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Zimbabwe
A journey to Zimbabwe will take you through an attractive patchwork of landscapes, from highveld, balancing boulders and flaming msasa trees, to laidback towns, lush mountains and lifeblood rivers. Here you can spot the Big Five (leopard, lion, rhino, elephant and buffalo) in its national parks, discover World Heritage–listed archaeological sites and stand in awe of one of the natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls.
Throughout its past two decades of governmental mismanagement, political violence and economic disaster, Zimbabwe continued to welcome visitors with the same grace and politeness that they were famed for. And as a result those who did travel here usually left insisting that that the country was hands down one of the safest, friendliest and most spectacular countries on the continent.
In 2017 the post-Mugabe dawn that millions of Zimbabweans longed for finally arrived, and their excitement of what the future may hold is still palpable to all who visit.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Zimbabwe.
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Victoria Falls National Park
Here on the Zimbabwe side of the falls you're in for a real treat. Some two-thirds of Victoria Falls are located here, including the main falls themselves, which flow spectacularly year-round. The walk is along the top of the gorge, following a path with various viewing points that open up to extraordinary front-on panoramas of these world-famous waterfalls. One of the most dramatic spots is the westernmost point known as Cataract View (just before you reach the David Livingstone statue), where steps lead down to outlooks of Devil's Cataract, a dramatic view of the falls often accompanied by a rainbow prism effect. Heading back eastwards takes you past multiples viewing points of the main falls, where you'll witness the drama with full 180 degree views. Another track leads to the aptly named Danger Point, where a sheer, unfenced 100m drop-off will rattle your nerves. From there, you can follow a side track for a view of the Victoria Falls Bridge. If you're here in April, you'll need to hire a raincoat and umbrella just inside the gates – you will get soaked! During a full moon (and just before and after), the park opens again in the evenings in order for visitors to see the amazing lunar rainbow; tickets cost an extra US$10. The falls are located around 1km from the town centre (just before the border to Zambia) crossing, so you can easily walk here. Payment is accepted in US dollars, euro, pound and rand, as well as Mastercard and Visa. At the entrance there's a series of detailed information boards, and a decent souvenir shop selling a good selection of cultural books. Here there's also the quality Rainforest Cafe, which is a good spot for food or a drink.
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National Heroes' Acre
The grandiose obelisk of Heroes' Acre, overlooking the town, is straight out of Pyongyang, yet lies just 7km from Harare. Designed with the assistance of North Korea, it serves as a sombre memorial to the forces who died during the Second Chimurenga. There's a giant socialist-realism statue of the unknown soldier (actually three soldiers), flanked by bronze friezes depicting stirring war victories. Entrance is free, but there's an admission fee for the interesting museum dedicated to the resistance movement. The creator of the monument is Pyongyang-based Mansudae Art Studio (the only organisation authorised to produce sculptures of North Korean leaders), which is rumoured to have finished two 30ft-tall sculptures of Robert Mugabe that will be unveiled upon his passing.
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Natural History Museum
Zimbabwe's largest and best museum makes for an essential visit. Set over three floors, it offers a great overview of the country's natural, anthropological and geological history. Its highlight is its taxidermy display, which includes a monster elephant, shot 160km south from here. There's also an impressive collection of gemstones, showcasing the country's astounding wealth of natural resources. At its centre is a collection of live snakes, including black mambas and cobras. Its website is worth a browse as it has some fantastic info on archaeological sites in the region. There's also a good book selection for sale.
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National Gallery of Zimbabwe
In the southeast corner of Harare Gardens, this lovely gallery has multiple spaces exhibiting a mix of contemporary local, African and international artists. Shows change monthly, with a mix of paintings, photography, stone sculptures, masks and carvings. The attached shop is an excellent place to stock up on crafts and books on Zimbabwean art, before coffee and cake in the cafe. There's an open-air Shona sculpture garden outside.
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Jafuta Heritage Centre
This impressive little museum details the cultural heritage of Zimbabwe's indigenous ethnic groups. There's good background information on the Shona, Ndebele, Tonga and Lozi people, as well as fascinating artefacts, jewellery and costumes. Find the time to peruse its excellent selection of reading material. The curator here (Ephraim) can read your fortune by throwing bones (US$20).
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Khami Ruins
Just 22km from Bulawayo, the Unesco World Heritage–listed Khami Ruins may not have the grandeur of Great Zimbabwe, but it's an impressive archaeological site nonetheless. The second largest stone monument built in Zimbabwe, Khami was developed between 1450 and 1650 as the capital of the Torwa dynasty, and abandoned in the 19th century with the arrival of Ndebele. It's spread over a 2km site in a peaceful natural setting overlooking the Khami Dam. The complex series of walled structures generally follows the same aspects of Great Zimbabwe, but possesses its own features and expressions in the patterns and elaborate decorations. It has the longest decorated wall in the entire sub-region, while archaeological remains of Spanish and Ming porcelain found at the ruins provide evidence of a historic trade link; some of these remains are on display at Bulawayo’s Natural History Museum. At its entrance is a small museum displaying artefacts, where you can also pick up a copy of the highly recommended booklet on the ruins (US$5) by Rod Barrett. It's especially handy given there's no signage at each site; hiring a guide is also recommended for this reason. Tour operators run day trips from Bulawayo, or take a taxi (US$20 one way). Don't expect to be blown away by the site; instead it has a more relaxed, subtle and mysterious beauty about it.
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World's View (Malindidzimu Hill)
One of Zimbabwe's most breathtaking sites, the aptly named World's View takes in epic 360-degree views of the park. The peacefulness up here is immense, taking on a spiritual quality that makes it clear why it's so sacred to the Ndebele people. It's also the burial spot of Rhodesia's founder, Cecil Rhodes, whose grave sits, somewhat controversially, atop between two boulders. Downhill from Rhodes' grave is the Shangani River Memorial. Erected in 1904, it pays tribute to Allan Wilson and his soldiers who were wiped out by General Mtjaan and his 30,000 Ndebele warriors when attempting to take over the territory. The landscape up here is surreal with giant boulders covered in multicoloured lichen, clumps of hair-like grass and rainbow-striped lizards flitting between the rocks, all of which make it feel like another planet. The entry fee also gains you access to the Pomongwe and Nswatugi rock art caves.
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Bulawayo Railway Museum
Whether you're a train enthusiast or not, Bulwayo's Railway Museum rarely disappoints. Its passionate curator, Gordon Murray, will take you on a tour of the place, where you'll get a fascinating insight into the colonial history of the country through Bulawayo's extensive railway network. There are some wonderful Rhodesian Railways steam engines and carriages to clamber aboard, including the Jack Tar (1889), the first train to cross the Victoria Falls Bridge. The tour takes around 1½ hours, visiting several 19th-century steam engines, diesel and electric trains, and the carriage that carried Cecil Rhodes' body to his burial site in Matobo. There's also a hand-pump trolley you can give a whirl outside. The main building is the former Shamva train station relocated here in 1972. There are some interesting books for sale, and visitors receive a collectable memento.
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Chilojo Cliffs
In addition to wildlife, another of Gonarezhou's major drawcards are its majestic Chilojo Cliffs. These spectacular red-and-white banded sandstone columns are unlike anything else you'll find in the country. The best view is from above the clifftop, resembling a mini grand canyon with its rock formations combined with endless vistas over the Runde River and extending plains. It's also impressive from below as it stretches 30km across ways.
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