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If you visit only one island outside of Efate, this should be it. Tanna is an extraordinary place with the world's most accessible active volcano, sublime secluded beaches and some of Vanuatu's most intriguing traditional village life.

Apart from the fuming, furious Mt Yasur, the landscape features undisturbed rainforests, coffee plantations, mountains, hot springs, blue holes and waterfalls, with some areas formed into marine and wildlife sanctuaries by local chiefs. Kastom is important in traditional villages, where all natural phenomena have a fourth dimension of spirituality and mystique, while strange cargo cults (John Frum and Prince Philip, in particular) still hold sway in some villages.

Lenakel is the main town with a market, port, several shops and a hospital, and it’s near here that Tanna’s more upmarket accommodation is located. The volcano and most of the island's basic bungalow accommodation is about 30km southeast on the rugged cross-island road via a central fertile, dense forest, aptly called Middlebush. The ‘road’ crosses Mt Yasur’s remarkable ash plain on its way to Port Resolution.