neo-Gothic. There are also wonderfully flamboyant statues to discover, so pay your respects to Evita before getting lost among the marble angels.

Nothing captures the essence of Buenos Aires like the sensual and melancholy tango, and no visit to the city is complete without experiencing tango in some form. To experience it in its most authentic form, head to a milonga (dance event), held at dozens of venues. Tango classes are often held before milongas, so take part – or just watch, but don't look too long at that handsome stranger across the room; a stare is an invitation to dance, and you could be breaking some hearts!

In Buenos Aires, fútbol isn't just a game. The national pastime inspires near-religious passion in porteños, clearing the streets and sending spectators into fits of ecstasy and anguish as they huddle around TV screens or brave the explosive stadium crowds. The atmosphere is particularly boisterous (read: out of control) when River Plate and arch-rivals Boca Juniors face off during the much-anticipated Superclásico games. The tension is palpable, and for two hours on a Sunday afternoon here, nothing else really matters.

Believe the hype: Argentine beef is some of the best in the world. Eat, drink and be merry at one of BA's hundreds of parrillas (steakhouses), where a leisurely meal begins with waiters pouring malbec and carving generous slabs of prime beef. Parrillas run the gamut from neighborhood joints to classic establishments to upscale restaurants, so there's a price for every pocket. There are even closed-doors restaurants offering asado (barbecue) experiences. One thing is certain: you can expect some of the best meat you've ever eaten.

Founded in 1580, Plaza de Mayo is the stage on which many of the dramatic events in Argentina's history were played out, from military bombings in 1955 to Evita's emotional speeches to massive union demonstrations (still going today). Most of the time, however, it's a peaceful place where families feed pigeons. It's where you'll find the Casa Rosada presidential palace, which you can visit for free on weekends. If you're here on a Thursday afternoon, you might witness Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo: mothers peacefully marching for social-justice causes.

The neighborhood of San Telmo is a beguiling mix of faded grandeur and bohemian spirit. The elegant belle-epoque architecture and crumbling villas are throwbacks to the district's 19th-century heyday, before yellow fever and cholera sent the aristocratic masses to higher ground. Today, you can wander along Defensa or Balcarce streets toward leafy Parque Lezama, taking in picturesque vistas of romantic facades and drooping balconies as you window-shop for antiques. The neighborhood continues to evolve, but much of the old-world atmosphere remains. Come on Sunday for the famous street fair.

From the city's leafy northern suburbs to the abandoned warehouses of its gritty, southernmost edge, Buenos Aires has become a canvas for talented street artists from all over the world, who come here to paint in collaboration with Argentina's own graffiti superstars. Little pockets of the city are home to a particular concentration of murals – explore them on a guided tour with Graffitimundo. Keep your eyes open as you walk around Palermo, Colegiales and San Telmo; you might even see the city's next masterpiece being created.

It's official: Buenos Aires is bike friendly! With an extensive network of cycle lanes and a free city bike program, there is no better way to explore the city than on two wheels. But if the thought of taking on the traffic makes you nervous, fear not. A bike tour of Buenos Aires – especially around Palermo's green parks – is a great way to experience cycling in this vehicle-dominated city. Here, miles of safe bike lanes exist, and you can enjoy the green of grass instead of the gray of concrete.

In the shadow of Puerto Madero's shiny skyscrapers, an incredible nature reserve emerged from an area of abandoned, marshy wasteland. These days the remarkable park is home to hundreds of birds, colorful butterflies, turtles and iguanas. Take a walk along the paths that loop up past the coastline of the Río de la Plata. Amid the refreshing river breezes, peace and sense of space it's hard to believe you're just a 20-minute walk from the city center.

Folk music emanates from the outdoor stage, local couples take to the streets to perform the traditional chacarera and chamamé folk dances, and food stalls dish out hearty country dishes such as locro (a meaty stew), deep-fried empanadas and humitas (a kind of tamale). This is Feria de Mataderos, an authentic celebration of Argentine country traditions. You might also see gauchos demonstrating their horse-riding skills by playing sortija, a game where they stand in their saddles and ride at full speed to spear a tiny dangling ring. Catch it on Sundays.